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NickT(Ky) 
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 Topic: PTO coupler
Posted: 12 May 2015 at 8:43pm |
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I know they are designed to keep the momentum of the pto from pushing the tractor forward when you push in on the clutch, but wandering if they would work on a D-14 when using a finish mower so you could stop to shift to reverse without the mower completely stopping by letting it "free wheel". I have never used one so not totally familiar with how they operate. Thanks
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SHAMELESS
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Posted: 12 May 2015 at 8:58pm |
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what kind of a coupler is that?
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NickT(Ky)
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Posted: 12 May 2015 at 9:00pm |
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A over running coupler. Some old ford tractors would continue forward when the clutch was depressed because the mower would keep turning the pto shaft.
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DSeries4
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Posted: 12 May 2015 at 10:05pm |
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It is an over-running clutch. They will work on any tractor where the implement has a lot of momentum. When you put your foot on the clutch, the tractor's PTO will stop, but the implement will continue to spin due to it's momentum. The over-running clutch engages in one direction and clicks like a ratchet when you put your foot on the clutch.
I use one on my D17 with the rotary mower. Well worth the money. It should also work well for a D14 with a finishing mower.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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SHAMELESS
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Posted: 13 May 2015 at 12:58am |
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have never seen one...
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Burgie
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Posted: 13 May 2015 at 3:16am |
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Like Dseries4 says,well worth the money!! Sure takes the strain of the shifter when changing gears even when using the power director.
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"Burgie"
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Chuck...the Janitor
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Posted: 14 May 2015 at 8:03am |
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The PTO went out on my WD several years ago. I sprung for one before I hooked the brush mower to my new to me WD45. Correct me if im wrong, from what i understand it also helps eliminate some of the energy that travels up to the tractor as well.
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jeeping-the art of getting dirty and going broke while slowly going nowhere and taking all day to do it.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 14 May 2015 at 6:04pm |
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The ORC, on a 160 bush hog made the d-14/160 a formidable pair, as a bush-hogging machine. I cut hundreds of acres of cornstalks, as a kid, with the pair. Also used to cut hay with the pair. It's slow as a hay cutter, but it sure dried fast...
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NickT(Ky)
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Posted: 16 May 2015 at 7:11am |
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Thanks guys. I thought it would work just as Dseries4 described but wanted to hear from "experienced users" first. Gonna get one and put on the D-14.
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Hudsonator
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Posted: 16 May 2015 at 8:00am |
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The only problem I ever had running a ORC on a WD or D series, was while trying to stop and make a gear change.
If you step on the foot clutch and get the transmission in neutral with the hand clutch/PD "engaged", the orc will still spin your transmission mainshaft, because there is no resistance on it at that point.
So, you would have to wait until the transmission mainshaft stopped turning and/or bush hog came to a full stop before you could get the transmission back into gear. Pulling the hand clutch/PD after the fact won't help.
If you know you are going to change gears from a forward to reverse, make sure to idle the engine/pto down slowly with the bush hog and disengage the hand clutch/PD first before stepping on the foot clutch to change gears. The hand clutch/PD will isolate the tranny from the pto and you can change gears.
Trying to pull off a gear change on WC with ORC - is much more strategic!
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There isn't much a WC can't do.
WD's just do it better.
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DSeries4
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Posted: 16 May 2015 at 10:08am |
 Hudsonator wrote:
The only problem I ever had running a ORC on a WD or D series, was while trying to stop and make a gear change.
If you step on the foot clutch and get the transmission in neutral with the hand clutch/PD "engaged", the orc will still spin your transmission mainshaft, because there is no resistance on it at that point.
So, you would have to wait until the transmission mainshaft stopped turning and/or bush hog came to a full stop before you could get the transmission back into gear. Pulling the hand clutch/PD after the fact won't help.
If you know you are going to change gears from a forward to reverse, make sure to idle the engine/pto down slowly with the bush hog and disengage the hand clutch/PD first before stepping on the foot clutch to change gears. The hand clutch/PD will isolate the tranny from the pto and you can change gears.
Trying to pull off a gear change on WC with ORC - is much more strategic! |
I don't know what kind of over running clutch you are using, but it is not doing its job. With mine, I do not have to wait for the bush hog to stop and also do not have to idle down the tractor to shift gears. I can do everything as if there was nothing attached to the back of the tractor. Putting your foot on the clutch, the ORC will allow the bush hog to free wheel while you stop and/or shift gears.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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HudCo
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Posted: 16 May 2015 at 10:24am |
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any of those things like brush hogs should have a over running clutch just because it is easyer on all parts from the blades ahead even with iptos
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 16 May 2015 at 10:50am |
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Have bush hogged with WD&WD45 for over 40yrs with no problem.Only throttle down to make maneuvering around trees etc easier.Shift 2nd to reverse back and forth all day long by kicking out hand clutch.There is no grinding or clashing unless tractor is still rolling when the gear change happens.Never had an over riding clutch.Never been pushed by the chopper.Stepping on foot clutch only messes with pto driveline.Not a positive.So simple my wife has been doing it for 30yrs.This method even worked fine on my uncles D17 a couple years ago but that hand clutch and gear lever are more awkward to operate.It makes no sense to use the foot clutch to me....but that's just me.
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Hudsonator
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Posted: 16 May 2015 at 11:05am |
DSeries4 wrote:
I don't know what kind of over running clutch you are using, but it is not doing its job. With mine, I do not have to wait for the bush hog to stop and also do not have to idle down the tractor to shift gears. I can do everything as if there was nothing attached to the back of the tractor. Putting your foot on the clutch, the ORC will allow the bush hog to free wheel while you stop and/or shift gears.
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I've had several different types of ORCs over the years, they all did what I described on my WD/D tractors. In fact, I wasted a crap-ton of money buying different ORC clutches to get rid of the problem. The only explanation I might have is that your trans may have more inherent resistance than the ones in my tractors. Just as soon as I slip mine into neutral with the orc free-wheeling, the trans will start turning - not at full speed - but enough to keep it from not going into the next gear without clashing. If I break the torque with the hand clutch/PD first, no problem. So, consider yourself lucky - the situation is not universal.
Edited by Hudsonator - 16 May 2015 at 11:06am
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There isn't much a WC can't do.
WD's just do it better.
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TimCNY
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Posted: 16 May 2015 at 12:23pm |
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Ever since I had the problem with the hand clutch not working (thinking it is the snap ring issue) and the PTO leaking on the WD45, I've had the sneaking suspicion that both problems may well have been prevented by using an ORC with the Woods 6' bush hog I was running. That thing chewed up and spit out buckthorn trees with 4" diameter trunks. Hardly grunted. But, I knew I was pushing it too hard.
I'm (hopefully) getting both problems repaired next week. And I'll have the ORC before I get the tractor back.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 16 May 2015 at 1:37pm |
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What ever you do, make SURE the PTO shaft has enough travel to let the implement raise up all the way. At least on any 3 point equipment, adding the length of the OR clutch can cause serious damage to the output shaft on the tractor if the mower shaft runs out of travel.
The only way the ORC can take any wear or stress off your tractor is if you have been using the tractor brakes to try and stop the mower from turning.
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