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Non-Orange Why no spark ??

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SGTJ View Drop Down
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Joined: 15 Apr 2019
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SGTJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Non-Orange Why no spark ??
    Posted: 22 May 2021 at 10:10pm
Here’s the situation:

Did some rear end work on my Oliver 1600 - went to fire it up after putting it back together and I have no spark.

Converted to electronic ignition
Have power to the coil, but nothing past that.

I’ve replaced the following


Electronic ignition module , coil, spark plugs, wires , rotor , distributor cap

Still no spark


What the heck am I missing
WD , CA
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Wispitfiremike View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wispitfiremike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2021 at 10:14pm
I know nothing of Oliver tractors but maybe  you disturbed a ground wire?
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Boss Man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boss Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2021 at 10:54am
power to the coil tested with a meter or test light? Had power to a fuel solenoid once according to a meter but wasnt getting enough amps to run a test light.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2021 at 3:49pm
Jon, like you said , it is a pretty simple circuit... 12 volts from the battery to the coil.. coil output ( 12 volts) goes to the point... point opens and closes  ( grounds out) and the condenser with the point cause the coil HIGH SIDE) to spark... 

All you have done is replace the point and condenser (?) with an electronic box ( ignition module)... You should still have 12 volts INTO the coil, and 12 volts OUT OF THE COIL and into the module as you crank the motor.. If your not getting that  PULSE, then the coil will not fire ... somehow the module has to ground the 12 volts as the distributor rotates.. I assume that is an external wire.

If you are seeing the 12 volt PULSE ( on - off- on) as you rotate the motor then the module is probablay working.. time to look at the coil to see if it is putting out a SPARK on the high side... you can bypass the distributor cap by putting a spark plug in the coil OUTLET HEAVY WIRE that goes to the cap.. That way the plug will fire  4 times  ( for all 4 plugs)...

LIke you said, its not that complicated.. Probably something simple overlooked.


Edited by steve(ill) - 23 May 2021 at 10:31pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2021 at 9:27pm
He said it was converted to electronic invitation so no points or condenser.
I would say you need to check with Co. that sold it or manufactured it.             MACK
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SGTJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SGTJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2021 at 6:45am
I just broke down an bought a whole new conversion kit from Steiner - the odds of me having two bad ignition modules is pretty low in my opinion,   But I’ll just go ahead and get a third one
WD , CA
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rw View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2021 at 6:57am
Be sure you have the reluctor fastened to the rotor so it is passing the pickup coil. One install I did had an issue with the reluctor fitting the rotor.
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2021 at 7:00am
A brand new E.I. that doesn't work right out of the box is highly unlikely being they check each unit before its boxed. With E.I.'s, you need to run carbon core ignition wires to make sure the solid core wires don't "spike" the module and blow it out. If the wires you installed are carbon core, you should be fine. I would check the ignition switch to make sure a solid 12V's is going to the coil. With the engine cranking, you're going to lose some current to the ignition system because the Starter motor takes a lot of amperage in the crank mode. As long as you have more than 4-5V's going to the E.I., it should fire off. If the Ignition switch has an issue where it 's not suppling current to the coil in the crank mode, if its below 4V's, the ignitor won't fire off.  I've seen many problems where the ignition switch was the culprit where it wouldn't feed the coil enough current in the crank mode.  If you reinstall the points/condenser, do you have the same problem? If you have the same senario, could be the ignition switch.  HTH
Steve@B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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SGTJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SGTJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2021 at 8:39am
Thanks for the info !   I bought it with the EI installed already, so I don’t have the points.   I still have power when I’m cranking, and I’ve even bypassed the ignition switch entirely by running a line from the starter.
WD , CA
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Stan R View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan R Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2021 at 9:45am
My EI conversion didn't work..... until I realized I had to push the magnetic sleeve farther down onto the distributor shaft (felt it click in place). D17 IV tractor.
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