This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


NH rake gearbox

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
Ranse View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Tennessee
Points: 775
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: NH rake gearbox
    Posted: 02 Apr 2019 at 7:34pm
My New Holland 258 roll bar rake quit working last. I need to get it fixed pretty soon. I'll be cutting hay before you know it.

I could hear the gears slipping. As you can see, this shaft that holds the star has some back and forth movement. I believe it needs to be inside the gearbox more. I can pull it in some by hand, but it slops back outward.



I don't believe the hub the star bolts to comes off, but I'm not certain. I think this gear has to come off to get the shaft out of the gearbox. I'm not sure what holds the gear on, no visible signs of a lock ring. Maybe I can drive the shaft out from the inside.



Bearing in large hole on the right is totally shot. Bearing in the smaller hole on left seems ok, but I think I'll replace it as well.



I'm not sure if replacing all three bearings will tighten things up enough to keep the gears from slipping or not. The gears look rough and have visible wear on them, but I hope they are good enough.



I think the dealer said the gears were available, but they would have to order them. I need a diagram to see how that shaft comes a part. I believe there will need to be shims behind that one gear so it will engage the other gear deeper. I just like the see what you all think, thanks.
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
JoeM(GA) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Cumming,GA
Points: 4779
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeM(GA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2019 at 8:26pm
Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB
Back to Top
Ranse View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Tennessee
Points: 775
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2019 at 9:14pm
Thanks Joe, I was going to have the dealer print me a diagram when I got parts. According to the diagram on that site, I was wrong. the gear stays on the shaft and the hub must come off. I didn't see the nut and washer on mine. It must be behind the star plate that the bars attach to. That's not good, if that gear is to bad, I will need to buy the shaft/gear together.
Back to Top
Gary Burnett View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Virginia
Points: 3046
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 5:51am
I replaced the bearings in one of my NH 256 rakes a couple years ago and that tightened everything up just fine,but I stopped using the rake as soon I saw a problem the longer you run it the more expensive damage it'll do.Looks like there wasn't any oil in the box either.If you have to replace everything it'll get real $$$$$$$.
Back to Top
CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22824
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 8:30am
20 20 hindsight, says a little lube might have gone a long way in saving that mess. It looks to me like that one gear is beyond use.
 Maybe, with all new bearings, some gear lube, and a lot of luck, you could rake another 20 acres with it.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
Back to Top
Tbone95 View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 31 Aug 2012
Location: Michigan
Points: 12054
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 9:48am
X whatever on the lube.....why was this run so dry so long?  Yikes!
Back to Top
nella(Pa) View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Allentown, Pa.
Points: 3114
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nella(Pa) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 10:31am
I rebuilt a neighbor's and it took all bearings, seal and a speedy sleeve on the shaft. It looks like water and no oil caused your problem, my neighbor had the same but not as bad. I got the parts cheapest on Ebay. That one gear looks pretty bad.
Back to Top
JC-WI View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
Points: 34273
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 11:46am
Tbone, because the seal on the bottom on the input shaft is used to hold all the oil in and once it starts leaking, it don't stop.... till the case is empty... and nobody checks it cuzz... they has hay to make an no time to check. 
 I rebuilt my rake's gearbox some 25 years ago and I welded up all the teeth, infact , had to rebuild at least 3 that were totally gone. Then took the grinder and ground the welds back down to size and used a new Nicolson Black diamond file with a jig welded on the back side to give a 'final' fit to the tooth. Had to grind some off the file on the back side edge to fit down in the groove between the teeth.
 The strap/jig ran on the back side of the tooth where it was not worn to help make the correct angle. worked good until the three missing needed to be formed. Then I shaved a piece of wood to fit between two good teeth to check as I filed the backside of the 'new' tooth then filed the the front side and progressed that way, one tooth at a time for those three. and of course, had to test fit them before putting in the gear box.
 After I had the gears done, I got new bearings and seals.  Then I drilled the gear box and tapped it for grease fittings between lower seal and bearing, between the bearing on the output shaft and one through the case at the top for upper bearing. greased it and filled with oil too  ... and you will not find another gearbox with fittings on it like this unless somebody else has done it too... nor the big universal joint either. Wink
He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
Back to Top
Tbone95 View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 31 Aug 2012
Location: Michigan
Points: 12054
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 11:52am
Originally posted by JC(WI) JC(WI) wrote:

Tbone, because the seal on the bottom on the input shaft is used to hold all the oil in and once it starts leaking, it don't stop.... till the case is empty... and nobody checks it cuzz... they has hay to make an no time to check. 
 I rebuilt my rake's gearbox some 25 years ago and I welded up all the teeth, infact , had to rebuild at least 3 that were totally gone. Then took the grinder and ground the welds back down to size and used a new Nicolson Black diamond file with a jig welded on the back side to give a 'final' fit to the tooth. Had to grind some off the file on the back side edge to fit down in the groove between the teeth.
 The strap/jig ran on the back side of the tooth where it was not worn to help make the correct angle. worked good until the three missing needed to be formed. Then I shaved a piece of wood to fit between two good teeth to check as I filed the backside of the 'new' tooth then filed the the front side and progressed that way, one tooth at a time for those three. and of course, had to test fit them before putting in the gear box.
 After I had the gears done, I got new bearings and seals.  Then I drilled the gear box and tapped it for grease fittings between lower seal and bearing, between the bearing on the output shaft and one through the case at the top for upper bearing. greased it and filled with oil too  ... and you will not find another gearbox with fittings on it like this unless somebody else has done it too... nor the big universal joint either. Wink
Um.....Well, yessir!  I own 2 of them, so I know "how" it can happen.  But "why" was it allowed to stay like that.....er....Well yeah, you gotta make hay when the sun shines.  Until ya' can't because the equipment is shot. 
 
I meant no offense to Ranse. 
Back to Top
JC-WI View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
Points: 34273
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 1:41pm
Craig, that gear box is probably one of the least looked at items on all the machines that is easy to get to. Yea, dump oil in until it comes out the check hole and think it's ready for the season when it probably was dry before the hay was all raked... and didn't get looked at for the rest of the season.
 And it seems people don't think it takes much pressure to rake hay either on them gears but when rolling two heavy swaths together it does.   And then some have the rake teeth down on the ground causing even more resistance and pressure on the gears. 
 ...And I was just commenting at your statement as in a general way of how it happens... and after this rebuild of the gearbox, He will pay special attention to it from now on.  I know I do. LOL.... Disapprove Well now that reminds me, I need to get new wheel bushings down on the hubs... Thanks  Unhappy 
He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
Back to Top
Gary Burnett View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Virginia
Points: 3046
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 3:12pm
I packed mine full of corn head grease been working fine.Could add a little gear oil to thin a bit but still not run out.
Back to Top
ebowman View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 06 Sep 2018
Location: Kirklin, IN
Points: 161
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ebowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 3:24pm
i believe New Holland says to fill them full of grease. That is probably their fix to a design  problem
WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler
Back to Top
DiyDave View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 53612
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 5:55pm
Did mine, about 10 years ago. just did the 2 bearings, and the shaft to the reel.  Bad news is, you have to take the LH spider off, that means all bearings that are rusted onto it, need to be R&R'd, too.  I blindly forged ahead, with mine, when the new parts arrived, the gear is a press fit, to the shaft, bearings went in smoothly, had already drilled it fer grease fittings, so they was installed prior to the arrival of parts.  All in a sweat, I assembled everything, cause I gots hay on the ground, and bad weather looming.  Pumped in a couple tubes of grease, hopped on the tractor, and headed to the field, 1/2 mile away.  Had it in gear, and seemed to be running good, pulled into the field, thinking I had this licked, if I just had enough time afore the storms arrived!  Much to my dismay, it raked for about a hundred feet, and quit!  

Man was I PO'd. back up the hill, to dismantle, again, and see WTF was going on with them expensive innards!  Took it all apart, and the shaft that NH had sold me had just 2 spots, about 180ยบ away, where it was of sufficient diameter, to grab the gear, when you press the gear on!  Got all the grease out, shaft and gear cleaned, and off to the shop, to cook some bacon wif the mig welder.  Buzzed a bead around the inside end of the gear, after a few hammer licks, to make it straight.  Another 4 hrs or so of assembly, fighting to re-attach the bearings on the spider, from the rake bars.  This time the old grease that had just come out, got shoved back in by the double handful!  Did finally get to bale that hay, but it sure weren't worth alla that work!

Lesson learned is, make sure you inspect parts, at the dealer!Wink
Back to Top
Ranse View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Tennessee
Points: 775
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 9:18pm
No offense taken Tbone95. You don't have to worry about leaks if there's not any oil in it. Seriously though, I know what caused the problem. I just need to fix it. I believe I will replace the gear on the shaft. I don't want to take a chance on getting it back together and it still slip. The other gear I will take a chance on it. It won't be to much trouble to take back out if I have to. I'm going to try to take off the star/spider (what ever it's called) and leave the bars attached. I got into taking those bars out last year to replace bearings in them. They are a fight to get back in. I would have swore those bars were 3 inches to short if I hadn't been the one that took them out.

JC(WI), those grease fittings are a good idea. I probably won't go to that much trouble on this old rake. It ran a long time without any oil. It should last a while with some, at least until the rest of it falls apart.
Back to Top
Hurst View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Midway, Ky
Points: 1215
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 10:02pm
See if this link works.  You have to call and order, but they took check last time I ordered a whole new bar for our 256 a couple years back now.  Very reasonable on prices, and some of their parts are actually an improved design over OEM.  

1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
Back to Top
Tbone95 View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 31 Aug 2012
Location: Michigan
Points: 12054
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2019 at 7:40am
Well I know one thing.  I'm going to double check the boxes on mine for lube before this coming haying season!Big smile
Back to Top
Ranse View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Tennessee
Points: 775
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2019 at 7:48pm
All disassembled, old bearings and races out, empty housing all cleaned up inside and out waiting on new parts. All old bearings fell apart when removed, even the one I thought was still good.



I'm still uncertain about using this shaft/gear. I didn't clean it up completely, but it looks better than I originally thought. You can still see it has some wear.

Back to Top
nella(Pa) View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Allentown, Pa.
Points: 3114
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nella(Pa) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 5:28am
You might want to wire brush or blast those gears to get rid of the rust.
Back to Top
Allis dave View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 3015
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 8:00am
If you replace one gear, you really should replace both. unmatched will make them wear unevenly and wear out faster. 
Back to Top
Tbone95 View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 31 Aug 2012
Location: Michigan
Points: 12054
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 8:02am
I think a good cleanup on that and it might be OK.  Doesn't look as bad as it did at first.
Back to Top
BigGuy1000 View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 06 Dec 2013
Location: NWIL
Points: 127
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BigGuy1000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 11:28am
The original cause of the problem is the plug with a cotter pin sticking out of the plug which you can see in the picture!!!  Throw it away, it funnels rain into the gearbox!!!  Instead get a hydrophobic vent pipeplug(from McMaster, etc. has a filter that allows air but not water)!!!  And thanks to the id___ at NH for designing this!!!!  Then fill with corn head grease.


Back to Top
JC-WI View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
Points: 34273
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 12:41pm
Big Guy is right about that filler/vent plug.  Never liked it but for the fact... and never did anything about it either than had a a piece of old rubber tubing wired on over it years ago... which when it disappeared, it was forgotten. Think I will drill and tap the back plate at the highest point and put a small elbow fitting in there for vent and plug the plug's hole.
He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
Back to Top
Ranse View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Tennessee
Points: 775
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 7:56pm
The plug with the cotter pin is not mine. Someone else posted that picture.

I thought the plate already had a vent hole. I always assumed this hole was factory. It's perfectly round. I figured it wasn't punched all the way thru intentionally, so the little flap of steel would serve as a rain guard. I never really paid much attention to it before. On closer inspection, I think something else might have done it. Does anyone else have this hole in yours?





I may need to peck it down and put a little weld inside it.
Back to Top
DiyDave View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 53612
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 9:01pm
Aint no bullet hole, through the other side?  If not, might be a gear tooth got spat out...Wink
Back to Top
JC-WI View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
Points: 34273
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 1:34am
Too round of a hole, Looks like it definitely was a punched hole ...
and way to low to really run oil up to the rake spindle bearings and top bearing. jmo, it should have been higher.   Your inside cover picture shows how water was sitting down there and rusting the back plate.
He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
Back to Top
nella(Pa) View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Allentown, Pa.
Points: 3114
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nella(Pa) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 5:36am
Put a 90 degree street elbow in the fill hole and put the plug with a cotter pin in it into the street elbow and that should keep the rain water out of the great box, or you could put in a 90 degree grease plug that doesn't have the ball and spring inside of it. 

Edited by nella(Pa) - 06 Apr 2019 at 5:59am
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.063 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum