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Replacing axle seals on a wc

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Thad in AR. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Replacing axle seals on a wc
    Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 6:31pm
I have completely disassembled my wc all but the rearend should I pull it apart and replace the seals? How hard is this to do? Also can I find a factory made cover to replace the cultivator lift?
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Gary in Texas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary in Texas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 7:22pm
Call Brenda over at Sandy Lake, she will price the seals, gaskets and may have the cover for removing the mechanical lift.
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HagerAC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HagerAC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 7:27pm
On my 1934 WC which i restored in 2009 I replaced the donut seals on it, and I got them through agco, they are no longer cork, but rubber now.
30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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JoeM(GA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeM(GA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 7:31pm
Thad, it's not hard, just expensive. Those big side seals are a bit over $50 each now.
If it were me, I'd go ahead and do it now before you paint
Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB
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JM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 7:48pm
I am resealing mine now, I got mine from Sandy lake. I am replacing the big donut hub seals, both inner axle seals wich seal up the brake drum are from the differential side and the final drive side. When these leak it drips out the holes at the bottom of the axle knees where the hub axles are mounted. Every WC I have seen leaks there.There are cork gaskets between the big round bull gear plate and the cast housing and a gasket for the final drive cover that holds the donut seal. One of the inner seals requires a steel adapter because the hole back in the axle housing is about 2 inches bigger than the new seals. They are $60 a side, donuts $50 a side, I think I spent a little over $200 but I am making the $60 adapters myself. All these parts are probably about $300. If you are going to restore and paint it is definately worth the money. You will regret not doing it after you paint and oil is running all over it causing it to lift your paint, I know from experiance. I find it amazing that agco still offers parts for 70 year old tractors. JM
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Thad in AR. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 8:03pm

Thanks for the input guys. I already had oil leaking out those holes below the brakes when I bought the tractor but I just wasn't sure where it came from. My I&T manual with 96 pages and covers 10 different tractors needs to be replaced with an original with more detail.

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JoeM(GA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeM(GA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 8:24pm
Thad, check your mail
Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB
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JM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 8:35pm
Go to agcos web site you can look up the part diagrams and part numbers.
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WC7610 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WC7610 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 9:23pm
Another vote for Sandy Lake.
 
Also, save your tin retainer as the new ones I got were slightly larger and wouldn't fit.
 
Thanks



Most Bad Government has grown out of Too Much Government- Thomas Jefferson
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B26240 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote B26240 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb 2011 at 7:01am
Thad ,The manual calls for 250 wt oil in the finaldrives-- I couldnt find any so I made some thick stuff using no2 grease diluting with 90wt gear oil.  HTH Mark
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lee1995 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lee1995 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2023 at 9:03pm
Do you have a part number for the seal that goes between the differential and the brakes? I can’t seem to find it at any auto parts stores because it’s such an odd size.
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Mikez View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mikez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2023 at 10:11pm
Welcome to the forum lee. We have lots of parts for these tractors. I’ll take a look for seals
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PaulB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2023 at 6:34am
I still have a few NOS seals available that are the large OD that do not require the spacer
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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