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HVFDFIREFIGHTER 
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Joined: 11 Jun 2013
Location: Heuvelton, NY
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 Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 2:47pm |
Also found this broken wire running from top of engine to a gauge (cant read the gauge) What is this device with wire on top of the engine called? Also noticed the ammeter is stuck of 9 amps even with no battery.
Edited by HVFDFIREFIGHTER - 21 Jul 2016 at 2:49pm
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HVFDFIREFIGHTER
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Location: Heuvelton, NY
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Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 3:39pm |
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Could other parts seize or is it most likely the engine? I'm thinking I should pull the head and soak with PB Blaster for a few days or maybe just dump it directly in the spark plug holes. What do you guys recommend?
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HVFDFIREFIGHTER
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Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 5:59pm |
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I took plugs out, put in fourth gear and could push a little. I heard some grinding noises near the starter. I took out the cone shaped bolt holding the starter in, slid starter out, pushed tractor in 4th gear and was able to push the tractor with no noise AND I noticed the PTO turning as well. I connected battery with starter half way out, turned key and just hear a click. I will be replacing wires tomorrow. I thinking 12 gauge stranded wire for everything should be fine except for the battery cables.
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HVFDFIREFIGHTER
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Location: Heuvelton, NY
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Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 6:01pm |
What is this orange bar under the starter. It is only connected on one side. It was a knuckle buster when removing starter.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 7:30pm |
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That the lever that engages the side PTO Belt pulley if you had one. The little hole would be connected to a lever/knob in the lower right of the dash. NONE of my foursome have the pulley....
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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cottonpatch
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Joined: 17 Nov 2010
Location: VIRGINIA
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Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 7:32pm |
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Starter probably needs rebuilding, may need a new solenoid as well.
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'52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040
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Dan73
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Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 7:40pm |
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I got one of those pullie here don't know if I will ever install it again or not but it seemed like one of those things to save at the time...
I would just use diesel fuel and some ATF in the cylinders pour it does the plug holes and let it sit for a few days maybe a week it will help clean up the cylinders even if it isn't stuck. Pb blasters is expensive and diesel fuel works about as well.
I would get a quote from Steve in NJ for the wiring harnis. You could do it all point to point but I think getting a kit from steve and do an electronic ignition while you are at it would be money well spent in the long run. You want to be very careful about cranking the motor with the starter or rolling it with the tires you can easily bend push rods if the valves are stuck pulling on the fan is about all I would do. There has also been discussion on here about setting up a lever holding a cement block to keep pressure on the motor while the cleaner works on the rust I don't remember the details of that setup. Some searching for freeing up stuck motors in here would probably find it.
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HVFDFIREFIGHTER
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Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 8:05pm |
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if that lever controls the side pulley, what are the chances the pulley would be the same size as the one on a WD? I have one for my WD but can't use it because the arms for the bucket get in the way. All I need is the cork gaskets
Edited by HVFDFIREFIGHTER - 21 Jul 2016 at 8:12pm
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DiyDave
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Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 8:34pm |
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Pulley won't interchange, except with a D-15. WD uses a different pulley. The braided wire covered thingy on top of the back of the head is the bulb for the temp gauge. the bulb, wire, and gauge are 1 unit, can be replaced with a universal type, or a repro unit...
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DSeries4
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Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 9:37pm |
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Do yourself a favor and get an owner's manual. It will tell you EVERYTHING you need to know about the tractor.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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HVFDFIREFIGHTER
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Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 1:05pm |
Starter gear in tractor, little wear, don't think bad enough to replace. What do all of you think? I know, DO IT RIGHT AND REPLACE IT! I don't have any way to split the tractor myself. I cant even begin to imagine how much that would cost for someone else to do it.
Starter gear in starter, worn pretty bad, needs to be replaced.
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Stan IL&TN
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Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 2:15pm |
Most likely all you'll need is a new gear on the starter itself but until you can free the engine I would not do much to this tractor. You may get into a money pit before you know the condition of the most expensive part, being the engine. Now if you are going to fix the tractor no matter what then by all means full throttle ahead. 
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 4:33pm |
 Dan73 wrote:
The generator and negative ground has me confused. These where positive ground new. It could have been switched to negative ground but typically that is part of a alternator upgrade. Makes me wonder if someone just didn't know and put a battery in backwards. |
Switching from Pos to Neg ground is very simple to do with a generator. The generator doesn't care which way it is as long as you polarize it after connecting the battery cables the way you want them.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 4:42pm |
HVFDFIREFIGHTER wrote:
Also found this broken wire running from top of engine to a gauge (cant read the gauge)What is this device with wire on top of the engine called? Also noticed the ammeter is stuck of 9 amps even with no battery.
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Temperature gauge.
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HVFDFIREFIGHTER
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Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 5:53pm |
Stan IL&TN wrote:
Most likely all you'll need is a new gear on the starter itself but until you can free the engine I would not do much to this tractor. You may get into a money pit before you know the condition of the most expensive part, being the engine. Now if you are going to fix the tractor no matter what then by all means full throttle ahead. |
I do believe (hope) the engine is not currently seized  . With starter out, PTO in gear, and tractor in 4th gear, I can push it forward and backward (with a good bit of effort). The PTO does turn when pushing tractor. I think I will still take the valve cover off and make sure all cylinders and valves are moving. Judging from the plugs, I am sure its pretty cruddy in there. Today, I replaced all wires, connectors, and solder them. The only wiring left to do is the back light (wasn't sure how to run the wire) and the horn (Not sure where to connect those wires).
Thanks for all the help so far. Hopefully the local shop will be open tomorrow and I can take the starter in.
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Dan73
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Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 5:59pm |
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Check the front pullie on the genorator before you take the starter in if the front pullie bearings are shot the genorator will need to be rebuilt or replace with an alt. I think an alternator is cheaper I rebuilt one genorator and converted one alt to positive ground for my d15 neither was cheap but I wanted to keep positive ground because I have lived with it on my d17 all my life.
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HVFDFIREFIGHTER
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Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 6:04pm |
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Pulley on generator. seems good, it turns and does not have any wobble. Not sure if it works as the tractor is not running. The shop I am taking the starter to tomorrow rebuilt my generator on my WD a few years ago.
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HVFDFIREFIGHTER
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Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 11:44am |
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What is the best shop manual to get for the D14? IT? I saw one with about 12 different models in it. Are there any free PDFs?
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Dan73
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Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 11:58am |
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Get the allis chalmers service manual you can order it from agco publications online. You can also find the parts manual at agco parts.com the it manual is not worth having the allis chalmers service manuals are much better.
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HVFDFIREFIGHTER
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Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 6:36pm |
Well, I had a chance to get out to the garage. Put tractor in gear, pushed a little and low and behold the fan turns!!. Found the serial number, it is 22376 The number on the engine block is 149-23123R Also found this on right side of engine block upside down J13J.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 6:28pm |
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Makes it an early 1960 model year tractor. Engine s/n of 23123 and tractor s/n of 22376 means there were 747 engines built for G-149 power units.
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HVFDFIREFIGHTER
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Posted: 26 Jul 2016 at 12:05pm |
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Just got a call from the shop, my starter is done. He mentioned it is 12 volt and has nine teeth on the gear. What ring gear should I go with? The parts book says 93 teeth for 6 volt and 116 teeth for 12 volt. I think jaybmiller mentioned the gear in the starter should have ten teeth. Mine has 9. I'm not sure of the number of teeth the current ring gear has as I have not taken tractor apart yet. Guess it really dosen't matter, I need to make sure ring gear matches to the starter. Correct?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 26 Jul 2016 at 12:45pm |
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Have you pull-started it yet to see if it even runs?? You may screw around and replace the ring gear and then find out the crankshaft needs to be removed from the engine and get to split it twice.
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