power shift question

Got my 8030 in the shop to narrow tires up for planting and oil started running or might I say gushing from the bell housing. We had it out during winter twice to run the generator and it spat a tinny bit. It is a 2wd, 1983. It appeared to be trans fluid and leaked worse when moving the tractor. Yesterday I split the tractor. It does seem relevant it is coming from the transmision. What I am wondering is there some sort or premature bearing failure inside the front housing of the trans causing it to leak, or is it most likly just the seal leaking? There is very minimal in and out play in the input shaft and no side to side play. Any input would be greatly appreiciated. Thanks.

I'm thinking every tractor I saw getting that seal had something else wrong. Usually something wrong with the torque limiter throwing unit out of balance. I'm thinking the only ones that got a bearing had shaft play. Check the pilot bushing. I've seen that be an issue. I'm thinking the only later AC's that didn't have a pilot bushing or bearing had power directors instead of power shifts. Could have that wrong but there is too many bell housing contents of too many other brands going through my head to keep it all perfectly straight. I think every IH tractor made (706-3788 at least) gets the live pto input replaced in its entirety everytime they get split so it coulld be worse. Also check the engine main bearings for too much play (from the outside with a bar gently at the flywheel) aand the crank dampner. For what its worth, a dealer who sold alot of these tractors for an eastern dealer told me the input shafts to the power shift don't tolerate vibation from things getting out of alignment, the input bearing then fails, next is a bad power shift. Enjoy

At a minimum, (when replacing the input shaft seal) if the big nut hasn't loosened and hasn't sheared off the locking tab, take a center punch and make a stake mark on the inner circle of the nut where the slotted keyway is on the threaded nose of the clutch housing, so the nut cannot ever back off tension. Down the road when the trans needs to be worked on all you do it split the nut right there with a sharp chisel to disassemble. Also when sliding the new seal over the input shaft, wrap the shafts splines with good electrical tape like a barber pole (one layer) starting away from the end of the shaft and spiroling towards the shafts end with minimum overlap. Lube the tape with oil and slide your new seal over the tape and remove the tape when done. This protects the seal from damage from the splines. Sounds like new TL disc and pilot bushing in the flywheel are in order.

$60/hour is probably the low end for dealership rates. It's $75 at the local CaseIH dealer and that was a year or 2 ago.

That big nut coming off is a catastrophy.  It created a $14K repair bill on my 8070 transmission, and that nut was really the only problem.  The rest of the components were only damaged by the nut backing off.