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Proper Weighting of WD45

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BillinAlberta View Drop Down
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    Posted: 15 Jun 2019 at 3:24pm
I put 3pt arms on my WD45 and hooked up my drum mower(Kuhn PZ 170).
The front end is very light and I can see it doing wheelies in my hills.
  Is there a chart or recommendation on how much to weight the front end in order to compensate for various loads on the hitch? The operators manual is sketchy at best.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2019 at 3:46pm
Keep adding weight until you think it is enough for your terrain and conditions.
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TimCNY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2019 at 4:05pm
May not be a possibility for you, but I just put the bucket back on the loader and add weight (big rocks) to that. FWIW.
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BillinAlberta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BillinAlberta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2019 at 6:03pm
No loader on this old girl so rocks aren't an option.
Just a loader itself usually adds enough to keep most things down.

I usually follow the "guess and by gosh " method Dr Allis Smile
In the absence of anything else that is what will happen.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote acd17toy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2019 at 7:04pm


  There are a couple of options for adding weight to the front end.   One front wheel weights will add about 180 lbs.  Stack weights [many dollars needed] you can add as many as you need to keep font end on the ground.  Just the front wheel weights made a big difference on my WD45 with a 9 ft snap coupler rear blade on it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dusty MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2019 at 7:08pm
My dad bought one of the last WD's with a 3-14 bottom mounted plow. All the tires were loaded including the front ones.

Dusty
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WF owner View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2019 at 7:23pm
If you want inexpensive weight, you can use liquid ballast (calcium-chloride, rim guard, antifreeze, etc.) in the front tires.
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Lonn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2019 at 10:19pm
I suppose it's not the same but when i used to tractor pull, for every 1000 pounds I put on the back I would put about 300 pounds out front. The Dr's way sounds like the sensible way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frnkeore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2019 at 10:42pm
There is a formula for counter balancing impliments but you have to know the weight of the compliment and how far back from the rear axle the center of the additional weight is.

Your rear wheels are a fulcrum point and it doesn't matter what the rear wheel weight is, its only a pivot point. But, you can look at it this way.....
If you know about what the compliment weights. Measure how long it is from the axle(inches). Divide by 2, then divide that number, in to the wheel base and that will give you the leverage ratio. Divide that number, into the impliment weight and that's approx the front weight you need to have the same front weight as before the impliment was raised.

If you don't have PS. You can take advantage here and get easier steering with less weight on the front.

Learn your front weight also and you can do better estimates. I would keep about 500 lb on the front, with manual steering.

Front weights and calcium will give about 460 lb max, with 7.50's.

Edited by frnkeore - 15 Jun 2019 at 10:48pm
Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70
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BillinAlberta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BillinAlberta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2019 at 10:47pm
Some good advice here.Thanks 
Somehow I forgot about loading the tires with fluid(brain fart)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 2019 at 5:34am

When you go the cheap route with calcium cloride, start saving the money you would have spent for cast iorn weights, you’ll need it when it comes time to buy new rims. Others will say they’ve never had a problem. It’s not IF your rims will rust when filling the tires with SALT water, but when.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere
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Lonn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 2019 at 6:04am
Change the valve stems every two years and you won't have a lot of problems with rusted out rims. Also, I keep a note pad for each tractor to record oil changes and any maintenance and repairs including every time I changed the valve stems. Started doing that a few years ago.

Edited by Lonn - 16 Jun 2019 at 6:04am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alberta Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 2019 at 8:41am
With your hills, Bill, I'd go with front wheel weights or "loaded" front tires to keep the weight as low down as possible.  Weighted wheels won't increase steering effort as much as front frame weight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frnkeore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 2019 at 9:03am
I suggested calcium because you get more weight for your buck. I've been using 10% alcohol in my my fronts but, you loose about 3 lb per gallon that way. If you can afford it, Rim Gaurd is the way to go but, a year ago, it was $4 a gallon and you can't buy it, they have to install it.

I don't see many front weights for AC wheels. My D17 wheels aren't drilled for them either.
Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 2019 at 11:16pm
The cheezy, but effective way, is to weld up a bracket to hold a 55gal plastic drum up front and fill it with water... or steel scraps...  yeah, that's what I did with my forklift.  Added advantage, is that if you forget to disengage the power director, and have lots of inertia on the PTO, the barrel will act as a hydraulically-buffered bumper...
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ranger43 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2019 at 5:33am
Nothing wrong with calcium. I'm still confused about this whole anti-calcium thing. We have a 170 and an old David Broun 990 that we bought new never had rim issues like people describe. When we change tires or replace tires we clean up the rims change the valve stems and go. Those tractors are 50 yeas old and were used in manure on the dairy for 35 years. sure if you ignore a leak for 25 years you may have an issue
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