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stucktruck 
Bronze Level
Joined: 22 Dec 2012
Location: CA
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 Topic: Replacement Hydrolic hoses
Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 11:03am |
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I am new here. If I am posting in the wrong section or am in violation of forum rules in any way please forgive me.
I am trying to find a replacement hydraulic hose for the clutch on a mid 60's Allis dozer
I will update at lunch with the speciffic modle# and pictures of the line and tractor. All of the local hydrolic shops cant find one end of the line to make a new hose. it is a 2 bolt o-ring flange that connects the line to the drivers(right) side of the ??block/heat exchanger??.
Any help would be appreciated, I have searched for hours online already and found nothing. Thank you
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Mrgoodwrench
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Joined: 03 Apr 2011
Location: CHICORA PA
Points: 2081
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Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 11:09am |
not an expert but i change alot of hyd hoses at work might be able to advise on the hose with pics. welcome to the forum lots of great guys here and a few nut jobs too!lol you are posting exactly where you should be
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There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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Coke-in-MN
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Afton MN
Points: 41211
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Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 11:20am |
Try MINPAR webwite or do like I have in the past :improvise , take old end and braze a fitting onto it to take a hose fitting that is easy to find. I have had hoses made up in shorter lengths so the wear or damaged area can be fixed without replacing a long expensive hose. I also have made hoses from bulk or old hoses that were saved but had a bad end or area where much of hose was good
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Randaleky
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Joined: 17 Aug 2011
Location: belfry, ky.
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Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 11:26am |
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HOSES ARE TRULY EXPENSIVE AND A PERSON MUST TAKE ADVANTAGE OF EVERY SITUATION. I TRY TO FIND PLACES THAT HAVE CLOSED SHOP AND BUY LEFT OVER INVENTORY.
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Kcgrain
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Joined: 24 Sep 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 767
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Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 1:12pm |
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You cant buy the ends or the hose. You have to improvise. If its the hose that goes to the cooler on the side of the engine, its 3/4 in, take a grinder and split the crimped on piece than shave the hose away carefully around the end thats stuck inside the hose with the 2 bolt flange. Its a hose barb with a crimped end compressing it to the barb. Than buy a NEW hose with the proper oposite end, than take a new 3/4 fitting put it in a chop saw and cut the bell off of the new one, slide that onto the new hose push the old barb into the new hose, than put it into the hose maker and crimp the new bell on the new hose tightining up the old fitting, and ignore what the hose guy is going to tell you, becasue the line is lo pressure and will never blow or pull apart where you fixed it. We have done it on a 745B loader,works great. DO NOT try to hose clamp it tight, wire hose will not tighten down enough to hold.
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Mrgoodwrench
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Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 1:33pm |
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local hose shops won't even do that...but some will weld your old fitting to a new pipe and build the hose from that...then they will stand behind the work
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There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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darrel in ND
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Joined: 22 Nov 2009
Location: Hebron, ND
Points: 8585
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Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 3:44pm |
 Mrgoodwrench wrote:
not an expert but i change alot of hyd hoses at work might be able to advise on the hose with pics. welcome to the forum lots of great guys here and a few nut jobs too!lol you are posting exactly where you should be |
Mr. Goodwrench! I resemble that statement! (the part about the nut job).............Or maybe that should be RESENT that statement. LOL!!! Darrel
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Kcgrain
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Joined: 24 Sep 2009
Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 4:01pm |
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There isnt enough pipe to weld to, it curves in real tight to make the fitting fit into the cooler, and personally I wouldnt trust welding or brazing even though it is lo pressure. The way its made from the factory is exactly as I described, except you cant buy a blank bell anywhere, so you have to cut it off of a new fitting. You can ship it to me if you like and we can build it, but if your in a hurry we are a long ways away from you. You wouldnt have to send the whole hose cut both ends off, and give me a length and could build it and ship it to you, will look factory, and I WILL stand behind it.
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stucktruck
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Joined: 22 Dec 2012
Location: CA
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Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 4:04pm |
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That sounds like it will work.
THANK YOU
I will post pics after Christmas of the process so anyone else can copy it later.
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5639
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Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 4:18pm |
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I've been challenged by similar situations in my projects. The 2-bolt flange can be dealt with by either cutting a block or a plate to cover the flange area, then drilling locating holes for fluid passage and bolts, then chucking the plate or block into a lathe and cutting the O-ring recess with an appropriately shaped cutter.
THEN... thread the plate for an appropriate hydraulic or pipe thread, and use a custom-made hydraulic hose that uses standard threads to match.
When clearance is tight, using a block, rather than a plate, works well. Drill halfway into the block on the O-ring's axis, and then drill in from one of the sides, to intersect the other drilling... then thread the side for a standard hydraulic fitting. Not OEM, but works very well.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Kcgrain
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Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 4:24pm |
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personally, Id do both hose right away, if one went the other isnt far behind it, and it is the lifeblood of the tranny.
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Eric B
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
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Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 5:34pm |
Kcgrain wrote:
You cant buy the ends or the hose. You have to improvise. If its the hose that goes to the cooler on the side of the engine, its 3/4 in, take a grinder and split the crimped on piece than shave the hose away carefully around the end thats stuck inside the hose with the 2 bolt flange. Its a hose barb with a crimped end compressing it to the barb. Than buy a NEW hose with the proper oposite end, than take a new 3/4 fitting put it in a chop saw and cut the bell off of the new one, slide that onto the new hose push the old barb into the new hose, than put it into the hose maker and crimp the new bell on the new hose tightining up the old fitting, and ignore what the hose guy is going to tell you, becasue the line is lo pressure and will never blow or pull apart where you fixed it. We have done it on a 745B loader,works great. DO NOT try to hose clamp it tight, wire hose will not tighten down enough to hold. |
This is very good advice.....the reason no hyd. hose shop suggests it is because they figure there's not enough money in it for them. I've had the same procedure for a hose on a Fiat-Allis FL9, and it works great. There's a lot of wisdom in this whole column  .
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Ian Beale
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Joined: 03 Oct 2011
Location: New South Wales
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Posted: 23 Dec 2012 at 4:36am |
Coke,
What I've been told is that brass braze won't stand modern hydraulic pressures and that silver solder is the go.
Brass would be OK for low pressure though.
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