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Post pics of your drawbar setups |
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Ashaman ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 03 Feb 2014 Location: Elbert, CO Points: 134 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 04 Jul 2015 at 11:40am |
So neither of my WDs have the original snap coupler installed. I'm not sure what's left from it and what was added/removed, but both of them have three-point conversions. The runner, the '50, has what appears to be a Saginaw County Tractor three-point on it. My question is where would I anchor/connect the drawbar? As I understand it, the drawbar is supposed to be anchored where the snap coupler is/used to be, and then it's just held up and stabilized by the drawbar mount. I don't see anything under the tractor to anchor my drawbar to.
Hopefully these pics shed a little light on the subject. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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- Brian
'54 WD (wife's grandfather's - resto?) '50 WD (new workhorse - gets used!) |
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dustinmo ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Auxvasse, MO Points: 2187 |
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all you are missing is the clevice for the front of the drawbar, it has a hole on the front to pin to the 2 ears on the tractor and a hole for the drawbar
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Jim Hancock ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
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Hi Ashman.
The 2 ears hanging down in front that a pin goes through is where the snap coupler bell would go or the old style drawbar hitch attaches to. At the back where the drawbar rests on, there is a bail that's different than this set up, but it has two arms with a fork on the end of each arm and a hole a couple of inches or so from the end and they fasten up to the curved ears that has the holes in them. So, in short, you're missing the snap coupler bell and the drawbar bail that holds the drawbar up. Hope this give you a better idea of the what-n-why. Have a good 4th.
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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Ashaman ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 03 Feb 2014 Location: Elbert, CO Points: 134 |
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So there is such a critter. Is it AC specific or is that something that's fairly universal (i.e., available at Tractor Supply or something)?
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- Brian
'54 WD (wife's grandfather's - resto?) '50 WD (new workhorse - gets used!) |
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Jim Hancock ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
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Dustin's on it, too.
The frame that's there will work for holding up the drawbar as well.
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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Jim Hancock ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
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AC specific, as far as I know.
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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Ashaman ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 03 Feb 2014 Location: Elbert, CO Points: 134 |
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Hmm, okay. Anyone have pics of it? Wonder if one could fab up a cross adapter to pin in both ways.
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- Brian
'54 WD (wife's grandfather's - resto?) '50 WD (new workhorse - gets used!) |
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Fred in Pa ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Hanover Pa. Points: 9210 |
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He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead. If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED. |
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Jim Hancock ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
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Is this tractor replumbed with 2 way hydraulics?
I see a hose in the top center of the pic looking from the front to the rear that might be a return line into the sump. If so, could you post a pic of that setup, please? Thanks.
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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Brian G. NY ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2259 |
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The drawbar and clevis Fred pictures is slightly different than the WD.
The original is a very simple loop of heavy strap iron. My Dad's WD came with out a drawbar and he fashinoned his own Not having a torch, he welded up one. Altho it never gave us a problem, his loop should have been shorter.
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Rltool ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Jun 2013 Location: Middleville ,MI Points: 1826 |
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Chalmersbob ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 2122 |
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The WD didn't come with a snap coupler hitch. It was equipped with the pin hitch as previously illustrated. You could easily fabricate an adapter to bolt to the front of your draw bar as also shown. All you would need then is a bail to bolt the draw bar the the rear bar on your hitch. This would keep the draw bar from sliding around. LOL Bob
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4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,
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dave63 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Feb 2011 Location: Lineboro Md Points: 2382 |
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You may be able to find what you need on Ebay or salvage yard. There are a lot of them around and a lot being parted out.
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The universal answer to all questions is yes, how much do you want to spend?
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dustinmo ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Auxvasse, MO Points: 2187 |
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a pair were just posted on e-bay, they are not mine
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Ashaman ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 03 Feb 2014 Location: Elbert, CO Points: 134 |
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Based on y'all's pics and input, I took another look at the '54 and discovered that it still had that clevis. I'm wondering now how much of that three-point system is original.
As I always do, here are some pics: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Now I just need to put the drawbar pieces back together. The clevis pin seems a little short so I'll look at TSC for a suitable one; Big R didn't have anything usable yesterday. Or just do a big grade 8 bolt. My drawbar was bolted on one end where the holes line up and sandwiched between plates on the other end where the holes don't line up. I don't like that setup so I aim to bolt it together the way it should be. Can anyone tell which piece is original, or more original than the other? I'm tempted to just drill out where the two holes almost match up until I can get a big bolt in there, unless there's another piece that I should source so I can just bolt them together like stock. Pay no attention to the helpful dog. ![]() ![]() |
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- Brian
'54 WD (wife's grandfather's - resto?) '50 WD (new workhorse - gets used!) |
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Jim Hancock ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
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Hi Brian.
The 3 point is original and made for and/or by Allis. Your drawbar pieces look like they are a mismatched pair. Drill the hole where you need it as you have it laid out in the pic. The bail will go between the upper and lower pieces with a plate pinned/bolted down on the top piece to keep it from sliding side to side as in the pics above. On a side note, have you tried to slide the top piece back to the next hole back to see if they line up? From the angle in the pic, it looks like it might unless you're going for a short piece sticking out the back so that you don't have to remove the drawbar when you hook up a 3 point.
Edited by Jim Hancock - 07 Jul 2015 at 2:35pm |
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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Brian G. NY ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2259 |
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That is an original A-C 3-PH adapter.
I believe A-C only built them for the snap-coupler.....however......it is easy to see how simple it is to replace the "eye" with a piece of flat stock so it could be attached to the clevis for the pin hitch. Although your adapter is not complete, what is there appears to be in nice condition.
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Ashaman ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 03 Feb 2014 Location: Elbert, CO Points: 134 |
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Good to know about the AC 3pt adapter, I'll have to make sure to keep an eye out for similar setups. What parts of it aren't complete?
No two holes on the drawbar pieces line up, unfortunately. That's gonna be a big honking piece to drill through but I will probably do it the way they're laid out in the pic so I can keep the tail short for 3pt use, like you said, Jim. It mostly gets 3pt use rather than drawbar use, but you never know, and I hate having to chase parts down just to use the tractor the way it's supposed to be used. How heavy a load can one technically try to pull with the proper setup? When I was googling drawbars the other day, a few articles came up with tractor flips and they all involved hitching to the 3pt hitch. With the pulling coming from so far down and in front of the axle, I bet this thing could pull several thousand pounds not on wheels, and probably 10k or more on wheels (vehicle, etc), right? |
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- Brian
'54 WD (wife's grandfather's - resto?) '50 WD (new workhorse - gets used!) |
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Jim Hancock ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
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Here's an idea for you:
See about having a machine shop match drilling your hole as it might be easier for them to do it unless you have the drill press and time. Start with small bits first and work your way up to the size that you need. And yes, with weighted rear tires, they can pull a pretty good load from the draw bar when it's in a straight line to the hookup point and your clutch is in good shape and the engine isn't tired.
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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Brian G. NY ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2259 |
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I went back and looked at your pictures.....amazingly, you do have an original top link bracket attached to the rocker shaft. A valuable item.
The one thing you don't appear to have is the top-link itself which has a wheel to turn it rather than a pin like most after market top links. The other thing you apparently don't have is the stabilizer. Here are some pics of those items. .
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Ashaman ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 03 Feb 2014 Location: Elbert, CO Points: 134 |
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Man, it would have been cool to have all the original equipment. Are the stabilizers hard to find? Kinda hard to tell scale from that diagram.
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- Brian
'54 WD (wife's grandfather's - resto?) '50 WD (new workhorse - gets used!) |
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