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NH rake gearbox |
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Ranse ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Mar 2016 Location: Tennessee Points: 775 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 02 Apr 2019 at 7:34pm |
My New Holland 258 roll bar rake quit working last. I need to get it fixed pretty soon. I'll be cutting hay before you know it.
I could hear the gears slipping. As you can see, this shaft that holds the star has some back and forth movement. I believe it needs to be inside the gearbox more. I can pull it in some by hand, but it slops back outward. ![]() I don't believe the hub the star bolts to comes off, but I'm not certain. I think this gear has to come off to get the shaft out of the gearbox. I'm not sure what holds the gear on, no visible signs of a lock ring. Maybe I can drive the shaft out from the inside. ![]() Bearing in large hole on the right is totally shot. Bearing in the smaller hole on left seems ok, but I think I'll replace it as well. ![]() I'm not sure if replacing all three bearings will tighten things up enough to keep the gears from slipping or not. The gears look rough and have visible wear on them, but I hope they are good enough. ![]() I think the dealer said the gears were available, but they would have to order them. I need a diagram to see how that shaft comes a part. I believe there will need to be shims behind that one gear so it will engage the other gear deeper. I just like the see what you all think, thanks. |
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JoeM(GA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Cumming,GA Points: 4779 |
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Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB |
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Ranse ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Mar 2016 Location: Tennessee Points: 775 |
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Thanks Joe, I was going to have the dealer print me a diagram when I got parts. According to the diagram on that site, I was wrong. the gear stays on the shaft and the hub must come off. I didn't see the nut and washer on mine. It must be behind the star plate that the bars attach to. That's not good, if that gear is to bad, I will need to buy the shaft/gear together.
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Gary Burnett ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3046 |
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I replaced the bearings in one of my NH 256 rakes a couple years ago and that tightened everything up just fine,but I stopped using the rake as soon I saw a problem the longer you run it the more expensive damage it'll do.Looks like there wasn't any oil in the box either.If you have to replace everything it'll get real $$$$$$$.
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22824 |
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20 20 hindsight, says a little lube might have gone a long way in saving that mess. It looks to me like that one gear is beyond use.
Maybe, with all new bearings, some gear lube, and a lot of luck, you could rake another 20 acres with it. |
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12054 |
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X whatever on the lube.....why was this run so dry so long? Yikes!
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nella(Pa) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Allentown, Pa. Points: 3114 |
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I rebuilt a neighbor's and it took all bearings, seal and a speedy sleeve on the shaft. It looks like water and no oil caused your problem, my neighbor had the same but not as bad. I got the parts cheapest on Ebay. That one gear looks pretty bad.
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JC-WI ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34273 |
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Tbone, because the seal on the bottom on the input shaft is used to hold
all the oil in and once it starts leaking, it don't stop.... till the
case is empty... and nobody checks it cuzz... they has hay to make an no time to check. I rebuilt my rake's gearbox some 25
years ago and I welded up all the teeth, infact , had to rebuild at
least 3 that were totally gone. Then took the grinder and ground the
welds back down to size and used a new Nicolson Black diamond file with a
jig welded on the back side to give a 'final' fit to the tooth. Had to
grind some off the file on the back side edge to fit down in the groove
between the teeth. The strap/jig ran on the back side of
the tooth where it was not worn to help make the correct angle. worked
good until the three missing needed to be formed. Then I shaved a piece
of wood to fit between two good teeth to check as I filed the backside of the 'new' tooth then filed the the front side and progressed that way, one tooth
at a time for those three. and of course, had to test fit them before
putting in the gear box. After I had the gears done, I
got new bearings and seals. Then I drilled the gear box and tapped it
for grease fittings between lower seal and bearing, between the bearing
on the output shaft and one through the case at the top for upper
bearing. greased it and filled with oil too ... and you will not find another gearbox with fittings on
it like this unless somebody else has done it too... nor the big
universal joint either. ![]() ![]() |
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12054 |
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Um.....Well, yessir! I own 2 of them, so I know "how" it can happen. But "why" was it allowed to stay like that.....er....Well yeah, you gotta make hay when the sun shines. Until ya' can't because the equipment is shot. I meant no offense to Ranse.
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JC-WI ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34273 |
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Craig, that gear box is probably one of the least looked at items on
all the machines that is easy to get to. Yea, dump oil in until it comes
out the check hole and think it's ready for the season when it
probably was dry before the hay was all raked... and didn't get looked
at for the rest of the season. And it seems people don't
think it takes much pressure to rake hay either on them gears but when
rolling two heavy swaths together it does. And then some have the
rake teeth down on the ground causing even more resistance and pressure on
the gears. ...And I was just commenting at your statement
as in a general way of how it happens... and after this rebuild of the
gearbox, He will pay special attention to it from now on. I know I do. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
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Gary Burnett ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3046 |
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I packed mine full of corn head grease been working fine.Could add a little gear oil to thin a bit but still not run out.
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ebowman ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 06 Sep 2018 Location: Kirklin, IN Points: 161 |
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i believe New Holland says to fill them full of grease. That is probably their fix to a design problem
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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53612 |
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Did mine, about 10 years ago. just did the 2 bearings, and the shaft to the reel. Bad news is, you have to take the LH spider off, that means all bearings that are rusted onto it, need to be R&R'd, too. I blindly forged ahead, with mine, when the new parts arrived, the gear is a press fit, to the shaft, bearings went in smoothly, had already drilled it fer grease fittings, so they was installed prior to the arrival of parts. All in a sweat, I assembled everything, cause I gots hay on the ground, and bad weather looming. Pumped in a couple tubes of grease, hopped on the tractor, and headed to the field, 1/2 mile away. Had it in gear, and seemed to be running good, pulled into the field, thinking I had this licked, if I just had enough time afore the storms arrived! Much to my dismay, it raked for about a hundred feet, and quit!
Man was I PO'd. back up the hill, to dismantle, again, and see WTF was going on with them expensive innards! Took it all apart, and the shaft that NH had sold me had just 2 spots, about 180ยบ away, where it was of sufficient diameter, to grab the gear, when you press the gear on! Got all the grease out, shaft and gear cleaned, and off to the shop, to cook some bacon wif the mig welder. Buzzed a bead around the inside end of the gear, after a few hammer licks, to make it straight. Another 4 hrs or so of assembly, fighting to re-attach the bearings on the spider, from the rake bars. This time the old grease that had just come out, got shoved back in by the double handful! Did finally get to bale that hay, but it sure weren't worth alla that work! Lesson learned is, make sure you inspect parts, at the dealer!
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Ranse ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Mar 2016 Location: Tennessee Points: 775 |
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No offense taken Tbone95. You don't have to worry about leaks if there's not any oil in it. Seriously though, I know what caused the problem. I just need to fix it. I believe I will replace the gear on the shaft. I don't want to take a chance on getting it back together and it still slip. The other gear I will take a chance on it. It won't be to much trouble to take back out if I have to. I'm going to try to take off the star/spider (what ever it's called) and leave the bars attached. I got into taking those bars out last year to replace bearings in them. They are a fight to get back in. I would have swore those bars were 3 inches to short if I hadn't been the one that took them out.
JC(WI), those grease fittings are a good idea. I probably won't go to that much trouble on this old rake. It ran a long time without any oil. It should last a while with some, at least until the rest of it falls apart. |
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Hurst ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Midway, Ky Points: 1215 |
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See if this link works. You have to call and order, but they took check last time I ordered a whole new bar for our 256 a couple years back now. Very reasonable on prices, and some of their parts are actually an improved design over OEM.
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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12054 |
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Well I know one thing. I'm going to double check the boxes on mine for lube before this coming haying season!
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Ranse ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Mar 2016 Location: Tennessee Points: 775 |
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All disassembled, old bearings and races out, empty housing all cleaned up inside and out waiting on new parts. All old bearings fell apart when removed, even the one I thought was still good.
![]() I'm still uncertain about using this shaft/gear. I didn't clean it up completely, but it looks better than I originally thought. You can still see it has some wear. ![]() |
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nella(Pa) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Allentown, Pa. Points: 3114 |
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You might want to wire brush or blast those gears to get rid of the rust.
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 3015 |
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If you replace one gear, you really should replace both. unmatched will make them wear unevenly and wear out faster.
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12054 |
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I think a good cleanup on that and it might be OK. Doesn't look as bad as it did at first.
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BigGuy1000 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 06 Dec 2013 Location: NWIL Points: 127 |
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The original cause of the problem is the plug with a cotter pin sticking out of the plug which you can see in the picture!!! Throw it away, it funnels rain into the gearbox!!! Instead get a hydrophobic vent pipeplug(from McMaster, etc. has a filter that allows air but not water)!!! And thanks to the id___ at NH for designing this!!!! Then fill with corn head grease.
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JC-WI ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34273 |
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Big Guy is right about that filler/vent plug. Never liked it but for the fact... and never did anything about it either than had a a piece of old rubber tubing wired on over it years ago... which when it disappeared, it was forgotten. Think I will drill and tap the back plate at the highest point and put a small elbow fitting in there for vent and plug the plug's hole.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
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Ranse ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Mar 2016 Location: Tennessee Points: 775 |
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The plug with the cotter pin is not mine. Someone else posted that picture.
I thought the plate already had a vent hole. I always assumed this hole was factory. It's perfectly round. I figured it wasn't punched all the way thru intentionally, so the little flap of steel would serve as a rain guard. I never really paid much attention to it before. On closer inspection, I think something else might have done it. Does anyone else have this hole in yours? ![]() ![]() I may need to peck it down and put a little weld inside it. |
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53612 |
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Aint no bullet hole, through the other side? If not, might be a gear tooth got spat out...
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JC-WI ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34273 |
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Too round of a hole, Looks like it definitely was a punched hole ... and way to low to really run oil up to the rake spindle bearings and top bearing. jmo, it should have been higher. Your inside cover picture shows how water was sitting down there and rusting the back plate.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
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nella(Pa) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Allentown, Pa. Points: 3114 |
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Put a 90 degree street elbow in the fill hole and put the plug with a cotter pin in it into the street elbow and that should keep the rain water out of the great box, or you could put in a 90 degree grease plug that doesn't have the ball and spring inside of it.
Edited by nella(Pa) - 06 Apr 2019 at 5:59am |
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