My 1st Allis Model C (Updated 12-4-16)

Correct. Your C is 1942    Beginning # to be a 1942 is C12389
Thanks to Tuck I corrected my mistake made here early this morning before coffee

What is your Engine Serial #? Early Cs had the engine # stamped into the small flat spot on the back of the block above the clutch housing before the engine serial on Cs were stamped in the top edge of the left hand rear flange of the engine block. # begins with CE.
    The engine casting # is also a valuable tool in dating when the block was cast. By using the last number of the casting number (the raised numbers on the right side of the block above the center welch plug). As a rule you can date what year the block was cast by using that last number. The first blocks like these were first cast in 1937 for the beginning of the 38B production year. Casting # ended in a 9. Blocks cast in 38 ended in 10. Cast in 39 a 11. 40 a 12, 41 a 13 and so on at least until shortly after WW2.   I suspect your block if cast in 41 should end in a 13.

   Lots of times you can find a rather small raised rectangular bump somewhere on the block with the actual date the block was cast. The bump was made by a small piece of whatever with the date on it screwed to the mold. You can actually see the imprint of the slotted screws at each end on the raised bump.

   Now lets look at the head for a casting date. Clean the gunk away from the bottom of the oil galley. Look for the actual day, month, year numbers the head was cast. From head to head the numbers are not always in the same place.     Don't ask me WHY or how I know all this Trivia.
    lol

One more bit of C trivia. C tractors prior to C#5756 had hand brakes.

111 Cs came off the production line in 1940.   84030 Cs were built.
The CA replaced them

Edited by Ken in Texas - 13 Sep 2016 at 7:57am

If the oil isn't milky, I would say that foamy film on the rocker cover is from condensation. Short run times can cause condensation  and if the engine is running hot that may add to it?
  If you don't know the history of the engine, it would be a good time to replace those 3 core plugs as a preventative measure anyway.
 Looking at the pictures of the hydraulics, you can see more evidence of repaint with splatters of paint on the hose.

I noticed grey primer up under the seat too. I don't remember ever seeing gray primer on any B or C. Cs had a serious fender rust problem because they were assembled with unprimed parts and painted PO#1 after assembly. The unprimed, unpainted area between the fender and the support would hold rain water a create a real rust sandwich.
For the age of this C the paint don't look old Allis orange enough or the right orange to be original

Ken, I don't know where you got your numbers from, but 18781 is the LAST C in 1942 according to this sites list.

Here is the little video I made of it. Maybe will be able to see more then just the pictures are showing.

You may be able to figure out how those rods worked the cultivator by reading over this thread.  The linkage under the foot brakes may be for lifting several attachments, including a  front blade. My tractor has the link. It is not needed to operate the 80 series cultivator. However, this C did at one point have the front blade, and the right and left  rear plows.

http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=78211&title=allis-chalmers-c-cultivator-setup

True a normal C is a cold running engine, relative to others.

As for overheating:

massive amounts of crud in block and radiator

thermostat upside down or stuck.

lower radiator metal elbow replaced with rubber hose that collapses under suction of operation. I can't see clearly in the left side picture, under the alternator.

retarded timing- initial setting wrong, and/or advance mechanism stuck.

When changing oil, I like to do it after tractor has set for weeks, that way coolant can settle out of the oil, crack open the oil drain plug and capture the first cup. Examine that for water.

Welcome to the forum! Its nice to see another guy on here from my neck of the woods! My dad grew up in Marinette and we live down by Gillett/Shawano now.
Those rods on the back of your lift arms are for the C cultivators. You already have the brakets for the mounted plow, but there was also a sickle mower and a planter that one could get for the C. The white oily goo on the valve cover is from condensation. I would say you do not have any coolant in you oil, otherwise the oil on top of the cylinder head would look milky. Your overheating problem might be a too lean of a carb setting in addition to some of the other problems mentioned above. If you have any other questions, feel free to give me a call at 920-598-1287 Congratulations on your new orange tractor!

Well made it back down there and it was a 333 massey not the 33 which is nice. Has a normal 3 point setup on it as well as live pto.

Also when I was down there he gave me the easy Rider seat for the Model C. Said he bought and put on the bench seat so the kids had some where to sit and go for rides. Probably leave that one on til the kids are a little older but everything is there to switch it back and forth now. Hope the flushing of the block and radiator will cure my overheating get problems. Did get quite a bit of junk out of it. Almost looked like newspaper in there coming get out when I was flushing get besides the seal all flakes.

Just to be sure the radiator cap for my C should be an unpressurized cap?

Wish I had the cultivator. I'm gonna have to try and find a picture with that style drawbar and linkage to get an idea of what to even be looking for. This is all very new to me yet. If you told me a year ago i'd have 3 vintage tractors I would have laughed at ya and told you your nuts. Crazy how fast things turn around. Seen that ford for a great deal and it came with a loader, a rotary cutter, and a rear blade my father and I decided it would work good for pulling firewood trailers and leveling the driveway. Now we have a fleet and the attachment are piling up too. You find all kinds of uses for them once you have them.

Looking along the right side underneath the seat is the one cyl. This indicates to me that it was used to plow with. For the cultivator it had two sets of those rods the guys have been talking about that run from the back to the front. It also had two cylinders, one to lift the front gang and one to lift the rear sweeps. (3) This was made so you could plow your rows all the way to the end. There was a two way valve that you could control when they lifted. There are fenders too that hang by a small chain inside each gang that you could adjust up or down to control how much dirt was put to the plants without covering them up. We always liked the spade shovels up front because they covered better, and then the crows foot on the three rear sweeps. Actually we left the middle one out until the last cultivation because if you plowed out the middle the first time through it was a son-of-a-gun to hold that little tricycle straight. Way back in a smaller, slower time, they couldn't be beat in keeping corn and beans clean. And they were unbelievable in how little gas they used. It's made tears come to my eyes to think I or anyone else will ever see those days again. I wish that I had a 20-30 acre plot of ground and all the equipment we had for a "C" just to play with. What a time we would have. Guess I'll have to be satisfied with the 45 and the stuff I do with it. Sorry for such a long commentary, but it  is  what it is. LOL

Most thermostat housings don't have that pipe cap sticking out the side. I'm guessing sometime between 1940 and 2016 someone added it to bleed air, or put a preheater on.
When you make it down this way next time, stop in and I can show you a set of cultivators for a C that are for sale. About the rad cap, the pressurized/unpres. are NOT interchangable. C's were made with both.

Well some good news! I soaked the radiator with a lye solution and then flushed the crappie out of it. Looks nice and clean in there now and could see water flowing almost every tube in there.

Then I mixed up a 1 to 3 muriatic acid and water and poured that through the head and out the drain on the bottom. Then flushed n flushed followed by filling with water then blowing air into each the block drain and let it "boil" with the air pressure followed by more flushing. Put it all back together and now the flow from the water pump is 4 time as fast as before. Ran it about 20 minutes and only would go to about 130 on the temp gauge. There still isn't a thermostat in there so I'm thinking it will come up to temp and stay there once I get one and the spring that goes in there. Happy that it is working now to say the least!

Well managed it's been a little while since I've posted but found some cool stuff today. Just posting this here to keep it all in one place for me.

Managed to find a guy pretty local who had some manuals I've been looking for, for the Massey 333 and also got a decal set for it. But while I was there I had mentioned owning a Model C too and right away asked if I needed anything for it. Low and behold he has several C sitting out back and has a belt pulley and battery box minus the lid for 20 each, as well as a complete single bottom plowith with rock shaft and all, complete spring tooth cultivator setup still mounted to the original tractor that's for sale, and a side mounted sickle mower that still mounted to another C that just need a Pittman arm if I recall correctly. What would you feel are fair prices for these attachments keeping in mind I'd have to remove them?

Haven't seen any really sell around me since I have started watching so don't really have a clue as to their value, so any input would be appreciated.

I'm pretty sure I will end up taking the cultivators and the single bottom plow setup but as far as thee tractors I don't have room or really need a complete parts machine laying around at this time. If your seriously interested I can talk to him about it and see if he would sell it if you would like.