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Oil pan Gasket video

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Don(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2014 at 2:11pm
Originally posted by JimD JimD wrote:

I was gonna suggest Don do the brake pins on a WD, but then we wouldn't be able to have any audio.


Well Jim I might do a video on WD/WD45/D17 brake pins sometime down the road, Most of the guys on here will not like the way I change brakes, I cut the pins off first thing and don't fight them danged old pins at $15.00 per pin it's to much trouble to save them for me. lol
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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1946WP View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1946WP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2014 at 10:07pm
great video, thanks.
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Ted J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2014 at 4:15pm
Thanks to EVERYONE involved in the making of this film!!  GREAT job by all concerned.  Don, accolades to you for knuckling under and becoming a movie star now.  Hats off to you!
For you guys on iPhones, here is a converter place to make this better for your phones and also to you guy on PCs that want to save this for the future.
http://www.clipconverter.cc/
I saved it in AVI and also MOV for future use.
** BE VERY CAREFUL,,,,,when you go to download the video, another window will open with some jibberish in it.  DO NOT click on ANYTHING in this window except the X in the corner to SHUT THIS WINDOW!! **

I like the idea of doing a brake job on a WD/WD45.  And I agree with you Don on just cutting the pins out!  Saves a lot of time and grief!

Congrats!!  You are right up there with Tom Mix now.  LOL


Edited by Ted J - 17 Nov 2017 at 4:05am
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19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote j.w.freck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2014 at 7:24pm
that's the way I do it to don,i give them one chance and then it is the Hobart plasma torch.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BennyLumpkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2014 at 7:15am
I've tried watching this on my phone and computer and the sound is muffled and garbled.. anyone else have that problem?
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1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
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Don(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2014 at 7:52am
I just looked at it and the video is working fine for me. 
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dashingrampallian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2014 at 2:46am
Originally posted by JimD JimD wrote:

It's finally done!
My son had a lot of commitments this summer, and I forgot to upload the video while he was gone last week. Anyway, here it is. He has about 20+ hours in editing it. Yes, it really does take that long. If you wish to contact him directly, I can get you his information.


Nice video... :)
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Don(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2014 at 8:54am
Originally posted by j.w.freck j.w.freck wrote:

that's the way I do it to don,i give them one chance and then it is the Hobart plasma torch.....

I'm going to get a diff head for my plasma torch that will let me get up inside that little hole better. lol  
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote B26240 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2015 at 6:50pm
Don you did a great job!!!  Thanks to all involved with this effort.  Mark
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Don(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2015 at 9:06pm
OK guys after a phone call I got asking about the oil pan INFO, I just went back to watch the video again and low and behold I made a big mistake on the oil pan's with I said in the video it was 4 3/4" that's wrong, it is 4 7/8"
I'm sorry for the wrong INFO in the video, Please add this note to your list.
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beanking Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb 2015 at 12:59pm
With background noisebut understand what his talking loud and clear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David Terry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2015 at 6:10am
Great Video. I am in the process of upgrading my WAC and I for sure don't want any oil leaks. I've got an Oliver 880 with a pretty good oil leak in the rear, and I'm going to pull it and see where I went wrong the first time I "fixed it". Thanks again for making the video. Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alliskid13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2015 at 9:08pm
Thank you to everyone who was involved in the video. I am rebuilding my 57 WD45 and needed a few tips on putting the seals on my oil pan.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2015 at 9:12pm
Great video, wish I had seen it before I did mine. I have one question, can the rear seal be replaced in the tractor? Would you have to loosen the mains to let the crank drop a little?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2015 at 9:19pm
Originally posted by JM JM wrote:

Great video, wish I had seen it before I did mine. I have one question, can the rear seal be replaced in the tractor? Would you have to loosen the mains to let the crank drop a little?

You wouldn't have to loosen the crank, just the remove the rear cap and remove the top retainer. The clutch and flywheel have to be removed to do this.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allishawk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2015 at 5:59am
Great video Don. What should a guy use for gasket material when making the "F" gasket for the early motors?
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Don(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2015 at 1:01pm
Originally posted by allishawk allishawk wrote:

Great video Don. What should a guy use for gasket material when making the "F" gasket for the early motors?

I make .012" to .015" thick gaskets. Hope this helps.
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BillyTheKid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jun 2015 at 11:44am
Great video. Should be titled A Hundred Ways for Your New Oil Pan Gasket To Leak.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MARK W (NY) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2015 at 9:40pm
When talking about the  F gaskets    You said the early models, ,where does a 1950 WD fall into the mix Early or late ?    Thanks    
Its a Great Life if you don't weaken
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Don(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jun 2015 at 5:46am
Originally posted by MARK W (NY) MARK W (NY) wrote:

When talking about the  F gaskets    You said the early models, ,where does a 1950 WD fall into the mix Early or late ?    Thanks    

Mark, your WD will use the little F gaskets, If you go back and watch the video again I show how to tell the difference in the F gaskets needed.
Hope this helps.
Don 
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79fordblake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 5:53pm
Geez I hate to even ask this question because I watched the video and I know what it said. But anyway here I go...lol. I had my WD45 block aligned bored so there will be no shims. I ordered the correct NOS "F" gaskets from my Agco dealer. Will they cause an issue using them or do I need to do something else?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Dec 2016 at 11:57am
Line boring shouldn't make any difference. That only removes the shims from the Main Bearing and has nothing to do with the rear seal.

http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79fordblake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Dec 2016 at 12:21pm
So the "F" gaskets won't hold the main cap up giving more clearance?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Dec 2016 at 5:04pm
Hey Blake, please go back and look at the video again at 9:50 to 10:00 I talk about F gaskets and line boring. I talked about the F gaskets in the 170 that don't have shims and still use the F gaskets. If you need more INFO PM me and we can go over more.I'd be happy to help.
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srvpks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2018 at 6:06pm
Thanks for making & posting this video, it's very helpful. I might have missed it in the video but do you apply gasket sealer to the "F" gaskets?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2018 at 11:07pm
Originally posted by srvpks srvpks wrote:

Thanks for making & posting this video, it's very helpful. I might have missed it in the video but do you apply gasket sealer to the "F" gaskets?
No sealer on the F gaskets, just clean and dry.
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srvpks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 7:16pm
Thanks Don!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote New Old Owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov 2019 at 2:20pm
I recently found Don's video when I discovered my front seal leaking. I've had the WD for 1.5 yrs and the PO said he paid to have the rear seal replaced. To replace the front seal do I also need to replace the rear seal? I plan to order parts from Steiner and want to make sure I have everything needed. I don't have an indoor shop so will be replacing it in the elements. Any help/advice appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov 2019 at 8:27pm
No, all you really need to do is pull the radiator out of the way and get the front pulley off. The seal can be removed by using a self tapping screw and prying it out.
 I would advice you check concentricity, between the bore and the crankshaft before installing a new seal. The front cover is not doweled in place, so there is no guarantee it is line up properly, since it can 'float' in the bolt holes.
 There are several ways you can do this. A magnetic base with a dial indicator, mounted on the crankshaft would be great, but most guys don't have these things in their toolbox.
 I know people have turned a short plug so the OD is .002 smaller than the seal bore, then bore the middle out to .002 over the crankshaft diameter, and us it a s a gage or alignment tool.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 23 Nov 2019 at 8:28pm
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov 2019 at 9:10pm
Originally posted by New Old Owner New Old Owner wrote:

I recently found Don's video when I discovered my front seal leaking. I've had the WD for 1.5 yrs and the PO said he paid to have the rear seal replaced. To replace the front seal do I also need to replace the rear seal? I plan to order parts from Steiner and want to make sure I have everything needed. I don't have an indoor shop so will be replacing it in the elements. Any help/advice appreciated.

New Old Owner,
First: Welcome to the forum!
I would ask how bad it the front seal leaking? Sometimes the pain is not worth the gain??
If the PO paid to have the rear seal done, and its not leaking then someone did a good job on it!

I have done a couple of these in different ways. It has gererally been improved when I am done but I would call it a controlled leak after the repairs! Just my 2 cents:)

CTucker has excellent suggestions for the tool to align the crank and housing. 
And no you dont have to do the rear seal when replacing the front one. 
Realize that to do this front seal you may or may not need to have the timing cover loose to move it into alignment with the crank! That could mean more tear down and more room needed to work. If you take the timing cover off you will need the timing cover gasket also. Then I think about the pan gasket corners which are under the timing cover lower corners. Humm. If I were you, I would call and see if Don(MO) would take the time to walk you through the front seal replacement process too. He is very good on these old WD's! It would be well worth your time!

He convinced me that the rear seal work needs to have the engine removed to do it right!

Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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