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Lonn 
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Location: Назарово,Russia
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 Topic: OT Ford F250 question
Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 1:28pm |
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My 2000 F250 Super Duty 7.3 headlights do not work with the key switch in the run position. They work fine both high beam and low with the key turned back to off or accessory positions. The clearance lights work as normal no matter the key position. The key was very sloppy in the barrel and then had locked up tight not long ago so I put a new key barrel in then and it has worked fine until now. I just replaced the ignition switch after reading several sites with others having light problems but that improved nothing. So I assume the light switch is good, I assume the ignition switch is good, I assume the multi switch is good as the dim and bright work fine with the key off. Could I be wrong and it's still the multiswitch (aka high-low beam/turn signal)? Any ideas out there?
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DougS
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 1:46pm |
If it started when you changed the key switch, I'd lay the blame there. Pull the key switch and check all the connections.
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Lonn
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 2:05pm |
Thanks. I changed out the key barrel a few months ago and it was working fine until a few days ago. I just changed out the ignition switch today and still no improvement. I then tried a junk yard key barrel with no improvement. It's strange the lights work fine until I turn the key to run position.
I can't find anyone on the internet with the same problem.
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DougS
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 2:10pm |
There is a light control module lurking in that truck. I've been away just long enough to have forgotten where it is. I believe it's under the dash on the driver's side. You can try one of those from the junk yard.
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Hockeygoon
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 2:13pm |
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I will say that the 1999 to 2010(?) Ford Super Duties are notorious for having grounding issues that cause all kinds of strange electrical problems.
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DougS
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 2:29pm |
 Hockeygoon wrote:
I will say that the 1999 to 2010(?) Ford Super Duties are notorious for having grounding issues that cause all kinds of strange electrical problems. |
Anything is possible, but I've done a lot of upfitting on Fords and Chevys between 2000 and 2015 and just never saw grounding issues on a Ford. They are straightforward and bring each ground to a good solid post. On Chevys you have to watch that braided wire under the hood that connects the engine to the body. Let one end or the other loosen and you'll see some very odd things.
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Lonn
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 2:34pm |
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OK Thanks, that module looks spendy if it's the one I just looked at on youtube but the guy was soldering in new relays into that board for a cheaper fix. This is a very rusted truck underneath being here in the land of 10,000 lakes so I suppose it could be a bad ground too.
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DougS
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 4:15pm |
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Do you know someone with a similar vehicle? If so, ask if you can "borrow" the module and try it. If that doesn't fix it you know enough to look at other things. If it does fix it you could go to a salvage yard. The P/N will be on the module. Google for used parts. They are about 1/3 the cost of new. Since your lights do come on I doubt the relay is the problem.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 4:24pm |
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Im not an expert on the lights, but I think Doug is onto something.. You say the lights work in accessory and off, but don't work when the ignition is ON.... so its not the light switch..it seems to turn on and off.... its the ignition switch ( various positions) or something it is triggering. Since you have replaced the ignition switch, a relay sounds like a good possibility.
Edited by steve(ill) - 03 Jul 2017 at 4:26pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 4:46pm |
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If your Ferd is like mine there are 100+ FUSES you should read up about. About 5-6 pages of them in the owner's manual....
It 'might' be there's ONE that's blown that feed power to lights under the 'right' condition.
Relays seldom fail BUT if the fuse supplying power to it is kablooey....noworkey !
Unless you disconnected the battery while 'under the dash' a fuse could have popped...
I know up here, you need daytime running lights to work to get your tag, after that guys remove a fuse to shut them off( legal too...).
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Lonn
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 4:53pm |
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Ok thanks guys. I know the local salvage yards folks good and the owner hunts our land so I think he'll lend me a module to check it out.
I did disconnect the batteries because I was afraid the airbags might blow but I'll check the fuses anyhow.
Thanks again but I'm quitting for today
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