plow question

I finally got around to having a new turnbuckle made for my 2-14 plow. I'm pretty sure it's a model 52. I'm pulling it with the CA. Traction booster system works like it's supposed to. When I set it all up the first time taking in account no furrows yet, I had it setting on the floor in the shop level. First pass the rh bottom cut in some, the left hardly went in. I turned the beaming screw in most of the way and the rh bottom cut in pretty well but the left did little more than scratch the surface. I shortened the turnbuckle I had repaired for the RH lift link all the way and that seemed to help quite a bit. It makes me wonder if maybe the turn buckle is still too long? What are the 2 set screws on the tongue for? I see I can angle the plow to the left or right with them. Moving the right wheel in or out changes the width of cut right? What about centering the plow on the cross bar that the lift links attach to? I took it all apart to free up all the adjustments. With just the tongue, lift links, and cross bar hanging on the tractor, the tongue is centered on the bar and the lift links are straight up and down. I then centered the rest of the plow on the cross bar as best I could. If the turnbuckle is still too long, once I have a furrow to drive in, I will need to shorten it a little more yet won't I? Anybody have a manual for a 52 plow that they would be willing to sell?

Edited by Brian Jasper co. Ia - 23 Oct 2010 at 11:17pm

Brian, it sounds to me that you need new plow shares.

The ground is moist here. No shortage of rain the last couple years. I have the coulters set like you describe. The landside looks good to me, but I can't say for sure I know what I'm looking at. I'm wondering if Dennis is right. I have to turn the beaming screw in most of the way to get much depth. When I had it set to where it would go in the ground and brought it back in the shop, when I set it down, it sets on the RH bottom's tip. The LH is almost 2 inches off the floor.

May not be your problem but I found when using over size tires, it raises the tractor enough to lose your depth adjustment. I had to cut the rod down about 2 inches shorter to catch up.

If I shorten the RH link all the way and turn the beaming screw all the way in the LH bottom does dig in, but the bottom of the furrow is not even close to being somewhat level. It's at least 30 degrees off.

Getting new points welded on, I know where I can go to get the welding done well, but is this a really sensitive job? Will he really need to know how to contour them? I don't think I know enough about a plow point to direct him.

Tom - The 2 screws between the beaming plates give you the same adjustment effect as moving the hitch on a pull type plow.  It allows the plow  to cut the correct width while it aligns the plow to the drawbar hitch point.  The beam screws are aligning the plow to the snap coupler hitch point.  On a 2-14 plow, the plow pull center is approx 17.5" from the furrow edge.  If the inside edge of your furrow wheel is 25", you need to adjust the beamscrews to make the plow pull straight.  You may need to move the tongue with the screws over 3-4"(to the left).  This will allow the plow to run straight.  As for welding plow points, you need to find someone who has done it before and knows  what there doing.

Edited by ALinIL - 25 Oct 2010 at 3:09pm

Went out and measured a plow on a D15. The RH lift link is 14 1/2"  bolt to bolt. The LH lift link is 11 1/2" bolt to bolt. I think that might cure my problem. Thanks guys.

I had a 53 plow and different problems, but you may find some helpful info in this thread where i was asking questions, it's 2 or 3 pages long

The 52 has no wheels and depth is just with the beaming screw. John, are those measurements from the manual for a 52, or just experience? How about tread width? In the "Plowing For Profit" video I have they are using a WD and a "round beam" plow. For 14" bottoms they say tread width center to center 56".

Brian - Sorry for the confusion Tom.  The setscrews I am referring are the ones on either side of the plowhitch(tongue) in the bottom of the 2 plates that hold the beaming crank(depth adjustment).  It allows the plow  to cut the correct width while it aligns the plow to the drawbar hitch point.  Remember the plow has a point from which it wants to pull from (approx 17.5" from the furrow wall on a 2-14)and the tractor pulls the plow from a point determined by the wheel thread.  The Furrow wheel is the RH wheel that runs in the furrow.  The reason for only moving the setscrews only 1/2 turn at a time is that moves the tongue eye about an inch at a time.  Normally you need to move the tongue to the left so the plow will run straight.  The screws in the crossbar are factory set and only moved if you go to 16" bottoms.  Hope this helps. - AL

Edited by ALinIL - 25 Oct 2010 at 9:52pm

I have always heard Oliver made some of the best plows in existance. Seems like it was Dean Byerly that told me that when he worked for Brubaker's in Prairie City from time to time they would put Oliver's Raydex bottoms on A-C plows when nothing else would work.

Tom-

Brian Jasper co. Ia wrote: I have always heard Oliver made some of the best plows in existance. Seems like it was Dean Byerly that told me that when he worked for Brubaker's in Prairie City from time to time they would put Oliver's Raydex bottoms on A-C plows when nothing else would work.

For a long time they were.  Good plow and used the least power/fuel compared to other bottoms.  That is until the kerverland bottoms came out, they blow every thing else out of the water? Furrow? 

Brian, the snap coupler did not come out on the CA until January of 54 so if yours was a 51 it was converted.  I do not know the measurements or the exact method (I think the used the bottom hole of the pin hitch pin holes) but they were shortened compared to the pin hitch lift arms and cause problems with some implements, and would with the plow. 

ALinIL wrote: Sorry for the confusion I may have caused.  Big thing to remember is that a plow has its hitch or pull point  and the tractor has its pull point. The tractors pull point is determined by wheel thread.  I have a WD45 and a no 52, 2-14 plow.  I run the wheels out one notch(hole).  I have adjusted the screws in the tongue so the plow runs straight and the front bottom takes about 15".  The little extra width on the front bottom helps fill and make both furrows level.  Sometime when I plow I'll try to get some pictures.

Edited by TomYaz - 26 Oct 2010 at 12:10pm