Raddle Chain Shaft Replacement

    Hello,
          The rear raddle chain shaft on my F2 decided to break right behind where the slip clutch is located and I am wondering on what's the best way to get everything apart.
    I am not sure on how to get to the two gears mounted on the shaft inside that turn the raddle chain. Would you take out the straw walkers and the screens for more access or remove the cleaning shoe and go in that way?
    I only have about 25 acres of beans to go and I am hoping this isn't going to be a major repair.

    Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.


    Thanks..

Tractorman21, did the broken shaft snap around the hole drilled in it that allows roll pin to secure slip clutch housing?
If so, for a mere 25 acre harvest~try tach welding the broken shaft back into position as near plumb as possible using a double washered bolt/locknut placed thru the shaft hole in that the two washer are placed on the outsides(each end) of the broken shaft. With a helper to hold the shaft in position, tighten the bolts lock nut while sandwiching the shaft between the bolt’s flat washer. Spin it to see alignment. Adjust shaft is needed. Tach weld 4 positions as close to outer edges of bolt hole as possible. Between tacks-Spin it, adjust it with hammer, repeat until satisfied. Then when tacks are complete, V grind out material between tacks down as close to bolt hole as possible & layer welds from inside towards outside, being mindful to adjust any Misalignment caused by welding heat/cooling draws/wharps . Don’t forget to wrap a water saturated sock/rag over shaft bearing near welds in an attempt to keep bearing from overheating beyond usefulness?

Smooth & dress shaft to accept slip clutch/drive sprocket,&chain.

If it works, then finish harvest. After harvest do proper repair as Mack suggests.

Edited by AC7060IL - 12 Nov 2022 at 12:00am

The shaft monitor sensor wheel is a regular lock collar. There is a setscrew somewhere.  Break the chain and wire it so it cannot get away from you. With the chain pulled back away from that nasty sprocket, break off the teeth with a big hammer. Now, torch off the left bearing and pull the shaft out the right side and deal with that nasty sprockets hub in a vise.

With rattle chain loose & disconnected, follow Mach & DrAllis suggestions to repair/replace rattle drive shaft/drive sprockets/bearings,,,etc.

The original rattle drive shaft snapping at roll pin is a weak area on that shaft. So a bigger QUESTION is WHY did it snap???
1. Rattle slip clutch not lubricated or properly operable?
1. Rattle chain is TOO TIGHT?
2. Too much drive chain tension?
2. Too much drive chain SLACK?
3. Another item driven by that long drive chain STOPPING?? Walkers? Clean grain elevator? Return elevator? Rear beater above walkers?

Rattle chain tension is done at side panels with LIFT TESTs. It should have enough slack that “it can be lifted up by one hand, an inch above side panel’s lower lip.” It’s tension also needs to be EVEN on both side panel lift tests. You adjust its tension up front with its idlers before EVERY SEASON & recheck “side panel lift tests” EACH DAY machine is serviced. A corn cob or any other hard item can lodge into it & create excessive tension that snap an idler “slack carriage bolt” on either side which allows idler to loosen/move & rattle chain EQUAL TENSION is compromised. “Another great Allis-Chalmers Gleaner engineering fact!” A loose rattle chain can continue to operate with none or minimum losses. Rattle chain stays intact, in time, & has enough tension from other idler not to “catch” rattle chain’s false floor & do a “can opener” move!!   So please do your DAILY lift tests.
UNTIL YOU ISOLATE why rattle chain shaft snapped, it may very well happen on NEW shaft quickly. And you’ll be right back to it again.


Edited by AC7060IL - 13 Nov 2022 at 6:52am

A&I are not my first choice, but one bought from Agco today may have come from A&I which was made in China.                    MACK

Unless you dropped the chopper I'd say your flails aren't sharp on the corners and didn't grab the green crap and pull it through. It just beat it back upward and then the walkers plugged. Good way to bend cranks and support plates under walkers. Better check.