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Need a 3 point hitch for my D14

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HVFDFIREFIGHTER View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 at 4:09pm
Hello, I am selling my D14. A guy said he would buy it if it had a three point hitch.  Here are some pictures of what I have now.  What do I need to have an operational three point hitch?  Is there anything here I can use or should I just take that whole assembly off except for the drawbar?    What do I need exactly.









Edited by HVFDFIREFIGHTER - 02 Jul 2018 at 4:11pm
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HVFDFIREFIGHTER View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HVFDFIREFIGHTER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2018 at 4:17pm
Those round ears are both 1 1/4" 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2018 at 4:44pm
You need the 2 lower arms that connect to the round bar on the tractor as well as a 'top link ' mounting plate. The OEM version is bolted between  the seat base and the rockshaft. While the OEM version will have 3 holes to put the 'top link', most aftermarket/farmer made units only have 1 hole in them.
You should see to finding the 'lock orientation' on your smart device as your pictures are all rotated 90* left.
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2018 at 4:51pm
What you now have is the mounting bracket for an 80S sickle mower. The kind to get that is easiest to put on and off is what AC sold as a “3pt adapter” they resemble a whishbone and maintain the use of the tractors “traction booster” Athought they do have an inherent drawback, unless you have the factory type sway control. If you buy one of the aftermarket “conversions” that bolt to the 4 bolts under the rear housings, hope that your buyer is not a good friend or is very good about looking for loose bolts. When those bolts get loose the threads in those hole are going to strip out in a hurry, then you will be needing to replace the castings.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2018 at 1:03am
Originally posted by PaulB PaulB wrote:

If you buy one of the aftermarket “conversions” that bolt to the 4 bolts under the rear housings, hope that your buyer is not a good friend or is very good about looking for loose bolts. When those bolts get loose the threads in those hole are going to strip out in a hurry, then you will be needing to replace the castings.




I cleaned the threads out with a tap, and lots of brake cleaner.  I cut thread rod studs and put those in the holes with adequate loctite.  I mounted the unit and double nutted each stud.  Never had any come loose!
D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2018 at 6:28am
hmm mower mount, guess that explains the 'extra' flat bar that was confusing me while tilting me head to the left LOL
I have 3, SC to 3pt adapters BOLTED onto my 3pt implements including toplinks. That way they're as easy as the SC plow to put on/take off. There are 2 types though, one for PTO driven implements,like a tiller and one that won't.

3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HVFDFIREFIGHTER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 2:01pm
Question, in ne pictures above there is a round tube with a round earnstucking out on each side . These ears are 1.25” in diameter. Could I grind those two ears down to 7/8”, drill. a hole in them for a pin and mount the lift arms to that? I don’t have anything else that would fit on that device anyway. So I need to grind a little more than 1/4” off and make them round.

Then all I would need is two lift arms, two adjustable links between hydraulic arms and lift arms, top bracket, adjustable top link, and I should have an operational 3 point hitch?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HVFDFIREFIGHTER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 2:01pm
Trick will be grinding those down in a round shape.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HVFDFIREFIGHTER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 2:06pm
Each ear is 2.5” long, there should be enough room for a lift arm ball and a 1/4” hole for a pin. I hope.

Edited by HVFDFIREFIGHTER - 04 Jul 2018 at 2:07pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 4:55pm
It appears they are mounted in the tube they protude from.  If you can get them out or cut them off and weld Cat 1 pins in place, might be an easier option
D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HVFDFIREFIGHTER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2018 at 8:38pm
That’s a good idea.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2018 at 8:46pm
One problem using them  may be  the distance the lower arms are. Someone here should have the dimensions, but the arms have to mount at a specific point, otherwise the 3pt implements won't raise up right. Might be easier finding a 3pt adapter ?
more 'food for thought'...sorry
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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