PH8A Fram oil filter

Was in Home Depot today and saw that they are selling these filters for $3.98 . Gonna buy a few soon . Fits my D 15 .

You can get a Mobil 1 at Wally World for just a couple of bucks more. It's a far better filter.

I’ve seen the insides of a Fram on Youtube. Fram now has 3 different grades of filters. Obviously this is the cheapest of the 3. A Fram will give you at best 40 microns of filtration. A Mobil 1 will filter down to 25 microns. A Purolator Boss will filter down to 20 microns and has extra capacity, but at $18 a pop it isn’t worth it.

Baldwin is very reasonably priced at the AGCO dealer I buy from in Iowa. They easily beat NAPA price which isn't hard to do.

Lonn wrote: Or you could get an AGCO filter from your local AGCO dealer..... if you have one.

....and it is made by Wix

Mobil 1 M1-101A or M1-301. You can open the box and look at Walmart.

I'm told a filter for a 190 will also fit the base for a D17/D15 etc and vice versa.

Lots of good info. Thanks !

I believe the oil bath oil is supposed to be changed every day of use.... like every 10 hours of use.


Edited by Lonn - 06 Aug 2019 at 1:59pm

Yeah Lonn my book says clean and replace oil daily.8 to 10 hours . Thanks for the numbers Joe.

Donaldson P169071

From what I just heard from a friend of mine that runs pre-Arca series race cars, the $4 Fram will be more than sufficient LOL!! My friend says ANY filter can be cut open to glean whatever outcome they desire ?? I personally have run fram filters on 6 different vehicles since '79, and dad ran them on D 17,14,15,19 and a 180,no engine issues.

Edited by FREEDGUY - 07 Aug 2019 at 8:39pm

Not an expert, just spends 10's of thousands of $$ on engines for machining/performance. He says the "fram stigma" started in the early '70's (and got rectified) and some people just can't let it go 

I have been using Fram filters in all my vehicles since my first one in 1989. The neighbor I worked for back then used Fram exclusively on all his farm tractors and vehicles. He had gone to school for mechanics prior to returning to the family farm with his Dad. That was good enough for me. He taught me A LOT about vehicle maintenance and repair. None of my vehicles have ever gone to the junkyard due to blown or even worn out engines. The drivetrains have always outlasted the body and/or undercarriage that wound up so bad that I was unable to justify repairing the vehicle any longer regardless of how well it still ran. My current truck/daily driver is a 1996 S10 which is the only vehicle I have ever purchased brand new. Once the warranty had expired, I have done all the PM on it myself using Fram filters. At 315K+ miles on all original internals, it still runs 60 lbs oil pressure consistently and doesn't use or leak a drop of oil in between services. I did upgrade to Fram's mid grade filter (TG vs PH) when they came out for the improved filtering and have used them in all the vehicles I have serviced which includes my wife's past and current vehicles as well as those of my FIL/MIL too. Just my $0.02 on this subject. That being said, the couple of times that I myself have purchased filters for 1 of the ACs, I did so at the local AGCO dealer because we were actually fortunate enough to have 1 right in my hometown 3 miles from the house and they knew our tractors well.

FREEDGUY wrote: Not an expert, just spends 10's of thousands of $$ on engines for machining/performance. He says the "fram stigma" started in the early '70's (and got rectified) and some people just can't let it go

Rectified? How? It's the glued pleated paper element that is the problem. Now if Fram changed the PH8A to a lengthwise metal crimp to hold the paper together then they may finally have a good filter but until then, the PH8A is NOT a good filter. That's just a fact. The glue, over time, will separate. A metal crimp is far better, especially for an engine that gets little use and sits for long periods between changes. I hope you can accept that fact.


Edited by Lonn - 08 Aug 2019 at 8:59am