New to the forum, new to tractors...

Hello everyone!

I was born and raised in a farming community, but never worked on a farm, much to my dismay now.  Recently, I was given, yes given, an Allis D-14 with a seized motor.

I've worked on cars, motorcycles, and some fire engines, but never tractors.  So, I decided to dive head first into this project.  Day one consisted of seeing if everything was complete/there.  Check.  Nothing missing.

Day two, I tried to turn the crank by hand.  No luck.  So, I used the Marvel Mystery Oil; still no luck.

Day three, I took the head off and found two pistons seized in the sleeves.  I drained all the oil and dropped the pan. 

Just yesterday I pulled all the pistons and sleeves.  I made my own sleeve puller (I have a vertical mill and lathe in my shop...I'm a gunsmith by trade...) which worked well.  Now, all the parts are on order and should be in Saturday.

Couple things that I still need though:
1. Both rear wheels are pretty well rust rotted, so I'm guessing new wheels?
2. The rear tires are nylon, cracked, dry rotted, etc.  I've heard you can get tube or tubeless.  Not sure what the advantages or disadvantages are...any help?
3. I'm very unfamiliar with hitches.  Three point, standard, etc.  I know nothing.  What does the D14 have?  I've seen conversions from $300 - 1300. 

I'm mainly going to use this for mowing brush/tall weeds down at my family's property, spraying a few farm trails, grading the driveway, and possibly pulling a hay wagon (for my three kids in the fall.)

Any help or recommendations on my questions is greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

welcome to the forum.  if ya take a picture of the hitch ya have it'll help us know what ya got.  as stated above wheels can be patched, if ya are gonna buy wheel/tires maybe get a set of 28 inch rims.  tires/tubes are cheaper.  I run tubed tires, cause of loading them with fluid.

UPDATE:

I did an engine overhaul since I last posted.  New pistons, sleeves, tune up kit, valves lapped, new gaskets, etc. 

I found out I have a 3 point hitch, but one side has a broken head (?).  A friend of mine came over and gave me a new one, so that's a plus!

I bought two new rims and tires from a salvage yard here west of Indianapolis.  Paid $200 for the pair.  They were rusted, but not bad.  I put some naval jelly on them, and painted them.  They look pretty good!

I'm not trying to figure out how to replace the crankshaft pulley.  I can't get enough clearance between the front and the pulley.  Just trying to figure that out.

I've also been told I need to set the valve gap.  Not sure how to do that either, but I'm learning! 

I'm really eager to get this D14 running!  I'll keep everyone here posted.  Thanks for all your help thus far!

probably have to pull the radiator to get the pulley off. 

You might want to get a IT Manual. All the specs and repair procedures will come in handy further down the road.

Hey guys! 

Thanks for the info.  The pulley came off no problem.  And yes there were two Allen screws.   But, now there's not enough room to get the new one back on.  I've been told that the front end has to come off.  Mind you it's stripped...no radiator, unhooked the steering linkage, all bolts out except front axle.  Still can't get this thing in.  I need about another 3/16" to get the new pulley in.

I bought an Allis Chalmers manual at Tractor Supply in town, which has a lot of great info...except how to replace the pulley haha!

Since last posted, I rebuilt the carb and replaced all the grease fittings and greased them.  This week, when I have some time, I'm planning on putting the oil pan and gasket on, replacing the front wheel bearing, and maybe swapping out the two rear wheels and tires...if I can get some help over at the homestead.  I don't feel comfortable doing it, and all my friends that know what they are doing, are in the fields planting every chance they get. 

Lol, your pretty smart for a squirt. Good luck fixing up your D14, great little tractor with a big heart. Amazing what it's capable of doing. Dad had one for years and wished he would have never sold it. Snap coupler 3 point but no power steering.

Are there any light bulbs in the tractor still? If so, you might could pull out one of the bulbs and look for a part number and see if it's a 6V or 12V bulb. That's what I'd try first, anyway. As far as an alternator, it's up to you. Personally, I don't think they look right without a generator. My WD45 has a generator that has been rebuilt to 12V, and it looks original and works great.

Edited by JarrodACFan - 04 Jun 2017 at 9:10pm

I'll take a look in the morning when I get home from the firehouse.  Thanks!!

My gorgeous, smokin' hot wife (:-D) came out and helped me get the front end back on Sunday night.  Took two jacks, some 4x4s, a dead blow mallet, a large rock and a long metal bar, but by golly we got it back in!!!

I was really proud (and happy) to see my wife take interest in this.  She sat in her chair and watched me work for a while afterwards.  We've been together 11 years...she's still my best friend. 

Tomorrow's game plan is to check the tags on the generator and starter to see if they are 6 or 12, put the water pump back on, put the oil pan back on, and MAYBE get the radiator in and fill it with fluids. 

My manual doesn't have specifications on oil weights to use or how much....ideas?  Also, ballpark idea on how much coolant?  I'm sure these are dumb questions with simple answers, but I honestly don't know, and don't know where to begin to look.

I really appreciate everyone being so helpful.  I'm looking forward to taking a video of starting it up for the first time and posting it to YouTube!

you've gots sum good helpers!

The original "D" series ignition switches use the generic garden tractor switch and key, any farm store will have them.