Need HD5 Sprocket Shaft, Housing and Track Chain

I’m needing right side sprocket shaft, large retaining nut, outboard bearing housing with bearings and 5 track chain links for my HD5.

How difficult is it to change the sprocket shaft?

There are two different axles that were used, one is a 6 spline and I think the newer one is 20 splines.  You will need to pull the sprocket to see which o f the axles you have for sure.  I was able to get bearing housings, bearings, seals, and axles when I did mine from Thill Track and Tractor in Eu Claire, WI.  That was a few years ago though.  

I'm pretty sure its a 6 spline. It's an early 50's model. Not looking forward to pulling that sprocket! So after the sprocket is off, how is the shaft removed?

After you drop the truck frame down to get clearance to remove the sprocket - then the rest will come easy - inner and outer timken bearings on axle shaft - 
 Bull gear rides on this shaft also . Next is the outer seal is completely gone in your picture so something else you need along with probbly inner seal also .

Edited by Coke-in-MN - 22 May 2018 at 5:00pm

the bearings are lubed from the final drive oil. that oil is also supposed to come out and lube the outer bearing that went bad. a lot of times these ports get clogged or wont let oil out for whatever reason. when I did mine I drilled and tapped a 1/8" npt port on the outer cap and put 00 grease in to be sure the outer bearings are lubed. if you do it be careful not to overlube as the seals are bellows and rubber and can be easily blown out from grease gun pressure. once you get the sprocket off, the inner seal is bolted to the housing and comes off. now take the lower final drive access plate off and there are 2 keepers bolted to the bull gear. remove them, put a jack under the bull gear and the axle will come out. make sure the outer bearing housing you get is the same as the one you have as there are at least 2 designs. best way to tell is the size of the outer cap. I got all my seals from general gear. no shafts but have all the seals available. I had trouble with my sprocket and shaft being worn and actually going on too far and allowing the outer seal to leak. I had to make a washer to go between the nut and sprocket to bring the seal out far enough to contact. not rocket science but just be mindful when reassembling. sprocket nut is torqued to 1500 ft lbs. what is wrong with the track links?

Got all my parts, starting re-assembly. Couple of questions...

1. How are do you torque the large sprocket nut to 1500 lbs? I just removed it easily with a pipe wrench. Will have to make a 3 3/4” wrench to tighten it down!

2. I Did not notice the bull gear keeper plate detail when I removed it. It doesn’t fit in the slot on the new axle and the gear slides freely back and forth. Should I make a new, larger keeper plate that sits in the slot?

The keeper is missing for the bull gear. What you have there is the bolt lock, you bend the tabs over once tight. The keeper is just like the lock but thicker. Check your parts. If you need one I can look if I have one. It is probably hardened so making one is doubtful. As far as tightening the bull gear, I used a pipe wrench and an 8' pipe slipped over the end and tighten. I figured 8' pipe, 200 pounds on the end makes it about 1600 ft lbs. I also took a sledge and tapped on the sprocket to help set it on the taper and then rechecked the torque. I also bypassed the lock on the hub by taking a piece of key and welded it to the sprocket to keep it from loosening. Good luck!