My 1st Allis Model C (Updated 12-4-16)

Well I received a gift of a 1945 AC model C. It has the pto shafts on the rear as well as a hydraulic lift system that looks original on it and a shafts that a pulley would go on under the seat to drive other implements. Now this is the 1st allis chalmers I have owned and my 3rd ever tractor. Prior ones being a 60s model international 300 which is gone now, and now have a Ford 881 Powermaster and this little gem. So far I just l9ve this little thing.

Upon getting it I was told he thought the head gasket was bad since it overheats after light use and he just put on a new water pump and thermostat not that long ago and it didn't solve the problem. After getting it home lastnight I took a little ride for like 30 minutes and at the end the new temp gauge read in the high green area then rose slightly into the red after shutting it down. I could hear the coolant boiling a little too.

After it cooled down I check the radiator and the coolant looks kinda nasty so I plan on flushing and replacing that as well as a oil change and change the fluids in the differential and what not
I also pulled the valve cover off and there is so.easy white slime inside the cover from what looks like moisture so Amy be the head gasket is blown pushing coolant the into the oil a little bit?

Any help or advice would be appreciated as I want to get it in great running order then fix it up cosmetically and just use it around our property for dragging trees and pulling firewood back to camp. Maybe get a blade or something for snow removal at home if it won't break the bank.

Will get a few pics of it up here shortly.

Edited by Bensjamming - 04 Dec 2016 at 12:25am

I don't suppose you have tried cleaning the radiator fins out?  When it running hot is the air coming off the fan equally hot too? 

Edited by Tcmtech - 12 Sep 2016 at 5:24pm

What is the easiest way to be able to hook up a small rear blade onto this tractor for pulling light snow down a driveway? Anyone have some ideas or plans on how to make a simple 3 pt setup out of the hydraulic lift that's on these machines already? I'm a Welder by trade and have the equipment to fab up pretty much whatever I need.

Thanks in advance, Ben

Never has been restored. Was just told it has never spent a night outside in the last 45 years and that was the only stipulation to me getting it for free, is it has to be stored indoors.

Im also getting a restored massey harris 33 from as well as soon as I go pick it up.

Bill Long wrote: That is one CLEAN C.  Looks like it has been restored.  How lucky!  A gift.  For a snow plow you may want to look for a myers blade.  We put a lot of them on C's and they worked very well.  Are the tires loaded?  That will make pushing snow or pulling anything a lot better. The B-C, CA's were rather "cold" running tractors.  You are changing the fluids and that should help.  Be sure to flush the cooling system.  Only other thing - and I hope not -could be a plugged block. Let us know how it goes.  Neat Tractor. Good Luck! Bill Long

With the Meyers plow do you mount it the bar underneath for the implements? And how do you raise and lower it? I was thinking just a rear scraper blade myself but if that's going to work better and be easier I'll go that route.

With the Meyers plow do you mount it the bar underneath for the implements? And how do you raise and lower it? I was thinking just a rear scraper blade myself but if that's going to work better and be easier I'll go that route.

The Myers blade for the C pushed in front of the front wheels.  It got it's lift from a cable hooked to the lift arm with a series of pulleys that lifted the blade.  Be sure you get a blade not much wider that the rear tires, otherwise you would have too much blade for the tractor.
There was a B in one of the older posts with a Myers plow on it.  Different tractor but mounted almost the same.
Perhaps someone has pictures or diagrams.
You might want to try the Myers web site.  Perhaps they would have a parts book.  If you were really lucky they may have some brackets in New Old Stock.
Good Luck!
Bill Long

Bensjamming wrote:  1. After getting it home lastnight I took a little ride for like 30 minutes and at the end the new temp gauge read in the high green area then rose slightly into the red after shutting it down. I could hear the coolant boiling a little too. 2.After it cooled down I check the radiator and the coolant looks kinda nasty so I plan on flushing and replacing that as well as a oil change and change the fluids in the differential and what not 3.I also pulled the valve cover off and there is so.easy white slime inside the cover from what looks like moisture so Amy be the head gasket is blown pushing coolant the into the oil a little bit?

1. High green is OK, but these engines tend to run too cool not to the warm side. If the radiator shutters are all the way open it should probably stay closer to the low side of the green.  ANY engine will show higher temp after you shut it down, that's not a problem.
2. Flushing is probably a good idea.
3. With the valve cover off, look for core plugs in the top of the head. If they leak a little bit, it can cause the milk shake in the oil. They MAY look OK but they rust from the bottom side and will eventually leak, letting coolant drain down into the oil pan. NOT a thing to let happen because antifreeze in the oil will destroy your bottom end bearings in a short time.
 This is a cheap and easy thing to fix. Core plugs, or Frost plugs can be bought for a couple dollars and once the coolant is drained down below the head level, you can drive a screw driver thru the old ones and pop them out. Clean the casting with sandpaper and wipe a SMALL bit of sealant around the hole and tap a new plug in.
 The tractor may have never been "RESTORED" but it HAS been repainted. There never was a "C" decal on a C and the rear rims were never painted Orange. They were galvanized. That being said, I wish somebody would give me a couple tractors to store inside

What you have here is what is known as a "Short Arm C" referring to the short steering arms. They are very early Cs. The short arms were replaced by long arms at C#18163 that would be in late 1942. Beginning number to be a 43 is C#18782
If in fact,as you say,it is a 1945 C the tractor number should fall between C30695 and C36377
I'm surprised no one has pointed this out before me.
If your numbers match the numbers for a 1945 the transmission was probably changed. Probably a Restored Tractor.
Nice C regardless of year it is. The forward facing drawbar under the tractor is used with Tractor mounted B/C plows. The plow debth control lever is missing. I have that lever if you ever need it to mount a plow.
The two lift levers in the rear are also part of the C Left right two Plow setup.

Edited by Ken in Texas - 12 Sep 2016 at 9:09pm

There is a lever on both the left and right sides similar to yours. The right side raises and lowers the bracket in front of the rear wheels the plow woulster attach too and the other one on the left moves an arm with 2 steel rods or bars that are mounted the end of it.

If I recall the serial number was right in the middle of the 1945 serial range. Is there anywhere else I can look for a matching number?

Also any idea what the steel rods are on the ends of the rock shafts I believe it's called. The hydraulic lift bar?

Man alive. This C has real C fenders what aren't rusted half away up.
Those goofy aftermarket headlamps got to go.
That funky excuse for a drawbar extension needs to go too. A real AC B/C swinging drawbar would look perfect back there.
Doing it right makes it worth doing on a FREE tractor

Edited by Ken in Texas - 13 Sep 2016 at 7:37am

Ask your guy that gave you the C if it once had plows or a set of cultivators. Why they leave important attaching parts for implements stay on the tractor when nobody without the rest of the implements can use them for squat.

Is that a 450r behind it

Mikez wrote: Is that a 450r behind it

Close, its the oldest kids 400ex.

Ken

Here are some pictures of everything along with a shirt video.

1st pic is the left side and the 2nd and 3rd are of the right that raises and lowers the bracket in front of the rear wheels.






PTO and Hydraulic pump and cylinder




White slime in valve cover and top of head with rockers




Carb / Alternator


Sanded the serial number to see it better


1 other view of the lower bracket where plow would attach


Video will come soon. Still uploading...