painting

i will thank you sir!

Question...does anyone ever use Ago's Acrylic Enamel "Corporate Orange" that they sell by the Quarts & Gallons. If you use a good primer is this paint any good?

I have used PPG urethane a few times with excellent results. PPG's web site showed PPG distributors in Pueblo, Lamar, and Trinidad to name a few in your part of the state. 

I have used napa paints before and I like them. I shot a few different colors of the single stage acrylic urethane and I liked them. They are definatly not "show quality" paints but for painting tractors or old trucks they worked great for me. But remember they don't last as long as base coat clear coat paint jobs. I painted a 83 dodge pick-up, a small case tractor, a wheel horse GT, and a old hyster forklift with napa paints. Best advice I can say is to read up on the paint your going to buy and see what primers and sealers they recommend. Certain paints will only adhere to certain primers/ sealers etc. When I painted my old dodge I shot it charcoal gray and had to spray it with a sealer because I didn't take it down to bare metal. I also painted a cub for someone with the valspar paint from TSC. I didn't add any hardener to the paint just naptha thinner and it came out pretty nice.

I guess I was more thinking about castings and such, rather than sheet metal.  I spend alot of time either making new sheet metal or pounding and welding and grinding any sheet metal defects so I don't have to spend the time with a surfacer and sanding.  I now see where you're headed Butch, thanks for the insight though, it may be something I use in the future on a problem piece that I don't have the time, patience or skill to do the metal work on.

ill post pictures of what i have to work with in a little bit then go from there maybe?

Brad The surfacer has nothing to do with bonding, its all about getting things leveled out and smooth. It can be done with spoons, hammers and heat on the metal if a person has those skills and patiance, I have neither. It can also be done when sanding the putty but its lots easier and quicker to give the metal a couple coats of surfacer and let it dry for an hour and sand. The first time used it will amaze by how easily it sands. Properly done the surface will feel as smooth as a new born baby's butt. I only can wish I was good enough with metal to go without it!  You dont use it on castings and often dont need it on new repro sheet metal, depends on how well the maker knows his craft.

Butch, what you describe is a third step that I have never done.  I have always went with a primer coat and then on to multiple layers of paint to suit my coverage and depth preferences in the color stage.  I have never had a problem with bonding primer, whether it's an epoxy or sandable sealer, to my color coat.  Should I be using a lacquer surfacer in between?

abbaschild95 wrote: so  first go at it with a coat of sandable primer?? sand between the first and second coats and use the second coat as the sealer? or get a different kind of primer completely?

Hey Brad,

I tried to use a reducer in conjuction with the Omni epoxy primer and didn't really care for the results.  I prefer to use it as recommended with just the primer and catalyst in a 2 to 1 ratio.  With the reducer it didn't seem to cover as well.  I have it down pretty good I think, getting good coverage in basically 1 primer coat with only a few touch ups needed after some inspection.  Butch, have you tried the enviro line from PPG, which is their water borne system?  I have heard they had some trouble in the past, but just watched a hot rod show a couple weekends ago and they were using the PPG water borne system and it seemed to cover good and be just as easy to spray as the solvent paint.  I thought about giving it a try as the cost has come down to a more reasonable amount compared to the solvent paint.  I'd really llike to get away from all the solvents to save myself misery down the road.

you guys dont use a sealer. sorry no question marks on my phone..

I use a 2-pack that is iso free , its made by a company here called protec,and ppg here also make one that is iso free as well.

























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I am now using the single stage DuPont in the Nason line.

yes the La junta one would be closest. are they considerably more expensive? im not worried about price i just want to be prepared haha