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Bolivar Boy 
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Joined: 27 Dec 2011
Location: wooster, ohio
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 Topic: rear wheel spacing for plowing
Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 9:32am |
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will be plowing for the first time this spring with a d19 non slider rear rims with a sc 4x16 plow. would like to hit the field ready to go but am concerned about rear wheel spacing. am aware of a previous thread describing measurements from inside tire to center of hitch assy but am unable to locate the thread. really dont want to try and adjust rims in the field. tires are 16.9x34's. thankyou in advance. tp studer. wooster,ohio.
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Roddo
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Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 9:40am |
No experience with a 19, but on my 45 I have always sucked them all the way in.
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XT in pa
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Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 10:39am |
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On my 7045 its 28". From center of tractor to inside of tire with 4-16
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190XT,D17and 7045
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bradley6874
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Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 10:59am |
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Ok see if i can explain this measure from the center of the hitch on the plow to leading edge of the front point and land side add 16 " to that measurment because you said 4 16 s and thats what BOTH rear wheels need to be set at that from the center of the tractor to the inside edge of the tires front and back
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 12:26pm |
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Its nicest if the center of the plow is aligned with the center of the tractor. That requires the inside sidewall of the right tires to be 32" from the tractor center. And for symmetry the left tires that same distance to the left. Then if the two rears have the same traction the tractor pulls straight. But usually the furrow tire grips better than the tire on the stover and that makes the centering less critical. It handy that the furrow wall absorbs the side thrust of the front wheel.
Its more important that the center of the plow be 32" from the inside sidewall so the front bottom cuts its rated 16" width.
Plow center to the left of the tractor center adds to the side thrust of the front wheels. Its probably better if the plow center is a bit to the right of the tractor center so straighten the tractor thrust. Locking the differential makes centering the load far less critical.
Gerald J.
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ALinIL
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Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 1:59pm |
Bol- The 32 will work but is usually what is used for a 14" bottom. The basic starting point is 36 and will need to be adjusted pending on bottom type and ground conditions.
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Rfdeere
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Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 3:35pm |
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Al is correct. Inside of furrow tire to tractor center point should be 36 inches for a 4-16" plow.
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 4:55pm |
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That 4" right of center would balance some of the unbalanced traction.
When I first pulled my AC 4x18 2000 monoframe plow with my 4020 I probably had the 18.4-34s on 60" centers and so about 42" sidewall to side wall. The hitch on the 2000 is very adjustable so I just pulled it as is. 11" off center. Differential look took care of nearly all side thrust and is handy on the 4020, released by tapping a brake pedal.
After I found the front wheels in the air in my damper ground I quit plowing for the day, added all the front weights I had, and took the front bottom off and moved the hitch to move the plow frame to the right 16" so then my thrust was more to the right but the differential lock still took care of it. I soon added a ROPS and that limited the wheels to 64" centers or 46" between them so the tractor center was 23" from the tire side wall, but the plow center was 27" over. I plowed more ground and did a better job with 5.5 mph and 3x16 than I did at 3.3 mph and 4x16 so I left it that way. Haven't plowed in probably 8 years, went no till.
Gerald J.
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Lonn
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Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 6:09pm |
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If you are using your diff lock to pull straight I would think your fuel usage would be higher than needed. You should be able to pull it straight without diff lock. On my 7050 with 4 x 18 monoframe I set the wheels at 31" from inside sidewall to center of tractor. Still not satisfied with its draft yet so next time I'm gonna look at the plow hitch and tail wheel adjustment to try to get an easier pull. Book for 4x18 says set wheels at 30" to 31".
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Dipstick In
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Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 6:21pm |
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I just always figured 1 and a half times the width of a bottom plus maybe a couple of inches for steerage slop amd it seemed to work!
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 8:15pm |
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I think differential lock should lower fuel consumption because it straightens the thrust so the front wheel isn't pushing sideways in the furrow.
Gerald J.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 9:48pm |
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It also eliminates some % of slippage. I was plowing with 4-14's on a 3020 one fall and the neighbor couldn't figure out how I was getting through the tough wet spot. He had a big Case with a bunch of weights hanging off. I told him it was easy, step on this pedal. I couldn't make a round without it.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 29 Feb 2012 at 9:49pm
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 11:53pm |
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I also found disking plowed ground that my 4020 would leap from side to side to the point I broke the muffler off. That didn't happen with the differential locked.
Gerald J.
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MI8050
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Posted: 01 Mar 2012 at 3:25am |
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For in-furrow plowing we run one of the tractors with tread spacing set at 6 feet. For any row crop work it's 5 feet.
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Dave in il
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Posted: 01 Mar 2012 at 8:35am |
Gerald, I don't remember exaxtly where we set the wheels, but the 7060 with 20.8 x 38 tires was always set "wide" 36 or 38 inch rows. The 8600 Ford was set for 30" rows for planting and cultivating and we would set the (power adjust) wheels out to plow. We pulled Deere 1450's, a 5-16 with the XT or the Ford and a 6-16 with the 7060. Both tractors had diff lock and I only remember using them for an occasional tough spot or if it was a little wet. We had an AC 5-16 that was bought new with the 1965 XT, when Dad traded for the new 1971 XT he bought the new Deere plow because it had more "trash" clearance and he said it pulled much easier. When we traded the XT for the 7060 I bought the 6-16 because I needed a plow and the price was right but it was a good match for the 7060.
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Lonn
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Posted: 01 Mar 2012 at 11:04am |
 Gerald J. wrote:
I think differential lock should lower fuel consumption because it straightens the thrust so the front wheel isn't pushing sideways in the furrow.
Gerald J.
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You shouldn't have side thrust if you are set up right. The 4x14 I pull with the D17 pulls straight and true. Something I haven't quite taken the time to get completely right with the 4x18 monoframe and 7050. That's where you would save the most fuel. If conditions are less than ideal then diff lock comes in handy but I never use it if I'm set up right and in good conditions..
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Lonn
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Posted: 01 Mar 2012 at 11:20am |
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Also if you are having side thrust that you need diff lock to straighten it out then the plow is just plain pulling harder than it needs to be. You would probably pick up a gear if it's drafting correctly. I usually don't plow much anymore myself so I've just powered through it instead with the 7050. I need to make adjustments. Easier on the plow too.
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Lonn
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Posted: 01 Mar 2012 at 11:23am |
Gerald J. wrote:
I also found disking plowed ground that my 4020 would leap from side to side to the point I broke the muffler off. That didn't happen with the differential locked.
Gerald J.
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Haven't had that problem but pulling the chisel with either the XT or 7050 in real hard ground I get that motion to the point I slow way down cause I feel like I'm gonna break something. Diff lock didn't make any difference either with that problem. Not sure if the chisel isn't level or even if that would cause it or just plain too hard or ground. All this talk is giving me spring fever. Can't wait!
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 01 Mar 2012 at 12:31pm |
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I wanted to pull the disk over 6mph because then it tosses weeds up in the air so their roots dry and they die.
Gerald J.
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Bolivar Boy
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Posted: 01 Mar 2012 at 8:42pm |
thankyou for all the responses. will try to get some action fottage for you fellows to view once the weather breaks. i haven't farmed in 10 years. sold off all our ac sc equipment and moved to town, but kept the farm land. how we cussed and discussed those 17d's. so now, im 63 and have 2 little boys (grandsons) that need to know what it means to have their hands in the soil. we had rented the farm out so its a major commitment to get back "in the game". we're picking up pieces as we go, this weekend is the kidron,ohio implement sale. right now we are as proud of this old d19 gasser as parents are of a new born. yea its gonna be a gas hog and wont have that budda drone but we will be dragging around 4x16's that those 17's could only dream about. if we are lucky enough to make a little money at the end of the season, so be it. if not, we will explain that to the boys as well. it wont break us. i'm hoping the payoff to be chapped lips, dirty little hands, the feel of pulling power, the smell of hot exhaust and fresh turned ohio soil. and just maybe a young boys desire to be out with the old men, early in the morning. thanks again for the advice regarding wheel spacing. you guys are tops ! tp studer. wooster,ohio.
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Lonn
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Posted: 02 Mar 2012 at 6:51am |
Gerald J. wrote:
I wanted to pull the disk over 6mph because then it tosses weeds up in the air so their roots dry and they die.
Gerald J.
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Use a field cultivator with quacker points (2" points). Works great and no need to go so fast and most roots were left upwards. I was always told disking much over 4 mph leaves the field ridged and rough. A disk also compacts the soil compared to a field cultivator. I pulled a 12' Miller offset disk last fall and it was painfully slow at 4 mph. But I've had the field cultivator do the same thing with the swinging back and forth. I was trying to renovate some alfalfa ground. Had to go real slow for fear of pulling the digger apart.
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