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Pickup dilemma

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blue924.9 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blue924.9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Pickup dilemma
    Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 3:50pm
Hello everyone. Im in a bit of a situation here and need some input as i'm sure some of you have been in this situation before. I have an 01 ram 2500 with the 360 in it. It has 132k on it and 1 spec of rust from a paint chip I foolishly ignored. The engine has developed some mechanical issues as well as the front driveline. In short it would need 3500 dollars worth of work to bring back up to spec. The big items are intake gasket, cylinder heads, and a new front driveshaft. I am a cat technician and will be doing all the work myself. Is it worth fixing this truck or letting it go? I pull my pulling tractor with it and potentially my mother's camper this summer. I have already put a better built transmission in it to the tune of 3500 dollars and other things like wheel bearings and water pumps. The value of this truck in kbb is 8800 dollars.

If I do end up fixing it I have a mind to find a good used engine and build a 408 stroker for the truck for some additional pulling power. This will bump the price up another 200 roughly.

Thanks for everyone's insight. Being my second truck I have never run into this situation before.
hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share
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DMiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 3:58pm
IMHO Fix what you have and peddle it, once this begins at miles shown becomes a cascade of concerns and trips to bank.

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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 4:59pm
You have a 18 year old truck, but miles are not too bad.. I would look at the frame, gas line , brake lines , rear bumper mounts, radiator frame.... how much rust ?  Will it last several years ?  Do you drive in the winter or just a summer truck ?   If everything is GOOD and all you have to do is $4000.  of repairs, that could be a good deal..
 
I tend to get rid of my trucks when they get 15 years on them... but I drive in the winter and salt takes its toll on the frame / brake lines.... and I would have 250K miles.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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fixer1958 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fixer1958 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 4:59pm
What happened that you have to yank the heads off?
I know the intake will leak and suck oil but other than that......
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Dave H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 6:10pm
I think DMiller has the answer.  Get something you can hop in and drive.
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exSW View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 6:22pm
Build your engine and drop it in. Those second generation Dodge gassers get shorted because of the diesels. The 2500's especially are tough pickups and 132k is no miles.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 6:40pm
You need to stop and think about all the new tech on the cars they are selling today. They are real close to self driving with all the colistion aviodance computers. But it is all just getting figured out.

Local mechanic telling of the tester device to make sure all the sensors are aimed right costing up to $50,000. To change a head light bulb on some you loosen the plastic bumper and change bulb,but a sensor in bumper needs to be exactly where it was before. You need the high dollar machine to be sure it is back were in needs to be if the colistion aviodance system is to work.

That is not the kind of stuff I want to paying for everyone education on. I have a friend with a 18 F150,he brags to me in town traffic never have to step on the brake. At 30 mpr the car ahead stops his truck does too. That is not how I wish to drive. So as long as I can keep old junk running I hope to. But I don't have the salt problem ether. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iowallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 7:18pm
Would a "crate" engine be an option?
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Hubert (Ga)engine7 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hubert (Ga)engine7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 9:06pm
Look at it this way - you are spending much less than the book value of the truck so if you sell it you should be able to get most of your investment back and you are spending a lot less than the price of a new truck. So if you do not want the latest fancy smancy electronics and gadgets keep what you have, with the low mileage you should be able to get many more years of service out of it.
Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 9:27pm
Low mileage new trany I keep it and drive till catastrophic failure. If you doing the heads and gaskets your self it shouldn't cost that much. I had the local driveline shop custom build my drive shafts when I lifted my suburban. They were 500 for both shafts. And they put a new cardigan in the front one. I currently have 3 Chevy trucks with over 200k and would not be afraid to jump in any and drive to anywhere. In my opinion your better off with what you know than buying something else. I don't flinch spending money on any of my vehicles there all old and worth nothing. But I can buy a lot of parts for the cost of one new truck payment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dusty MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 9:28pm
I've got an '89 E-150, about 150,000 miles.

Dusty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 9:51pm
It's a pretty good engine with the exception of the heads. Crack.crack and then some more cracks. But properly repaired, no more problem.   Leon
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 9:59pm

 Like most are sayin here,,it's lots cheaper to fix what you got,,,,you just gotta go by the dealer and price a brand new one,,something like over 75,000,,,and like they say them new ones got so dang many new fangled electronics,,,I'd be afraid to leave the driveway,,,,LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jiminnd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 10:22pm
If you go different, are you going to make payments? No payments is worth a lot if you can fix yours and still like it, doesn't take many payments to match what you are putting into yours.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 10:44pm
I would place an EXTREMELY close focus on the brake and fuel lines.

IF the truck has ABS, and you blow a brake line, the ABS pump will kick on and pump the master cylinder dry, onto the ground, leaving you with absolutely NO brakes.

I don't know what rocket-scientist came up with the design, but I had it damned-near kill me in my '99 Chevy, and same thing happened to my buddy with his 97 Ram... He was fortunate to be in his driveway when his blew... and he was going slow enough to just turn the wheel a bit, and gently nose it into a tree (no damage).

When the line blows, and the ABS pump goes full-snot-till-dry, the ABS pump is shot.  At that point, you'll be replacing ALL the brake lines, the ABS pump, and most likely the master cylinder.  IF you take it to a shop, they will REQUIRE that all the wheel cylinders and flexible lines get replaced as well, and the factory lines (plain steel) are ALL they will use.

IF you choose to keep yours, and it has ABS, bite the bullet and get a full stainless line kit for both brakes and fuel.  IF you're even a halfway-capable driver, nix the ABS and put in a 'classic' split-master-cylinder system (with the safety diverter/proportioning valve) so that if you lose a line or a cylinder, you'll have two functioning brakes (rather than none).

I personally, would NOT buy a new truck... I have an extreme dislike for all the technotrash problems.  If you feel the need to replace yours, find an OLDER platform... a stout chassis, driveline, and a good cab... and put your dollar, blood, sweat, and time into making IT what you want.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 3:27am

 X2 on what ole Dave says,,,,,,Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 6:19am
So , WHERE can you find the EQUAL to it for $4000 ? You KNOW the vehicle, inside and out , and obviously like it based on doing repairs in the past.

If you're going to do both engine and tranny, pull the cab. It's not that hard ( 6-8 bolts, few wires, lift) and allows GREAT access to frame and lines.

I decided 10 years ago to keep my '97 F150 with 84K miles on it. I KNOW it, serves me well, comfortable and I can toss 1K  year into it until I die and STILL be ahead of buying a new one.

In the end it's your decision, heck write the pros and cons on paper...SEEING the list may show you the best choice.

Jay

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 6:34am
And can agree with Jay on list. My '99 gets used so little it rots sitting still. Soon it will get listed on FB Market and CL LOCAL Only for a decent price. Asked the Local Dealer what it could be worth as BB not reality, told me to ad it for $7000 running but note the rust and any damage, can be a daily driver but needs work, be willing to accept Less. The 7.3 with Auto trans and FWD is worth that in salvage.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blue924.9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 7:24am
Heads need to come off due to broken manifold bolts and this engine gets worked hard and im anticipating cracks in the head. Frame and lines are all good with the factory paint still on 90 percent of the frame. It never was drove in the winter but I do drive it during heavy snow otherwise I take my rusty pontiac g6. The big items are intake manifold, heads, driveshaft, and the tires are starting to cup so joints will be needed at some point
hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share
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blue924.9 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blue924.9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 7:25am
The replacement would either be a low mileage 7.3 which is still old and could have issues with that too or a newer gas work truck
hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote festus51 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 9:31am
I do not k now about Iowa but in KS  just the sales tax and registration on a new pu would more than pay for the new engine and other work on your truck.   Plus you would be paying high property taxes every year for many years on a new one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomNE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2019 at 1:34pm
I'd fix it as 3/4 ton PU's without rust are impossible to find!

AC from the start of my families farming career till the end!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 12:04am
soooooo….you wanna fix it and unload it for someone else to enjoy while you make payments on a different one that may have the same/worse problems than what you have now? you are at the mileage time when things do start to wear out, but is usually still cheaper than buying a newer one. unless you want an excuse for a change?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 5:54am
re:
but is usually still cheaper than buying a newer one.

it's ALWAYS cheaper to fix than buy new ! least up here , north of the 49th.
 To replace my '97 F150 reg cab, shrt box, 4.8V8, XLT,box liner, trailer hitch is $43K PLUS taxes for a 2018 'version' of it. Yeah I get a lot of 'bells and whistles', useless to me and $$$ to repair.

I've spent maybe $4K in the past 10 years(tires,battery,starter,lines,tranny,etc.). She's still a good,solid ride. I could blow $3K a year until I die and I'l be ahead of buying AND truck will still be on the road.

If you're happy with your ride, repair it !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ihc pickups Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:15am
I agree with Festus I to live in KS and between personal property taxes, annual registrations, insurance on the new ones. I can put a lot of dollars into an old vehicle.
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chaskaduo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:30am
Love my 91 Dakota! I buy parts that are getting harder to find for it when I can even if I don't need it at the time, like the SECM. It is throttle body injected.

Edited by chaskaduo - 24 Dec 2019 at 8:35am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:33am
re: KS between personal property taxes,

do you mean they CHARGE you on your rides ? If so, how much ?
man I hope THAT doesn't come up here !!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fixer1958 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:35am
That's the reason I bought an 02 Chevy 3/4 that is rust free. Took me a year to find one.
Property tax, sales tax, tax taxes, rust free tax etc. Still got tags for $800.
Full coverage insurance is $40 for 3 months.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fixer1958 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:38am
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

re: KS between personal property taxes,

do you mean they CHARGE you on your rides ? If so, how much ?
man I hope THAT doesn't come up here !!!


Yep...Be sure you keep your name off anything if you are shopping because they will tax you for that tooWink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2019 at 8:44am
hmm.. is the tax a percentage ?
just curious

up here buy a used ride and THEY say what the value is ! THEIR 'black book' is LAW, can't do the $100 deal.....though for $100 you can get an 'appraisal' but if it's lowball, watch out !
Every ride up here gets 13% tax EVERY time it's resold....
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