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Raddle Chain Lubrication

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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Location: South West Mich
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    Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 6:26pm
I had an acquaintance ask me what he should "oil" the raddle chain in his straight F combine. He keeps this machine outside all year 'round and says that today they are prepping it for wheat and the chain is rusty and seems to turn"rough" Unhappy . I must admit that we have NEVER lubed a raddle chain on the A,F or the F2 that we currently run andhave never had an issue. Is there a increment in the OP manual for lubrication and if so, what lubricant? I told the guy anything light/weight and NO used crankcase oil Wink
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ryan(IN) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ryan(IN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 7:16pm
I’ve never lubed one either. But ours were always stored inside.
ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jiminnd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 8:59pm
Never lubed one on C 2 and it sat outside.
1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner)
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old farmer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote old farmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 9:53pm
We were told at service school do not oil raddle chains as they will collect dust and in the right conditions it might start a fire.
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DanWi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanWi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 10:15pm
If you have to leave one sit outside best would be to open the doors on the bottom to let trash and water out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smitty78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 4:27am
ugh, one must hope the front raddle door is off and if not it must come off to inspect the front idler rollers and clean out whatever might be living in there.  From C's to L2's, I always verify the raddle chain runs smooth and is adjusted properly by removing the drive chain and turning the drive sprocket by hand ... 1 hand.   Too tight, too loose, or bound up is begging for the dreaded broken raddle chain disaster.  If you can't turn it by hand something is wrong.  Same with the straw walker shaft as well.  If the links are rusted stuck, I wouldnt be afraid to  spray some roller chain lube on the links while turning by hand till they loosen up otherwise could be way misadjusted.  Lastly, I think they are commonly adjusted too tight ...it must turn smooth by hand.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 7:38am
Dad used to put used oil on the old E raddle using a dish soap bottle as an applicator. Totally different style links. I never oil the L2 raddles but it stays inside and I check the tension every year when I install the covers at the bottom. At mechanics school the teach would tell us used oil makes a good lube for chains because it is like graphite lube. Something like that anyhow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 1:40pm
I have oiled the F2 different times when putting away. Don't think I ever oiled the A2 in 19yrs the last 15 or so using a roller chain. F2 book says to but I don't see how it would make much difference. Mine are kept inside. Always remove front cover and clean trash out when putting away.
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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2019 at 5:53pm
OMG, this guy has more issues than a raddle chain Stern Smile !! I asked about the grain tank pertaining to rusted-out holes leading to excessive water in the raddle area and he got back with me and  said "several" but was going to Menards and grabbing some galvanized duct work and riveting in the bin floor Stern Smile
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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jul 2019 at 5:27pm
Now he said that the chain broke on 1 side and wedged into the bottom "shoe", he gave up on his wheat now, weeds have taken over.
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GM Guy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 12:48pm
Proper raddle maintenance starts at the end of the season, not at the beginning.

When done harvesting, remove the front cover(s) (yes, it dirty, windy western KS is nice in that regard, wait for a windy day and point it into the wind) and clean it all out. If we do oil, its at the end of season only, so it can sit a couple months and any extra will dry up or run off.

When getting ready to button it up to use, roll it over, set tension, ensure idlers are turning freely, put the cover on and go.

We store all of ours outside and dont have any trouble.


Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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