Odd Wheel Rail Clamps on D17

I've been slowly working my way around the D17 IV that I got last year, and I noticed the left rear wheel has a different setup than the right.  The right one is normal with eccentric clamps and a stop.  The eccentrics are bolted to the inner steel wheel with two bolts.  However, the left one has only guides, but no eccentric clamps, and is bolted to the wheel with only a single bolt.  All the thrust is being taken up by the single stop clamp.  I wondered why I would hear a clunking sound sometimes when backing up or on a side hill.

I will need to find a new inner wheel and eccentrics, but I am just curious where the wheel came from?  Or, can I find eccentric clamps that use a single bolt to the wheel?  I will try to get some pictures, but the inner wheel must be AC, but I find it odd that anyone would make guides that follow the rails without eccentric clamps.  I was wondering if anyone knows what other AC model the inner wheel might have come off of.  These are 18.4 X 28 tires on 16" rims.

Thanks.

    D-17IV USE THE SINGLE BOLT SYSTEM  ALSO 190 USE TOO  THE PROEBLEM WILL BE FINDING THE CENTER FOR THE D-17IV EITHER WILL WORK SATISFACTORLY

Thanks to everyone for the help on this.  I still have a question though.  I finally took a photo of one of the left wheel clamps.  It is a little hard to see, but there is no eccentric clamping bolt at all - the clamp just rides on the rail, and the only thing stopping it moving are the two stop clamps running through holes in the rails.



Here is the "normal" two bolt eccentric clamp on the right wheel.


The thing is, the left wheel clunks especially on side hills, as the clamp bangs back and forth against the stops, while the right wheel is tight and secured by the eccentrics (plus its stop clamps). 

It just seems odd to me that there are no eccentrics on the left wheel clamps at all, and that all the force is being taken up by the single stop clamp.  Is this the normal setup for the 1 bolt clamps?

Thanks.

Top pic is for series III and up (even 6000 series uses them).  You have to tighten that nut real tight, but does need the locks (on both sides of it, unless you are on the innermost position).

The single bolt style is still a clamp. It was used through the 8000s. Look closer it is like a ramp, if it is loose it needs tightened or the rails are worn.

I love you guys, but you are losing me here.  What clamp??  On my left wheel, there are really no clamps, just the guides running over the rails, and the stops stopping everything.  There is nothing to loosen or tighten.

What am I missing here?

Eldon,

Thanks.  So you mean I should tighten the big nut holding the clamp to the wheel to tighten things up? 

I apologize for being stupid on this, but I don't see how that would work.

Eldon,

Thanks, and I deeply respect your guidance on this. 

So you mean, I need to tighten the single bolt holding the clamp to the wheel?  I think I am still dense on this.

No offense to the AC engineers working on this design, but I think they might have designed such a thing on a Monday morning after a bad night out.  It doesn't make sense to me to design something that way.

Eldon,

Thanks.  I will look at it in the morning, and see what is going on.  I see what you are saying though.

I prefer the newer style with the one big nut. I've adjusted my D19 and 7050 with those and no troubles. The 7050 is a workout cause there are more and you need a cheater pipe but I've watched a farmer fight with his 4020 with rack-and-pinion. I'm not sure if he ever got them to move. They were slamming the axle with a 16# mall trying to move the worm screw and had been at it all morning. On my 19 and 7050 they never give trouble but you really have to tighten then evenly so the run out on the wheel is minimal. Works well for me. Go look at the spin out wheels on an old IH 450 and you'll see an engineering flub. They never hold well. 

Edited by Lonn - 07 Mar 2012 at 6:28am

Mat iam with you that looks like a stamped steel wheel all the one bolts i have seen are on cast centers and have a wedge cut in the cast that matches the lock a stamped wheel wouldnt have enough wedge to tighten with out bottoming out