![]() |
This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | |||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
Picked up an Allis Chalmers B Today |
Post Reply ![]() |
Author | |
acisbest ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 09 Oct 2009 Location: SE, PA Points: 140 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 14 Aug 2020 at 8:45pm |
What am I doing? Picked up a B today from my daughters old boyfriend. This tractor makes 7 Allis Chalmers... They broke up and he lost interest in the Tractor Hobby. The tractor sat outside for three years. I had done a head rebuild about 10 years ago with him. It was a great looking and running B. Now its stuck tight. Got it home today, took the plugs out and there was some rust on the ends of the plugs. Shot PB Blaster down the plug hole. I'm hoping with time it might loosen up. The tractor is crank start only. No ring gear on the fly wheel. I tried rocking it back and forth while in 3rd gear, no fan movement. I don't want to pull another motor, I have a million projects ahead of that one. I've already rebuilt a CA that probably has about 1 hour if that on it. There aren't enough hours in a minute. Any other ideas? would marvel mystery oil be better? Diesel? SHould I fill the cylinders entirely? He also said he drained the oil and got about 2 cups of water out.... That could have happened with condensation. One year my WC had so much water in the gear box it froze up.... Once it warmed up and I drained it everything was fine. I'm droning. Thanks in advance for any other advice. Regards, acisbest Allis Chalmers B,C,CA,G,WC,WD,D17, HD6G ![]() Edited by acisbest - 14 Aug 2020 at 9:14pm |
|
![]() |
|
Sponsored Links | |
![]() |
|
Bill Long ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bel Air, MD Points: 4556 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You saved another of my favorites - the Allis Chalmers B. Thank you
Good Luck! Bill Long
|
|
![]() |
|
steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85476 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
WOW... a WAR TIME B with the correct fenders / air intake and has rear wheel weights and front side weights... thats a winner !!
|
|
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
|
![]() |
|
steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85476 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
lot of guys use auto trans fluid (ATF) and mix with acetone... suppose to eat thru the old rust and end up in the crank case.... I would put several ounces into each cylinder and let it set... FIlling to the top might be a good idea.. you can monitor what leaks by looking in the plug hole.... let it set for a week or two.. then rock.
|
|
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
|
![]() |
|
Boss Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 03 Mar 2018 Location: Greenleaf, WI Points: 617 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Nice looking tractor
|
|
![]() |
|
Mike R. in Maine ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 65 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I totally understand time is precious, but pulling the head doesn't take all that long or immobilize the tractor. Then you can take a razor blade to slice the crust around the pistons, to allow your soaking juice of choice ,to get down in. Also allows you to take a block of hard wood that fits the hole to jar the pistons to encourage them to let go. Another method I've used is to train refrigerant using a gauge set ment to service cars at the pistons ....this will cause them to flash freeze and expand and contract helping them let go. Do this in an open space if you use more than a couple cans. Good luck saving the jewel. Mike
|
|
![]() |
|
steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85476 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If you pull the head, remember this is a wet sleeve motor... Bumping the pistons can make a sleeve move UP out of the fit... make sure you put a plate and head bolt back in to hold them STEADY.
|
|
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
|
![]() |
|
Brian G. NY ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2256 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yeah, that tractor has a lot going for it!
|
|
![]() |
|
DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53254 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Marvel mystery oil IS atf! That being said, if you want to spend 3x as much as regular atf, knock yourself out. I'd follow the good advice above...
![]() |
|
Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
|
|
![]() |
|
acisbest ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 09 Oct 2009 Location: SE, PA Points: 140 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Its soaking with ATF and acetone all the way up to the plug holes. I'll give it two weeks. Then, I'll probably give it more time than that. I don't want to rebuild another tractor that I probably won't use. I did a total engine job on my CA and still have not finished that tractor. I'll probably mothball the B until I have time to do it right. I've worked on a lot of frozen engines and its rare that I can free them up without pulling them apart. I'm curious to see if this recommended concoction will work. I'm rocking it back and forth in third. I will not be forcing anything. I'm not optimistic but if it works I will be happy. Thanks for all of the suggestions. Regards, acisbest SE PA
|
|
![]() |
|
steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85476 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've worked on a lot of frozen engines and its rare that I can free them up without pulling them apart. I'm curious to see if this recommended concoction will work. I'm rocking it back and forth in third. I will not be forcing anything.
I personally have not had a lot of luck either.. I think it really depends on how STUCK they are and how much RUST.... The couple that i had that were STUCK came apart with the pistons frozen inside the liners.. Tried to press one out and ruined the piston.. The other had a split liner... this was after soaking for a month.
|
|
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
|
![]() |
|
WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4889 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
In addition to what Steve said, I have made a fitting that screws into a spark plug hole that an air fitting fits into. I take the valve cover off and remove the rocker arm and try to get the valves closed (it's usually the cylinder with the exhaust valve open that is stuck). I attach an air hose, with a regulator and let it sit. If you have a borescope camera (there are some inexpensive ones that transmit to your smart phone), it will sometimes tell you that you are wasting your time before you pull the head off. If the sleeve is all rusted and pitted, forget it. With that said, I haven't had great luck freeing up stuck engines and even poorer luck getting the few that did free up, running without fouling spark plugs or excessive smoking and oil consumption. Good luck !!! Edit: If you fill the cylinder to the plug hole (as Steve said), thread a plug back into the hole. Acetone evaporates. Edited by WF owner - 16 Aug 2020 at 7:39am |
|
![]() |
|
Dick L ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I have had excellent luck freeing up stuck engines in a very short time. They always run well and have few problems years after.
![]() ![]() ![]() |
|
![]() |
|
john2189 ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Minerva,Ohio Points: 304 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Could just be a stuck valve. I just did one that was sitting out side for three years. After it bent the pushrod, it turned over. Loosen the valve by tapping with a hammer another pushrod and it started.
|
|
'41 Allis B
'45 Allis B '49 Farmall Cub '72 IH Cub |
|
![]() |
|
WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4889 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've had good luck that way too, Dick L !!!
|
|
![]() |
|
steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85476 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
YEP......... DICK has the plan for stuck motors... Thats what i always end up doing.
|
|
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
|
![]() |
|
Joe(OH) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Montezuma, Ohio Points: 985 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
A few years ago I picked up a WD that had sat in a field for years with the exhaust open. I bought it for the rear wheels and some other parts. The engine was stuck tight. I decided I wasn't out much by trying to free it with acetone and atf. I made sure the cylinders were full everyday. I also engaged the pto and put a 6 foot pipe wrench on it with a suitcase weight hanging on it. After about a week of soaking I had a big friend, about 300 pounds, push on the pipe wrench and the engine turned over! I then got it fired up and it ran great. I had to clean the spark plugs often at first as they would fill up with rust and short out, but eventually I got all the junk out of the cylinders.
|
|
Life is simpler when you plow around the stump.
|
|
![]() |
|
Hillmann ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Location: Wisconsin Points: 209 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I have had two old engines (one truck, one tractor) that were stuck solid. On the truck I filled the cylinders with diesel every week all winter and it did no good. I took the head of and could see not rust, I tried pounding the pistons down with a wood cylinder, I couldn't budge it. I was going to pull the engine and found the bell housing was full of acorns. I put the truck in a forward gear and drug it around backwards and started spinning and I was able to get the acorns out. On the tractor I tried soaking the pistons and it was stuck solid. I eventually remembered and checked and found that the bell housing was full of acorns again. I pulled the starter and with a big screwdriver I was able to turn the engine over and remove the acorns. In both cases I could have sworn that the engines were seized up when in reality it was a very minor problem. It may be worth a check on yours.
|
|
![]() |
|
DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53254 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Sadly, if it sat out for 3 years, and had 2 cups of water in the motor oil, I'd hazard a guess, and say that water leaked in through an open (uncovered) exhaust, into the manifold, and down the nearest open valve, to a cylinder, and down to the pan. Lots of potential frozen parts, on the way. But, the ATF/acetone and time will tell...
![]() |
|
Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
|
|
![]() |
|
Dan Hauter ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 06 Feb 2011 Location: Carlinville, IL Points: 1249 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This is a "fix' told to me by a fellow Allis-Chalmers guy: Put your brand of lubricant in the plug holes, put tractor on a trailer, don't chain it down, put tractor in gear, drive slowly down a lane or deserted country road stopping frequently, make sure to watch the tractor tires in the mirror, when you see the wheels moving, stop and chain the tractor down. I have yet to try this method. Good luck and be very careful if you dare to try it. Dan.
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
acisbest ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 09 Oct 2009 Location: SE, PA Points: 140 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Waited almost two weeks on the acetone and no luck. My brother helped me pull it with my C, no luck, frozen solid. Decided to take the advice and pull off the head. Took about 1/2 hour, head was off. Lots of water with acetone in 3 and 4. 1 and 2 full of deep rust. Surprisingly 3 and 4 looked good.... ![]() |
|
![]() |
|
acisbest ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 09 Oct 2009 Location: SE, PA Points: 140 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85476 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
thats the problem i have run into.. When you have corrosion 1/16 inch deep into the cylinder walls, you are NOT going to get it to run, even if you break it loose... The AFT story is for surfac rusted or stuck WITHOUT any extensive corrosion..
Your going to find the rings are frozen in the pistons also. ![]() Edited by steve(ill) - 28 Aug 2020 at 9:30pm |
|
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
|
![]() |
|
acisbest ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 09 Oct 2009 Location: SE, PA Points: 140 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
acisbest ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 09 Oct 2009 Location: SE, PA Points: 140 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Agreed, those cylinders are toast. He must have left the muffler open. . The tractor was not tarped..
I store my tractors outside. Always tarped. I always pull my pipes off, easier on the tarps, plus I put the weather flaps on my pipes in case I fail to tarp when I am using them. I always put a rock over the manifold hole in case the tarp blows off. Hopefully the crank is ok. I have already rebuilt the head, will look that over today for rust... Not hopefull. Where do I get an low cost jug and piston set and why do I need 7 tractors? |
|
![]() |
|
WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4889 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I am betting you are thinking that it will not get run very much and cheap parts will be fine. My advice is buy 4 (not just replace the 2 bad ones !) new sleeve/piston/rings assemblies and do the job right.
|
|
![]() |
|
SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8471 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Since you don't really need it and don't want to put the effort into fixing it.....offer it for sale? Has a lot of promise and it not a cobble job. There's someone who would love that as a project.
|
|
![]() |
|
acisbest ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 09 Oct 2009 Location: SE, PA Points: 140 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Oh well, always wanted the B. I'll end up doing it right. Just saw a picture on Facebook of a guy that had 15 AC G's in a barn, all in great shape. I guess comparatively 7 tractors is not bad. Wheres the best place to buy a good set of jugs and pistons? Good quality, low cost.... Regards, Acisbest AC: C,CA,WD,WC,D17,G, HDG6, and now B. |
|
![]() |
|
WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4889 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Try Jim Danforth at OK Tractor.
|
|
![]() |
|
sparky ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 May 2011 Location: So. Indiana Points: 1724 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Good luck with that.
|
|
It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
|
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |