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new guy with some D17 series 4 questions

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Rusty Allis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 16 Jul 2020 at 9:20pm
Hello group! Truth be told, I have ghosted the forums here for a while and decided it was time to make an account so, here I am. Anyway, I won't bore you with the details how I got to the point of becoming the steward of this (ahem) fine D17 but I have a few questions if you'd entertain helping me.

I work on high end European junk as my day job, so a rusty old tractor should be a cake walk right? I believe the machine is a 67, but I can't seem to find info on the SN, which I believe to be D17-88038 and from what I found, puts it at the end of the run?

The machine runs well, and I'm picking thru some (cough) deferred maintenance. I foolishly picked up an I&T manual which evidently is a nice way of saying I purchased 200 sheets of toilet paper. I bought it specifically for 1 purpose (at least for now) and that would be manifold R+R.

I despise exhaust leaks. the clack clack clack of escaping exhaust is nails on a chalk board to me. After looking at the Allis/AGCO parts book (on line) I can't make heads or tails of what to expect when I pull the manifold.

first, I found what I believe to be the correct gaskets at napa,

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FPBMS86053?partTypeName=Intake+Manifold+to+Exhaust+Manifold+Gasket&keywordInput=gaskets

but what I can't wrap my head around is this....are there "fire rings" (like little pieces of pipe if you will sticking out of the head or manifold) and what are the torque specs? the I&Toilet paper book makes zero mention of it, the only spit I found was when removing the head, it states "remove the manifold" ok...that's helpful....

from what I gather, some studs go into the water jackets but I haven't found any clear info on the gaskets themselves. I want to have everything on hand before I start the job. If the gaskets I linked are correct, I will get them on order.

just looking for any pitfalls before I begin

also, is there a better book out there? the I&T is kind of a sad comedy it seems.

for what it's worth here are some p/n's that may help someone out. you guys are probably going to laugh, but I dug all this up for this machine

Wix filter numbers: oil 51515 air 42505 hydraulic 51049

Belts (gates) fan/generator 229211 or 9463HD power steering 237386 or 9425HD

Hoses (gates) upper 20088 or 25474 lower 21794 or 25476 bypass (3/4 ID) 28442
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2020 at 9:33pm
oops, guess I can't edit

this is the part that's tripping me up. #4 shows 2 pieces, which I assume is the gasket and a steel shell?

looking at manifolds, there is no recess to hold them in place, hence my confusion. I can't imagine they simply "float" between the head and manifold.

also, if it is steel on 1 side, fiber on the other I am assuming the steel side goes out to allow for manifold movement? that is how all the German cars I work on do things...theory is the manifold is always moving so the steel side out gives it some "walking room" if you will


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2020 at 9:40pm
Welcome to Allis. This is the best forum for AC on the web. My series 4 diesel was serial # 88427 made in 1967, sold new in 1968. I owned it for 30 years, recently sold it back to the 1st owners son. When I replaced the manifold on dad's WD 45 I put the steel gasket plate against the head. If that's not right, Dr Allis will soon set me straight.

Edited by HD6GTOM - 16 Jul 2020 at 9:43pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2020 at 9:48pm
If you go to the classified section there is a guy with a series 4 Manuel for sale. He is under manuel's for sale.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2020 at 10:02pm
thanks! I will look for him

I should mention mine is a gas powered D17
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2020 at 2:33am
We can see a 4 cylinder manifold. All diesels are 6 cylinders.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2020 at 7:20am
Metal goes against the cylinder head.  Lightly tape the parts to the manifold to hold things in place. Everything must be clean and hopefully flat. Re-tighten manifold nuts every morning (after previous days use) when the engine is COLD for several days to get everything squeezed together. When it gets to where the nuts seem to be tight some morning, quit with the re-torque ritual.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2020 at 1:43pm
thanks for that. seems that makes sense as looking closer, the cups if you will should slide on the manifold.

what is a good initial torque? I could measure the stud and calculate from there. I have a straight edge for checking heads/deck surfaces. are these prone to warp?

I need to figure out something with the muffler. the supply houses are clear as mud. I need a oval one but seems that they fit a few things. i'll measure the stub and should be able to figure it from there
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2020 at 2:20pm
Manifold can warp and if the head was run too long chirping through a leaky gasket the head will lose material at the leak. Can be repaired though. I usually just squeeze the metal shell to each manifold port to hold them in place but some will use grease or high temp silicone to stick them. I don't know if that is a good idea. Manifold must be flat. I don't remember torque spec but I think 2o foot pounds. I crack a new C manifold once just farmer tightening it so lesson learned many many moons ago.

Your I & T manual won't even give you that torque figure? Well, save it for the next TP shortage then. Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2020 at 2:58pm
Make sure the seal surfaces of the head are straight and smooth, Bigger thing to check for is the surface of the ports on the manifold. If any are 'ate away' eroded or rusted out, You need to either buy a new manifold or build up the old one and machine back to original dimension.  One fellow used manifold sealer on his. I never have.

   Mufflers,  If you have been lurking her for any length of time, you should know by now that there is a fellow on this forum that had a NEW RUN of NELSON mufflers made for your D17 to the original dimensions. They are more costly than Stanely mufflers but are worth many times over for the quality and sound of these mufflers.
[TUBE]gWmx1TinJU0[/TUBE]
 The big difference is under full load for sound that he did not show.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2020 at 4:31pm
Originally posted by Lonn Lonn wrote:


Your I & T manual won't even give you that torque figure? Well, save it for the next TP shortage then. Wink


not that I have found. unless i'm stupid (could be!) it makes zero mention of the manifold at all.

Thank you for the video, something to consider for sure, much appreciated!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2020 at 6:57pm
35 to 40 ft lbs on the manifold stud nuts. I'd lean towards 35 to begin with a continue to retorque cold until they stop moving.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2020 at 10:03pm
thank you! I have a bunch of stuff on order, so when it all turns up I will dig in and post some photos.

you've been more than helpful...all of you. I really appreciate it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2020 at 7:42pm
Originally posted by Lonn Lonn wrote:

a leaky gasket the head will lose material at the leak. Can be repaired though.


welp….

surprise!!!! I wasn't the first one in there...

my manifold is SHOT...as in, it's been brazed before and is paper thin. I have to get this back together so I can move it, so I will have to unfortunately reassemble it with the crap manifold.

is this a ok manifold?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Exhaust-for-Manifold-Allis-Chalmers-D17-WC-WD-WD45-70226350/192464642753?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2ccfc962c1:g:qJAAAOSwDM9eZ5eH:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!06359!US!-1&enc=AQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkfKe2vUidqHRg3XM2X2xOVPoG46xqhduckNYn54uql2vY8BD5QAzFpOs8upLUNyhqyTZz%2FnVwOGcBRk%2Bfaq8HQ%2FyAuiC6tW49a4f96Z677c%2BgkGjDglljkapKB0VRbT3UDq95984rKMvkPpRPUv1%2BG%2FL68kqh9Z0Hpvwc5fdszKGtnk9nEtTak6wxf7vb0cEJbLt34ymghfcT86kLqmZoZDTeGTgD42E7eHQrCdnE59nGZDHb18HBi3%2B0A%2Bi1XiTGyiqQefTlYc87XIuBMbIVRlN3x00pCk4XWbIzC33ZZ%2BZ%2FbXv4qjLU47RDXD1cW0FIXySC1jISBOEZ5Oy1vArzrkZV1bpxGR7qs0TGJsvSoB6gHb0%2BAuY3GzEEjrnwwfGCectrMee%2B1qYqgYwop4v3ERbpZHeHk2017J3E39y8GDUzdebH3q66mNWYMBwUTPllk96l1ddGePBDOEYTXN8pMHwXZIg%2B80vI9h%2FDp6jc60jrVWIsSG1L58M5lHXz5T%2B1ik%2BKAAVshW%2FHWUyVst%2FnumT8H89Trherkfyw7NyXom%2B3nMiwb7obOcNt%2BmTXcSlDD49tFjuJCMsQt%2FYTfZqEKHAFxIDUxUkMK3goqfSuEwM8nfV4yaDp4HmLUUkkff42d%2FaFbOvV5HIRV46aMFM9fLjWUIskA%2B3TiQOu0gelK0DUb0%2Bux4KtrIIxddI453%2BviYyi4jLFl2b%2BqEIhQ3gHi5PbOqgMSfN4Pq6rsnUMAHVX2oOo%2F5zFrlHqi0nXui7GcF2WmNZszU%2BrPDMbxbWkOg%3D%3D&checksum=192464642753c12be1e0d0cc4e849fce681ee8ed13cc

I know, probably made of the worlds *finest* Chineseium but if there is a better manifold out there, show me the way please

i quoted Lonn who made mention of the gasket surface being erroded. unfortunately that is the case with the 2 end ports. it's a bit seedy as you can see by the picture



it may not look bad, but there are some low's that I verified by using some paint and a sanding block.

I have 2 thoughts:

1) someone here will say "use xxxx epoxy and you'll be fine"

2) order another set of gaskets with the new manifold and harvest the gasket material out of the tin shells for all ports, glue them to the outside of the gaskets (so basically it will go gasket/tin/gasket) and hope that takes up the space.

thoughts? ideas? set it on fire?

Edited by Rusty Allis - 21 Jul 2020 at 7:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2020 at 7:45pm
oops, sorry the link isn't working for the manifold, not sure what I did wrong
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave(inMA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2020 at 8:40pm
WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2020 at 8:50pm
thanks! that's the one. how'd you do that? I just cut and pasted the link.

again, not sure if that is going to be a quality unit. but, it seems that everyone offers that manifold at wildly varying prices
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac45dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2020 at 11:47pm
Rusty, you might want to check with Tony's Tractors for a new manifold.He is a vender on here.He and Don Bradley had these manifolds available in the usa made Vinson brand to fit the d17s as of last Sept.They are a quality made product.I would avoid the china made crap if at all possible as they are pure JUNK.Here is a link to Tony's Tractors.......http://www.tonystractors.com/   

Edited by ac45dave - 21 Jul 2020 at 11:49pm
54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2020 at 12:19am
thank you

I just did a quick search. seems that they are NLA

http://oktractor.com/zen/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_15_207

I will reach out and see. looks like china may be in my future if this is true
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2020 at 6:12am
Says on their site to call them.... that's what I'd do


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave(inMA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2020 at 6:47am
2x what Lonn says about Tony's Tractors - as well as the other vendors on this site. Also could check the classified section to see if anyone is offering a good used one for sale.
WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vaAllis90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2020 at 6:54am
I would use copper high temp silicone on both sides of your gaskets, may not be the original thing to do, but I have had no leaks using it, especially given the condition of your head surface. Also, check our DJS tractor for parts. I buy my manifolds from them and they seem like they are well made.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2020 at 8:12am
I would certainly try the Hi-temp copper RTV on both sides of the paper gaskets and between the metal and the CLEAN cylinder head. You're not out much. Unless you are plowing and discing, I'll bet it will last quite a while. Proper torqueing and multiple cold retorques will be key to have any success with this repair. Always start with the front and rear nut to square the manifold with the head and then alternate between them all to not get it out of square.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2020 at 9:19am
wow, thanks for the replies!

would this manifold work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Allis-Chalmers-WD-45-WD45-D17-WC-tractor-AC-WD-engine-motor-exhaust-manifold/323785363359?hash=item4b631c8f9f:g:SB0AAOSw3LVb-V5a

the only difference I can see is this has the "slip in" exhaust pipe, not the thread in.

i'd much rather use OEM stuff if I could....

if this will work, what size is the slip in pipe, and would that jive with the oval muffler I just ordered?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac45dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2020 at 9:35am
Rusty, you'll need to call Tony.The Vinson wasn't showing on his web site last year when I got mine.They were selling them on the side.And no that wd manifold won't fit.stud holes are 3/8 yours are 7/16 and your manifold is threaded for a pipe nipple for the slide on style muffler.

Edited by ac45dave - 23 Jul 2020 at 3:06pm
54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2020 at 9:41am
You want to use a manifold that is 10 years older than the one you removed???  You can do what you want, but I think that is a dumb idea.  They do not get better with time!

Would you put older used parts on one of your customer's European cars?

There are vendors here who sell good quality brand new ones.  I have bought some and have not had any problems with them.

'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2020 at 10:20am
Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

You want to use a manifold that is 10 years older than the one you removed???  You can do what you want, but I think that is a dumb idea.  They do not get better with time!

Would you put older used parts on one of your customer's European cars?


in an effort not to sound snarky, i'll do my best and bite my tongue...

would I use a older part on a car that was NLA but OEM quality? you bet.... I don't step over dollars to pick up dimes...my sanity is worth more than modifying a crap china part to do what the OEM would do out of the gate...for another 50 years.

second...i'm not a farmer. it's a long story but i'm doing my best to resurrect some of the original equipment here and save the been in the family 185 year family farm. I married into this mess 20 years ago and the family has aged out. I have always been the wrench and had parts supplied to me so this is a whole new world in terms of interchangeability to me....

yes, I will have some really stupid questions...and I apologize. I specialize in CAN, MOST and LIN-BUS diagnostics...i'm more comfortable with variable valve timing than i am with some of the tractor stuff...in a perfect world I would walk into a Allis dealer with the s/n and say "here is my list" but we aren't in a perfect world.

so to answer your question would I swap out a TDI for a 1.6na in a customers car? no....but if it was a way forward it would be an option to explore. sorry if I have come across as an azz...I have the weight of the world on my shoulders with this place and all of the folks who have run it are either dead, dying, or have dementia so trying to extract decades of knowledge from them is impossible. my wife is beside herself watching her father slowly slip away and the family empire crumble

I need this machine up and running enough to be able to repair some buildings and do some mowing. again, I apologize, I am just stressed to the max and probably took your comment wrong
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2020 at 12:05pm
Not able to give any advice to your project, but support to your cause of using what you have got. Can get frustrating working on anything with current virus adding extra confusion. Been down the road your on with the aging family. I am not hearing any real snarky in your reply. Good luck on getting it the first time.

PS    To edit your post click post options at the top of your reply, then click on the edit that pops up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2020 at 9:02pm
thanks Ray

I actually found the delivery record from this machine today from when my wife's grandfather bought it. it's in what's left of the operators manual. anyway, I also found a treasure trove of old NOS Allis parts...nothing revolutionary, mainly "consumables" and maintenance stuff. I had to laugh when I found this...figures haha

that has to be jen-you-wine asssbestos right there   



i got it all back together and even though the manifold was booger welded before i got to it, I took care of some pin holes and a few 1/2" sections that were rotted out. man, that manifold is paper thin but should hold for a bit until i find a good used one or reach out to one of the vendors mentioned ( i will try and do that tomorrow)

I got the oil changed, all new filters and some belts. I had a hell of a time slipping the belts under the crank pulley. I got so pissed I pulled the generator out to give me more room. even then what should have been a 5 min deal turned into an hour long festival of inventing new words.

even with the crap muffler on it, I have never heard this machine run so quiet. it's always been what my father in law called a "feed and bleed" machine. I have a few couplers for the loader that are leaking a bit and a PTO shaft seal that like's to let you know it's there. not sure how far I will take it in terms of the leaks.

anyway, thank you guys for letting me vent. my wife and I would like to move the place in a better direction. we have some folks leasing to do hay/corn but I want to get the buildings in better shape as we have a guy who want's to pasture some cows.

the problem with the farm here is it truly was a victim of its own success, meaning that they were so shrewd, so smart, so profitable everyone in the family (I mean everyone up to my wife's generation) went to college...and "got smart" as my father in law use to put it. He had a fleet of daughters, and I was the son he never had so i'm pretty much the last chance here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2020 at 11:33pm
A little late to the party but oh well. Welcome to the forum!

I would also suggest contacting Tony about a VINSON manifold. They would be the best option out there thats closest to OEM. You DO need the manifold that is tapped for the threaded pipe because the oval muffler clamps on. DO NOT use a manifold that the stub pipe slides in and the muffler then clamps to.

The manifold gaskets should get you by like Dr Allis says if you layer highest temp RTV between the clean head, steel cup, gasket material and clean manifold. The manifold studs on your D17 are 7/16", so if you get a used manifold, make sure the one you get has the holes for 7/16" studs. (the WD45 and earlier used 3/8" studs)

If you would rather go with the OEM muffler, the OEM ones are made by NELSON. A-C part #246129 and it has an offset outlet. (Thanks JC for putting them out there) If you want the OEM one, I have them for sale.

Be sure to post any more questions you have! Any of us on here will be glad to help you keep the D17 going!
www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
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