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Calvin Schmidt 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario Can.
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 Topic: Oil for final drives??
Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 11:37am |
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I was checking an operators manual for a friend who is restoring a black bar grill D-17 D and wanted to know the correct transmission oil. I noticed that it called for 20 W oil in the final drives and that didn't seem right. So after some operators manual surfing this is what I found recomended for final drives. WD 140w above freezing and 90w below, WD-45 90w, D-14-15 -17(series I) 20W, D-17 III & IV 90W. Is this correct and did A-C change the recomendations that much or are there some typos?
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 12:00pm |
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The fact that a series 3 and series 4 D17 were 90wt is a clear indication they must have learned something from using 20W on the older models. One thing is for sure, that oil was always supposed to be CHANGED once a year !!!!!! and maybe AC figured out that wasn't happening and therefore, use 90 wt.....leaks less and probably holds up much better to heat.
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m16ty
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Joined: 28 Jan 2011
Location: TN
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Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 8:37pm |
 DrAllis wrote:
that oil was always supposed to be CHANGED once a year !!!!!! |
I'd say a fair number of tractors running around still have the factory fill in them. The only reason the others got changed is because of a final drive repair. LOL The final drives are a forgotten item on the service schedule. About the only time most people even know they are there is when they start leaking. The amazing thing is most of them have been trouble free for up to 70 years or more.
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MACK
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Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 9:12pm |
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I have taken cover off some WDs and D series that had about a cup of oil ( probly from factory) left in them with no mechanical problem. MACK
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TedBuiskerN.IL.
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Davis, IL.
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Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 9:16pm |
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I use fluid gear grease in mine, the kind that comes in the quart bottle with the squirt spout. Less prone to leakage. Easy to put in.
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DougS
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Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Location: Iowa
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Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 9:23pm |
Bear in mind that today's lubricants are far superior to those of 60 years ago. I use synthetic in my car differential and it is good for the life of the car. The synthetic ATF I use is good for 100,000 miles. The recommended changes for my transmission is otherwise 25,000 miles. Even regular mineral oil today is much much better than that of 60 years ago.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 9:26pm |
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Ted, dont you worry about getting lube to the top bearing ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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m16ty
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Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 9:46pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
Ted, dont you worry about getting lube to the top bearing ? |
Generally you fill the cavity completely full when switching to this type grease. Don't know how you'd do that with a final drive though. I've used JD corn head grease (which is the flowable grease) in slow speed gearboxes before with good results. I haven't tried it in the final drive though.
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Jackson, WI
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Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 9:59pm |
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I haven't done it on one of my tractors yet, but I did see on here once where someone welded plugs in on the bottom, that way you could use a small pan and drain out the old lube, and then put the plug back on and refill it without having to remove the final drive pan. I have been meaning to do that to some of my tractors the next time I change the final drive lube, but havne't done any recently.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 12 Dec 2011 at 9:49am |
Chuck,
I always thought A-C was remiss in not installing plugs at the factory.
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 12 Dec 2011 at 10:01am |
Back to the original question; for which I have no answer, BTW.
I brought this up quite a few years ago regarding the B, C and CA final drive lubricant recomendations.
The B and the CA manuals I have call for 20W year round.
On the other hand, the C manual calls for 140 for temps above 32 and 90 for temps below 32.
Never made any sense to me!
My WC manual is even more drastic; 250 above 32 deg and 140 below 32 deg and change twice a year.
You might want to make sure its a warm day (or you've been workin' her pretty hard)when you drain that 250 Wt. LOL
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Jeff Z. NY
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Posted: 12 Dec 2011 at 3:31pm |
I use this in all the final drive pans.
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I Love Meatballs and Dumplings on Toast with Gravy and Rosemary and ??? {Open For Suggestions}
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Jeff Z. NY
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Posted: 12 Dec 2011 at 3:42pm |
Oops Forgot:
All Year Round.
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I Love Meatballs and Dumplings on Toast with Gravy and Rosemary and ??? {Open For Suggestions}
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
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Posted: 12 Dec 2011 at 4:12pm |
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The WC's had that big cork seal on the hub and I'm sure they leaked from day one and guess they thot 250 would leak less. just my thot.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 12 Dec 2011 at 8:44pm |
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I think today's Hytran 20 wt would be fine in final drives as far as protecting the bearings and gears, but might tend to leak easier in areas prone to seeping.
When I had my WC apart, I looked at adding a grease fitting to lube the top bearing on the pinion shaft but gave up on the idea and put gear lube in the finals.
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