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Normal operating temp for a B

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Ranse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Normal operating temp for a B
    Posted: 27 Nov 2017 at 10:37pm
I put the new radiator I got from JimD on the B today. I had a few problems. First, is anyone familiar with those radiator mounting pads? They're little square pieces of rubber about 1/4 inch thick that the radiator sits on. They seemed to make the radiator sit to high. The radiator shell pressed down on top of the over flow tube, no clearance at all. I decided not to use them, even the hoses seemed to line up better without them. These things come from Steiner's and other places and I just wonder if they were ever standard equipment in the first place.
Second, when I turned the engine over, the fan hit the radiator. I took the radiator back off and bent the blades back a bit. This seemed to work, but I hope I didn't mess up the proper air flow.
Last I was worried about the tractor getting to hot, but that wasn't the case. The first number on the gauge is 120, but after running and driving the tractor around about 30 minutes the needle didn't even get that high. Again, this gauge came from Steiner's so I'm not sure how accurate it is. I know it seemed to work the day the tractor over heated, it went all the way in the red then. This may not even be a problem, the cooler the better right? Most things run hotter than 120 I thought, the D10 usually sits on 190 mostly, but its gauge is different than this one.

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theropod View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theropod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2017 at 6:52am
The following is a direct quote from the owners manual for the B.

Quote
Always close radiator shutter completely when engine is started and keep it closed until engine reaches normal operating temperature; then open shutter amount necessary to hold this temperature. If burning low octane fuels, operate engine on gasoline until the temperature reaches 190° F. To 200° F., before switching to low octane fuel.

This is readily done by shutting valve under small tank and opening valve under large tank. Never open valve under large tank before shutting valve under small tank as this will mix the two fuels.

The minimum operating temperatures are 170° F. for gasoline and 190° F. for low octane fuel. 

Strict adherence to these recommendations will guard against excessive dilution of lubricating oil, condensation and corrosion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2017 at 7:27am
easy way to test the gauge..
gently boil up a pot of water, with the wife's candy thermometer in it and your tractor thermometer,
With 'Troy, D-14 #1', the needle goes up to 210 then drops down to 180...all day long. Don't know why and that's after I cleaned the rad, new hose, new and checked stat AND it don't smell 'hot' either AND it always does it. I'll check once Shameless' machine spits white here....
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2017 at 7:35am

Jay

Doesn't the temp go up rather quickly due to the thermostat ?

And then it starts to open slowly and let the cooler / cold coolant mixture start to circulate.

- and also maintain that temp., eg 180'F

Gary
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2017 at 8:43am
120 hints that the thermostat is bad, has absorbed water in the expansion chamber. I've had that happen on other engines.
http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf
says the thermostat for gas engines opens at 135 and for low octane fuel opens at 165.

135 probably is appropriate for alcohol antifreeze but with modern permanent antifreeze, 180 is more appropriate. Getting above 135 would evaporate alcohol, but not permanent antifreeze. Permanent antifreeze raises the boiling temperature of the coolant mix as does a pressurized cooling system. Many an alcohol antifreeze engine has used a 160 or 165 degree thermostat.

120 or 135 isn't going to boil water condensate out of the crankcase oil and water in the oil is hard on bearings, making a shorted battery where the insert is separated from the crankshaft by water and that eats away at the copper or silver of the bearing insert.

180 is a compromise in engine temperature between boiling the coolant and improving engine efficiency. The cooler the cylinder walls and head, the more heat is wasted from combustion hurting engine efficiency. Running much hotter would give better fuel efficiency, but oils to lubricate the cylinder don't do well much hotter. 120 really hurts engine efficiency.

Fix that thermostat.

The shop manual doesn't mention pads under the radiator but shows metal supports.

Gerald J.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2017 at 9:00am
Gary, no the temp just rose to were is at and held. I drove the tractor up and down a steep hill at high throttle for about 30 minutes and it never got any hotter. Everything seemed fine, I just assumed the normal operating temp would be somewhere in the white area on the gauge. The tractor doesn't have shutters, and I was even running it without any sheet metal on it. That could have made it run a little cooler I guess. It's certainly better than over heating, but I was just wondering if running it cool could be causing any harm?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2017 at 9:11am
Last one I did, used old truck inner tube material as pads provided were too thick. Cut pieces out with good shop shears and still get a bit of "anti-vibration" protection, no problems yet and everything clears.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HoughMade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2017 at 9:11am
I think I have the same temp gauge.  Mine gets into the green and stays there, but takes 15 or more minutes to get there.  It is northern Indiana and around 30 degrees in the morning when I am usually running it and I don't have shutters.  I haven't had a chance to run it in warm temps yet and when my Dad had this B, the gauge was messed up and not working (why I got the new one).

Edited by HoughMade - 28 Nov 2017 at 9:12am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2017 at 3:18pm
Generally they will always run on the cold side.  The AC engineers designed in a bit of overkill in the cooling system. You'll have to work it pretty hard to get it up into the green without shutters. Also the factory thermostat for gasoline was 160 degrees and 170 for "tractor fuel"   Even if you put a new 180 degree thermostat in one you'll find it will barely get there with everything in good condition.  These tractors were made to work all day, and if you only puttering around, it'll need help to get to operating temperature.  
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2017 at 6:05pm
Thanks Gerald! That's what I needed to know, and you explained it well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2017 at 7:17pm
I had to replace the radiator on mine a couple of years ago.  I used the two square rubber pads at the bottom of the radiator with no alignment problems.  I also installed all new hoses at the time.  Never really paid much attention to the operating temp, I always figured somewhere in the green on the gauge was good enough. - Brad


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1939Dodge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov 2017 at 4:42pm
My 1939 B runs Luke warm. No thermostat or shutters. I'm going to put a canvas across the inlet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov 2017 at 11:38pm
Rance a cold running engine will wear the cylinders at a faster rate. Believe it or not the hotter you can run them without boiling they will not only be more efficient but last longer. I think testing how accurate your gauge is, is the best idea to start with. I've heard complaints about the gauges made in China, but don't know myself.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov 2017 at 11:40pm
I forgot to mention that a cold running engine will be a very dirty engine when you open them up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2017 at 12:25am
Leon, In that case my '51 Chevy should last forever! Seems it's always running at 212 degrees, if I'm under 40 mph or over 50 mph. 
If I'm careful with how I accelerate, I can generally keep it around 180, though. I never worry about it running cold, for sure. 

Before I put shutters on my B, it would always run cold. I need to test the gauge though. The PO put it on, and without the shutters, it never got into the green. Ever. Even when running my All-Crop 60A in milo. Now that I've got the shutters, if I'm careful, I can regulate it so the temp hangs around the middle of the green zone. 
That's one place where Deere had a good idea...control the shutters from the operator's seat...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 7:05pm
I tried to put a new thermostat in the B today. I ran into some problems due to some previous jerry rigging. First of all, there wasn't a thermostat in it. I guess that explains why it was running cool. I got a few questions, but first I want to apologize for the photos. They are sideways, I don't know why they show up like this, nor can I figure out a way to fix it. It was either post them like this or use photo bucket, and I didn't want to deal with that.



First I believe the housing should be held on with 2 long bolts. Someone used all-thread rod(one 2 inch longer than the other)and 2 nuts at the top. This is minor of coarse, but the rods seemed tight. I hope the holes aren't striped out and they JB welded them in.



Next this plate was between the housing and head. It's obviously home made, but necessary, without it there would be a big opening under the housing.



I think this is not the correct thermostat housing for this tractor. The recess for the thermostat is at the top, but I can't understand what holds it up there. Most thermostats I've installed the recess was in the bottom and they just sat in.



This is the thermostat I got at the part store. It's supposed to be for a B. It has the thermostat, a thick rubber washer, and a brass ring. The brass ring won't even go inside the housing. Since there was nothing in the housing, I have nothing to compare. I'm not sure if I got the right stuff or not, nor how it goes back in.



I believe someone put a different housing on this tractor and made that plate so it would work. I can put it back together the way it was, but I'm not sure if it is possible to install a thermostat with this setup. Any advice is welcome, and I hope y'all can make out my pics. Thanks Ranse.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 7:54pm
I’ve wondered the same about my wd45 it never has gotten to the green even after pulling a drag around for 2 hours
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theropod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 8:08pm
The housing on my 38 doesn’t look anything like that, and two 1.25” long x 5/16” diameter (?) bolts with lock washers afix it to the head. Mine is a match for the area on the head where it bolts down and doesn’t overhang toward the radiator/fan like that. I discovered that my tractor does not have a thermostat either yesterday when I was halfway flushing it prior to getting it to run. Unless the thermostat fits in the hose somehow I cannot fathom how one would be installed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave H (NE) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 8:22pm
The gasket, thermostat, and spring are held up in the housing by the adapter plate. The parts book shows this. Your are missing the spring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theropod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 8:36pm
Originally posted by Dave H (NE) Dave H (NE) wrote:

The gasket, thermostat, and spring are held up in the housing by the adapter plate. The parts book shows this. Your are missing the spring.

What about my 38? My housing is a tower looking thing with a squarish opening that matches the head outlet. The base is a match for the mounting point and doesn’t widen out. In the video I shot yesterday of my first run after the mag was installed, at the 20 second mark, one can see mine. It looks nothing like this. The water temp gauge hole isn’t drilled.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 8:50pm
Theropod, yours does appear to be different. I don't have a parts book, but I have a service manual. It's the same book Gerald has a link to above. It shows a housing very similar to mine, but it doesn't appear to hang over the mounting area like mine. It does not show what's inside. That's what I need to see, I may be missing more than just a spring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 8:56pm
As I recall, the thermostat in Ford 9N, 2N, and 8N did mount inside the upper radiator hose that was straight. If the hose size was right it would be an easy addition to an AC tractor.

Apple products take pictures at a couple orientations and include a tag in the digital picture for which way was down when the picture was taken and apple devices and computers understand that and display the picture bottom down. Windoze PCs don't know that and so display the pictures on their sides much of the time. GIMP is a PC program (windoze and linux) that does notice the rotation and the flag and offers to correct the picture orientation as soon as the picture is loaded. Photo shop may have that capability, but I've never used it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 10:32pm
Originally posted by Gerald J. Gerald J. wrote:

As I recall, the thermostat in Ford 9N, 2N, and 8N did mount inside the upper radiator hose that was straight. If the hose size was right it would be an easy addition to an AC tractor.

Gerald J.


A thermostat from an N might work, but it would be awfully tight in that short distance of hose on the B. The factory thermostats on the Ns were pretty long and tubular, but the new ones are quite a bit shorter. I'm doubtful it would work, but it would help to call Steiner or somewhere and get a measurement first. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HoughMade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 10:36pm
You are missing the 2 inch wide spring that holds the thermostat at the top.

The thermostat Steiner sells is the same one as the 9N, but it comes with a gasket for the Ford only, throw the gasket away. Buy the spring separately if you have the thermostat. Here is what you need:



Edited by HoughMade - 03 Dec 2017 at 10:42pm
1951 B
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theropod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 3:54pm

OK, here is what is supposed to be the thermostat housing on my B. I have not seen one anywhere that matches mine. I don't see how a thermostat could fit in this at all. It would have to be placed inside the upper hose somehow, and I don't have a clue how that would work.


Edited by theropod - 04 Dec 2017 at 3:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 4:00pm
I agree, that's totally unlike mine. Mine has a housing for a thermostat, but no thermostat installed. I could put one in, but I just use the shutters. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theropod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 5:13pm
Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:

I agree, that's totally unlike mine. Mine has a housing for a thermostat, but no thermostat installed. I could put one in, but I just use the shutters. 

I suppose that is what I’ll have to do too, but my shutters are long gone. I’m thinking a canvas shroud like trucks use up north in winter might work. Trouble is my B doesn’t even have a place for a temperature gauge. Perhaps putting a gauge where the little block drain is would work. Not sure about the thread pattern there, or how I would drain the block if I fill that hole. There is not a lot of room behind the carb! Maybe I should drill out that odd not-a-thermostat housing and tap it for a gauge. I sure don’t want to bake the engine after all the work I have put into bringing it back to life.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 6:02pm
Maybe drill and tap a hole in the top of that cast iron housing? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drobCA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 7:26pm
yeah, yeah these pictures are horrible.  will replace them them tomorrow with the hood off and in the light.  but meantime, here's how my 41 B arrived to me - same housing as Ranse's - and I am eager to see what his hood looks like.
sure hope not like mine - he must have used one of those old hook-type canopeners to cut the hole.
 
(deleted pix)


Edited by drobCA - 05 Dec 2017 at 12:05pm
3 Ford 8N's I loan to neighbors, but the '52CA, '41B and little B1 I do not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theropod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 8:04pm
Originally posted by drobCA drobCA wrote:

yeah, yeah these pictures are horrible.  will replace them them tomorrow with the hood off and in the light.  but meantime, here's how my 41 B arrived to me - same housing as Ranse's - and I am eager to see what his hood looks like.
sure hope not like mine - he must have used one of those old hook-type canopeners to cut the hole.


A hole saw would have done that job so easily.
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