Question on HD 16 tranny

Good Morning.

Next project on my list of repairs will be sorting out why Reverse 1 pops out and won’t stay in. I have reviewed all the advice you passed on earlier and had a question or two.

1. To look at shift forks and be sure all bolts are tight and in place, do I need to drain the transmission fluid to take cover plate off to inspect forks and bolts?

2. As my 16 uses same oil for steering, transmission and brakes, is it possible that just draining the oil out of bottom of transmission case won’t drain 100% of the total system oil?

3. On my tractor 1,2,3 and R2 work fine. For R1 it goes in fine with normal clutch action but as soon as clutch is disengaged, it pops right out. If you try to hold it in it will shake your hand apart. I am going to take shift lever apart and look for anything out of place in the connections first.

Thank you for your thoughts on this. I do have all the manuals so that’s good.

Thank you. My manual says Brake, Steering and transmission all use common sump. Have HyTran in it right now.

you have a wet clutch/brake machine with pressure lube trans should all be same oil like you say.  i cant say for sure if you would need to drain oil to remove the side cover.   try running a tape measure down the side of trans and compare with oil level on dipstick tube.  if you do need to drain i doubt that the steering and clutch release system will all bleed out.  you either have worn engagement cogs from years of use or its possible the fork has moved on the shaft not allowing full engagement, thus kicking out.

CAL(KS) wrote: you have a wet clutch/brake machine with pressure lube trans should all be same oil like you say.  i cant say for sure if you would need to drain oil to remove the side cover.   try running a tape measure down the side of trans and compare with oil level on dipstick tube.  if you do need to drain i doubt that the steering and clutch release system will all bleed out.  you either have worn engagement cogs from years of use or its possible the fork has moved on the shaft not allowing full engagement, thus kicking out.

Thank you Cal. Good ideas. I’m pulling the gear shift lever to tighten up the flip and see if I find any smoking gun there. In my original parts manual that came with the tractor, a previous owner had underlined a couple of gear shift parts. One is a shift lock bushing. Might be something he replaced at one time. Not sure what that part does but will send pic and see if someone can tell me what this part might impact on the shifting.

that just keeps oil from leaking on the interlock plunger.  you should not be able to shift gears when the main clutch is engaged,  releases plunger when main clutch pulled out.

Thanks Cal.

Warming up here in Michigan and able to crawl under the 16 to find leak. No leaks detected around sprocket, any of the covers. All dry but oil still leaking and puddling directly under the track and under the sprocket. As I said sprocket seals and all covers are bone dry.

I can’t see between the final drive housing and rail as the bolt on rock guard is blocking my vision and it appears to be leaking down that area.

QUESTION ... Can I unbolting the rock guard from the final drive housing without splitting track. Bolted on with half s dozen bolts. It’s a crescent shaped piece of steel that protects the rail and roller.

Great and thank you Cal. Steam and power washing this weekend. Will pull the rock guard off and see what I can see..

The cap covers on the final drive on both sides of the sprocket are dry as well as the other covers above it.

No sign of a gasket or seal leak. At least in my last few inspections.

Thanks again Cal.

As hard as someone was on this tractor I would not be surprised to find a hairline crack on bottom of final drive casting.