| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
JayIN 
Orange Level
Joined: 18 Dec 2009
Location: SE/IN
Points: 1982
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(1)
 Quote  Reply
 Posted: 13 Aug 2016 at 7:35pm |
|
WOW! I am continually impressed! What great work ethic! I will last another 80 years EASILY!!!!!
|
|
sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8167
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 Aug 2016 at 8:48pm |
|
Very nice to see your project being assembled!
Regards,
Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
Brendan (AB)
Bronze Level
Joined: 19 Sep 2013
Location: Alberta
Points: 41
|
Post Options
Thanks(1)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 12:09am |
Here is a picture of my '27 when I got it a few of years ago. The engine was stuck, and I have since got it loose, but one of the sleeves is cracked. I think I should have something usable in one of my parts tractors. Beyond that, I haven't done much to it yet. Thanks for the offer of advice, I may have to take you up on that at some point! Glad you were able to get the spring made for the pawl on the throttle lever. And as far as where to get piano wire, I think that McMaster Carr sells it.
Edited by Brendan (AB) - 18 Aug 2016 at 12:14am
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 7:15pm |
Looks like a very good starting point Brendan! Much more complete than what I began with. Be sure to keep us updated on your progress, I love looking at these old beauties. 
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 1:52pm |
WOW has it been too long since I've updated this post! I spent a bunch of the summer chasing after my other old 20-35's and getting them home, so progress on the '27 suffered. But I just took a few pics off of my phone and uploaded them to my Photobucket, so I will try to play catch up with this post a bit.I believe I mentioned in the past that I was converting the original oil filter to use a modern canister type filter to replace the original spring and sock setup. While I was home over the holidays I snapped a couple of pics of what we did to convert the original housing.
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 25 Mar 2018 at 9:43pm
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 1:56pm |
Another note I'm not sure in which of my threads to post is this, so I'll put it here.By accident I stumbled upon this bit of info. The water manifolds for shortfender 20-35's and longfenders are different in height. Haven't pulled out the tape measure yet, but am thinking the difference comes into play on the different radiators and where there upper neck is located?
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMw-W2_yghlqdtaQTxKWwnjA2jQPZ4rec8kTtiRGnDvSvFkHie9t4jmlkD6DbqUew/photo/AF1QipPgCJvbmFI0cirtOJJWaJEk5ldUpzxwYgCwMe8-?key=b1kyNl92RG81NVRZeDZ0OHNpYWxYTFNsb0JxVzB3
Just thought it was an interesting difference and worth noting.
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 25 Mar 2018 at 9:45pm
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 1:57pm |
SO, while I was home over the holidays, my goal was to finally get the heads and manifolds bolted back onto the block of my '27! Sounds easy enough, but sure fought me every step of the way it seemed.The first thing I did was order up the new studs and nuts I needed for all of this from McMaster Carr. While I was waiting for them to arrive I went back to the valve spring clips that we talked about previously in this thread. I went the route that Phil suggested and took everything back apart, put the clip on the valve stem and reassembled the spring and keeper and then took a small screwdriver and slid the clip up into the grove.Talk about a pain in the ass! You can't see what you are doing so it is mainly a hope that everything is right and it is in the groove well. Next tractor I do I will make sure the valves are machined correctly or will drill my own hole for a cotter pin like they had originally! Something so simple really makes the process frustrating! But once this was done I focused on getting other things ready. They also fought me....
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 2:00pm |
So this past summer I got a good used exhaust manifold which was great. It just needed to be fly cut to clean up the ports where it meets the head as they were a bit pitted and ugly like they usually are. No big deal, I usually just take things like this to our local NAPA and they take care of the machining for me as we don't have the proper equipment to tackle this yet.But do to unfortunate circumstances they no longer do the machining in house and have to send it down to Rice lake WI NAPA to be done. Again, normally this would not be a problem, but this trip I was under a time crunch and didn't plan ahead enough to have this done and get it back in time to get the heads put back on the tractor. I really wanted to get this assembly done this trip, so I improvised. How hard could it be to get this manifold trued up myself?I brainstormed and came up with a plan. First step was to mount the manifold to a piece of large angle iron. After laying out and drilling some holes in the angle iron, and coming up with some spacers and bolts to fasten the manifold to the angle, I had the manifold sitting square with the world.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMw-W2_yghlqdtaQTxKWwnjA2jQPZ4rec8kTtiRGnDvSvFkHie9t4jmlkD6DbqUew/photo/AF1QipP2M2Ay9L4O1R3iNKKWo5urnPxn-bR77OCo6NSl?key=b1kyNl92RG81NVRZeDZ0OHNpYWxYTFNsb0JxVzB3
I fabbed up a jig to clamp to the table saw fence, which would give the bottom edge of the angle iron something to ride against straight and square with the sanding disc I had placed in the table saw. This is a metal disc that you put a self adhesive sanding disc on to use the table saw like a disc sander. Normally used for woodworking, but I break the rules.  I did have to chase all over town to find the correct sanding discs made for sanding metal.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMw-W2_yghlqdtaQTxKWwnjA2jQPZ4rec8kTtiRGnDvSvFkHie9t4jmlkD6DbqUew/photo/AF1QipPfhMh26mJRcCwemc7XFVdf-dFq5gqhGgdV-edF?key=b1kyNl92RG81NVRZeDZ0OHNpYWxYTFNsb0JxVzB3
So then with light passes back and forth I sanded the ports all smooth and true. With the fence jig carefully set in in small increments more and more could be taken off of the manifold until it was all trued up.
Here is the final product.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMw-W2_yghlqdtaQTxKWwnjA2jQPZ4rec8kTtiRGnDvSvFkHie9t4jmlkD6DbqUew/photo/AF1QipMJ4UTo2wLTVtphdj2fTSmu8ztevd8qacMlDi4O?key=b1kyNl92RG81NVRZeDZ0OHNpYWxYTFNsb0JxVzB3
Took me entirely too long to get it all figured out and to work good, (as I tried another attempt first, but that did not work so I won't even tell you about it). But in the end it worked good, and I didn't have to send it out to be done.
Would have been more enjoyable to do if the garage the table saw is in were not 0 degrees in though. Stupid winter.
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 25 Mar 2018 at 9:48pm
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 2:01pm |
So with my manifold cleaned up and the heads ready, I set it all up on the workbench (in the garage with heat ) to dry fit everything to make sure everything was right and mated up good before I brought them out the barn to put on the tractor.
Everything seemed to be good, so I took it all back apart and loaded everything up in the truck to head to the barn.
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 25 Mar 2018 at 9:50pm
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 2:03pm |
It was well below zero when I was out in the barn putting everything together, so I didn't stop for many pictures. One must bundle up and work fast to get anything done in these temps. I was determined to get this done though! A few trip to warm up by the wood stove in the cabin were made that day. It is surprising how much you can do with gloves on when it's that cold, even though it sure is inconvenient.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMw-W2_yghlqdtaQTxKWwnjA2jQPZ4rec8kTtiRGnDvSvFkHie9t4jmlkD6DbqUew/photo/AF1QipP7oE0kolOksAq4fD-NNQ6U3C3g0Fm7sMNVo8Pp?key=b1kyNl92RG81NVRZeDZ0OHNpYWxYTFNsb0JxVzB3
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMw-W2_yghlqdtaQTxKWwnjA2jQPZ4rec8kTtiRGnDvSvFkHie9t4jmlkD6DbqUew/photo/AF1QipPk1PdSAx0pg4f4o8RDSLkDHrtNQITvnm7AlQu2?key=b1kyNl92RG81NVRZeDZ0OHNpYWxYTFNsb0JxVzB3
Heads torqued down to block. I did 60 lbs on the head nuts, except for the center one which is only 40 lbs because the block is very thin in this area and easy to break something. These are the numbers that were suggested to me from others that have done these tractors. There are no service manuals for these old AC's.
I forgot to mention that before I torqued down the heads I first placed everything on the block, then the manifolds on the heads and snugged them up by hand, then once everything was lined up good, the heads were torqued down in increments, then the manifolds were torqued down to the heads last. This way the manifolds and heads are in line and there is no unneeded stress on the manifold or head ears, so hopefully nothing will break.
I torqued the manifolds to 25 lbs.
I then placed the carb back on the tractor which has previously been rebuilt. I then put a few of the linkages back on the tractor for the carb, and looked at a few more details that will have to be addressed. By then I had spent enough time in the cold, time to go home!
I guess that is about it for now. Sure is a long road to bring one of these beauties back to life. But we made a huge step in the right direction getting these things done!
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 25 Mar 2018 at 9:52pm
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
HD6GTOM
Orange Level
Joined: 30 Nov 2009
Location: MADISON CO IA
Points: 6627
|
Post Options
Thanks(1)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 3:43pm |
|
Jacobe. We have been wondering about your project. Thank you for the updates. Looking good
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 10:04pm |
There, wow, I took WAY too much time this weekend to transfer my pics from my old Photobucket account to my Google Photos account. I have placed all my pics from this tractor project in an album, and I will continue to add to that album as I progress.
I also spent the time to go though this entire thread and update and edit the photos and links to my Google Photos page. So all links should be good now.
As far as I can see, the only drawback is that I can not embed the pics directly in threads, but I can put in links to the pics.
As for an actual update, I really have not made any progress in a long time. I did end up taking the heads back off of the tractor to check that I had the valves in the correct places. The only difference between the new exhaust and intake valves is the Exhaust have a small S on the center of the head. After I had gotten the heads all back on I had realized I was not confident I had checked the valves were in the correct places. So after sleeping on it a long while, I decided to take them back off to be sure. Ends up, I did have them all right, all along!
I also wanted to rework the manifold holes and studs a bit too, as I was not 100% happy with how everything went together. It all probably would have been fine, but I wanted to be 100% sure about it. So I have drilled the manifold stud holes out a bit and tweaked some of the studs a touch to get everything to line up better with no stress on anything.
I also wanted to seal up where the rocker arm shafts go through the ends of the heads, to prevent oil leaks. This was recommended to me and I'd prefer as few leaks as possible. Next tractor I may have these machined to put an O ring on them to seal it up.
So once the rocker arm shafts get a finger full of sealant on them the heads and manifolds can go BACK on the tractor again. And then I'll be back to where I was. I swear, the next 20-35 will be much easier, this one is my learning curve 
But bedsides that, I've been working on house remodel stuff, and barn addition stuff. Gotta have a place to put all these tractors, hopefully we'll get that wrapped up this spring/summer. Been picking away on it this last fall and through the winter. So the few times I've been home in the last year I've been working on that instead of tractors.
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
AndrewGubbels
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: nebraska
Points: 1486
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 12:08am |
|
it sure is looking good! I see just a couple of small pieces that look to be from nebraska at one time! I cant wait to see the finished tractor! They take so much time to finish!
Andy
|
|
Andrew Gubbels
Gubbels Restoration
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 9:34pm |
 AndrewGubbels wrote:
it sure is looking good! I see just a couple of small pieces that look to be from nebraska at one time! I cant wait to see the finished tractor! They take so much time to finish!
Andy
|
Thanks Andy, yeah the exhaust manifold and throttle quadrant cleaned up nicely, and worked out beautifully. I know I got a few other things from you, but those were the two harder ones to find, thanks again! You and me both want to see this thing done, I knew it would not just fall together over night, but it sure is taking longer than I expected. When life happens, a year can slip by with out even noticing. SO many things to do, so little time...
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Aug 2018 at 5:07pm |
Hi all,
Boy has it been a busy summer, with all the tractor shows to attend, and new rusty junk to run after and drag home. I have not had much tractor working time, but I did manage to get a few things done my last couple of trips home to WI.
Figured I should update this tread a bit. Not sure if anyone is even following it any more, it has gotten so drug out.
I figured out a plan to clean out the oil tube that mounts along side the block, that feeds the oil lines for the tractor from the oil pump. Dad and I figured if we could get a brush down the length of the tube would be best, to make sure there was no rust, crust, gunk blocking oil passages. But there is no access for such a thing. So what we did was drill out the rear end of the tube, then tapped it for a pipe plug. We then got down the length of the tube with a gun cleaning kit and got it squeaky clean. When done, insert pipe plug and when on the tractor it is hidden by the clutch housing and tube mounting bracket.
I ended up having to take the torch and heat up the tube and straighten it out some so it would line up with all three oil ports, as well as the main port from the oil pump in the oil pan. Nothing is ever easy with these old tractors, but that is part of the fun and games.
Note that the oil lines have different restrictions on the fittings for different locations. This may help someone down the road, so I made a little note for future reference.
Here are photos of this:
We then turned our attention to finishing up the oil filter canister conversion. This was mostly done, and I may have mentioned this in the past? Just had to drill some holes in the center tube, and make a new o-ring for the canister to seal up to the housing. We went to Napa and the great guy behind the counter (he knows we are old tractor guys, and likes the challenge of what we might ask for when we come in, LOL!) Found us a square O-ring *just* about the right size. It was a hair too big in OD. So we took it home and made up a quick jig on the disc sander and sanded it down a touch. One vintage metal coffee can to slip the O-ring around (already taken off can in pic) sand a bit, Perfect fit!
For future reference it is a 1125 Napa filter.
Here are some pics of this:
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Aug 2018 at 5:24pm |
We then worked on the air cleaner a bit more. Got the new paper filter that I got from Norm installed in the main housing, though it was a bit short so we put a layer of self sticking foam gasket material around the top and bottom side to seal against the rough cast housing better, and that solved the problem.
The ring that the glass jar screws into in the bottom tin canister was in poor shape. After studying it a bit, Dad and I came to the conclusion it is just a canning jar lid soldered into the tin housing. So we warmed it up with the propane torch to melt the solder, and pulled it out. We then put a new canning jar lid in and soldered it in place. Problem solved.
The inside of the tin housing is still dirty, so we put it in a pail of diesel to soak and clean, but once cleaned out, the air cleaner can go back together and back one the tractor.
pics of this:
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Aug 2018 at 5:30pm |
I then cleaned up all the parts for the water pump. We got the big torch out and got the set screws loose from the new impeller I also got from Norm along with the new shaft. We don't know why they were so stuck, but they sure were.
I was going to just put the pump together with the worn out water packing bushings and fix it better down the road, but Dad convinced me to try to find some new bushings and do it now. So it is basically ready to final assemble, just waiting on new bushings. So that is on hold for the time being.
Pics of this:
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Aug 2018 at 6:31pm |
Then I wanted to get done the project I have been waiting to do. One I hoped would be fairly easy and straight forward. Take apart the radiator, clean and reassemble with new bolts and gaskets.
We had previously flushed the radiator, and tested to see how much it leaked. It was full of mouse habitat, and just for that reason I wanted to take it apart. I didn't want that crap getting in my brand new clean engine! It also has a couple very minor leaks at the seams of where the tanks meet the core, so I hope the new gaskets will fix that issue. The core itself looks great. I took a long little brush I got from one of the vendors at a tractor show, and went up each tube and cleaned them all out. All were free and clear, so there should be no over heating issues here. I then took about and hour and straightened the fins on the front side of the core, that made it look much better.
Had to make one new flat stock bar piece to clamp the core to the tanks, as the original was rotten beyond use.
I cleaned up all the parts, and then we put it all back together. I somehow forgot to order the 1 1/4" long square headed bolts needed along with the 1" ones, so we just have it temped together for now. But we put it back one the tractor, and once the bolts come in, it will just be a matter of putting them on and the radiator will be done! Cross you fingers it don't leak.
Pics of this: https://photos.app.goo.gl/eJCd8vhiSmqy78ZJ9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/ARH7ETxsHn3aBFZ27 https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ZPoMNY23KGsLspz7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/aM2Y4shjofTTaRvEA https://photos.app.goo.gl/yxsFJ8sswXDsL2PS7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mc4RvuqzYT1M2M7v6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/n1sLkgj7CyHfaNVq6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/QCUiM98Zaoqyem2q6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/Wo4NKSTqi3QG3PQp6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/VejskvrM7WPpZXcw5 https://photos.app.goo.gl/UY2zqKbaepVm1o6C9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/F3aSr3rpZ8vYdqQK6
(Edit: not sure why these links are not live like the rest? But if you highlight and right click it will still take you to the pics, strange)
So the tractor is starting to look like a tractor again:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/z1jjcCWR1eJWs81n8
I think that is about it for this project for now. Slowly but surely I'll get it together. I have to round up some flexible brass tubing for the oil lines, and those bolts I mentioned for the radiator.
Then I'd like to get some original looking radiator hose. I did a quick look on line and found some here:
But I'm not ready to spend the 100$ to get the three feet of hand wrapped, unmarked original looking stuff shipped to me. If anyone has other sources, I'd like to know. Otherwise I'll just get some regular old stuff from the auto store locally.
But you know, the devil is in the details.
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 18 Aug 2018 at 6:37pm
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Jan 2019 at 3:39pm |
Hi all!It has been several months since I last updated this thread, so it is time I guess. Trying to remember where I was with this thread.I was home in Ashland WI over both the Thanksgiving and Christmas/New years holidays. I made some tractor wrenching time between the family get togethers.Dad and I got the front axle assembly off of the Hybrid tractor it was temporarily on, and put it back on this '27 that it belongs on. The barn expansion project is nearly complete (few trim pieces to put on yet, and need to finish up the loft) so once the front axle was back under the tractor we could pull it back a bit in the barn, since the tractors that were previously behind it were moved. This located it in a better spot to be able to work on it, not quite so crammed up against the wall.https://photos.app.goo.gl/E2cr71two62NHuaQ6Since I had previously gotten the oil supply tube back on the block, this trip I spent the time bending up new oil lines, and getting everything hooked up. I had sourced the BENDABLE brass line from MSC.https://www.mscdirect.com/This was the only place I was able to find that had bendable brass line. Other places it was rigid and not bendable. And the lines were originally brass. Many people use copper to replace them, but I wanted to keep things as original as possible.Here are a few pics of the new lines bent up and installed.https://photos.app.goo.gl/XrZabrEekkB7iqQF7https://photos.app.goo.gl/nR6x73qXv3NJM3nB8https://photos.app.goo.gl/egatndySjAcy3Jaz6I also got the reproduction oil gauge installed in the dash and plumbed up. I want to get the original style piston gauge remade and installed someday, but for now this gauge will work.https://photos.app.goo.gl/RwiptQnaEGqMmqGs6I ended up getting some radiator hose from NAPA for the radiator connections, and from the carb to the air cleaner. It has the kinda hand wrapped look, and the lettering on it I hid where it can't be seen much. I'll have to get original hose clamps on it someday as well, but for now modern clamps will do the job. The radiator will have to come back off to put the fan shroud on once I can check that there are no leaks in the radiator.I also had rounded up the correct bolts for the radiator, so I finished bolting that all together.https://photos.app.goo.gl/FSd6KxgCTmnMNSGr8https://photos.app.goo.gl/VESkLF87poshCPFR9Let's see, then I got the bottom canister for the air cleaner cleaned out. We had that soaking in diesel since the last time I was home, and that softened up all the junk that was caked inside of it. Still took a while to clean it all out, but when I had it clean I put it back on the air cleaner with a glass jar. Then I put it back on the tractor and hooked up the hose to the carb.https://photos.app.goo.gl/KcRTRyuDr5herTtq9https://photos.app.goo.gl/QxKnfMoJcUKHyrnV7So, I think that was about it. There was a lot of little piddly things, adjusting linkages and lines, putting in cotter keys, bolts, and getting correct fittings where they needed to be. You know, all the fussy stuff to get things done.So this is where it sits as of now:https://photos.app.goo.gl/Tijm5kfHW6rQ1MhB7The hold up now is getting Dads new (used) metal lathe up and running so we can make a few parts. He got it from an auction all disconnected and unwired, but was told it ran when they brought it to the auction. Of course there is no wiring diagram, and between the motor and reversing switch he hasn't been able to figure out the correct way to wire it up. So any advice there is appreciated. But once it is going, we need to make some bushings for the water pump, and then that can go back together and then back on the tractor. Then need to time up the mag, run some plug wires.Polish up the push rods, and adjust the valves.Figure out how to clean out the gas tank and get that patched yet.And a few other minor things and we can try to get this thing to run!So I usually don't make them, but that is my New Years resolution: To get this blasted tractor running this summer. Preferably soon enough in the year to be able to bring it to a tractor show or two!
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Mar 2019 at 8:25pm |
Hi all, So it's been a couple months now, I don't have a ton of progress, but a couple of small updates are better than nothing.The good news is that Dad got his lathe up and running! He had one of his electrical buddies come check out the motor. Turns out it was shot, so that's why he wasn't having any luck getting it going. Kind of frustrating since it was sold to him as being in operational condition when brought to the auction. Not true. But he sourced a new motor locally for a fair price, and are now good to go. Still needs to locate it permanently in the shop and level it all up and everything, but getting it going was the big hurdle. One question for you all: What should the ends of the push rods look like where they sit in the lifters? I've talked to a couple guys and the consensus seems to be just a slight crown to the ends. Some of mine are rather worn and badly pitted. We want to polish them up, or try to save the poor ones. Might end up going through the hardened end? Not sure how deep that goes. We have nothing to loose I guess, they are no good as is. So any suggestions welcome.Other good news is that the cleaning and repair of the fuel tank has begun. I knew we would find a use for that cement mixer we fixed up many years ago I even tried my hand at basic video editing, so don't laugh.[TUBE]5sJkIHZ1lBo[/TUBE]
Seems to be working good so far according to Dad, he let it rotate for a bit today to test the process. He just has a chunk of logging chain in there rolling around. Easier to fish out than nuts and bolts like some people suggest. There is a baffle in the tank too, so one doesn't want to put anything in there that can't be easily fished back out. Once clean there are a few pin holes that will need to be soldered/welded up.But as always, we are open to suggestions and ideas!Tanks, er I mean Thanks!
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 27 Apr 2019 at 1:17pm |
Story time,So I made a trip back home for a long Easter weekend. Got to spend some time with the family, and also got to spend some time working on tractors.We kinda were ridding the struggle bus this trip. I was getting a bit frustrated. Not sure why, I should know by now things never go smoothly. I'll try to sum up the weekend in a shorter version.The goal was to get oil in the 20-35 and belt it up to my 1948 Allis Chalmers C and turn it over to check for oil pressure, flow, bad noises, etc... in preparation for starting. We weren't ready to try starting yet, as water pump is still not done. But now have the bushing materials and tooling for the lathe, so almost there.Easy enough goals right? Wrong.Got the oil, that was easy enough. Didn't get enough the first time (2 1/2 gallon jug wasn't enough!) , so had to make a second trip to store. Fill engine up, ok.Had to still get the push rods cleaned up, Dad put them in lathe, cleaned and polished them up a bit. Pics of that:https://photos.app.goo.gl/GQFhEjzGGfdXBezu8https://photos.app.goo.gl/UD2x8doXdXcrkvAd6https://photos.app.goo.gl/ftcuM77DB5dekniF6Got them put in tractor and adjusted the valves. Set them to .020" I had made up the "tool box bottom braces" as per the specs in the parts manual, so I installed the tool box on the deck of the tractor.https://photos.app.goo.gl/95S5MiFZo3aj9MMt6To backtrack a second, while I was still at my house I had taken two original fuel strainer bowl assemblies (with bad castings) and taken them apart, and took the best parts from them and assembled them on a new casting from a new assembly. To form as close to original fuel bowl assembly as I could manage.https://photos.app.goo.gl/qyiCvEn5ovZTu9qc8https://photos.app.goo.gl/iQWdnKrmR9xt9ZJ19We still need to patch tank, but the bowl is ready. And I got new 5/16" flexible copper line to make the gas line.Ok, we were almost ready to belt it up. But my C needed some work. I recently had switched from a distributor to a magneto. Again to make a long story short, the governor timing gear was off two teeth to be timed correctly for a magneto. So we took that apart and corrected that. Got the tractor timed up and started and fiddled with it a bit to get it to run good, as it hadn't ran since last year, and not much at that point either. drained old gas and put new in. Cleaned plugs, etc... Finally got running and changed oil and filter as that needed to be done. Adjusted the valves on that too, as they were way off. (we didn't know much when we "restored" that tractor back in 2003)Ok, got a running tractor to run the belt (only running tractor we currently have that has a belt pulley on it). Now we need a belt. Had previously borrowed a belt from a friend to use for this, but when we unrolled it and started to look at it closer, it made us a bit uneasy. It was a bit sketchy. Played it safe and decided to make up our own. We had a good piece of belting, but there were no lacing ends on it. Bought the clipper lacing ends. But we do not have the installation tool to put the lacing ends on the belt, sigh.....Asked around and Dad finally found one of his friends had one. Got them installed. Ok, we had a belt and a tractor, got it made now right?Nope.Got the tractors belted up, but discovered we had bad belt slippage. And no belt dressing. Have I mentioned lately we are rookies? And this was on my last day home, and end of the day at that.So we *kinda* got the 20-35 turned over. Enough to see oil coming up to the rocker covers, so the oil pump must be doing it's thing. Didn't get it turning over enough to see how much pressure we actually had.Then discovered the oil tube to block connections were leaking, so took a step backwards and took that apart to have to fix that.https://photos.app.goo.gl/EBy45sykeQp3YEzR9https://photos.app.goo.gl/BxWmzEZP6m9Nw1BZ6https://photos.app.goo.gl/5nqR5zkmSRNTZj1o9https://photos.app.goo.gl/d2gX1vWh97GG9t4a8Can we count any of this struggle as a victory? 
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 May 2019 at 10:03pm |
Well ladies and gentlemen, four years of effort finally payed off this past weekend!
I made a trip back home to WI last Thursday. Our goal was to try to get my 20-35 to finally run. But we had some hurdles to cross before we could do that.
Dad and I started the morning at 4:30 Friday morning. This is not normal for me, but I knew we had a lot of ground to cover in a short amount of time. We began by making up a spark wire tube out of the material I had gotten from McMaster Carr. Cut it to 25" the length the parts manual called for. Laid out the holes based on my old one, where the clips were located, and rough guesses based on pics from the parts manual. We went with four 5/8" holes drilled in a row. Used a spade bit. Cleaned up with a little sand paper, all worked well.
Rounded up everything we thought we'd need and headed to the woods.
Got the spark tube installed on the engine, and ran the spark plug wires. I ended up leaving them a couple inches longer than the parts manual called for, for now. I didn't want to short myself, can always shorten them later.
Rigged up a temporary gas tank, since the original tank is still in the process of being fixed.
Still had to address the leaky oil tube. First we tried to put it back together like before, hoping we just had one of the copper washers in there cocked or something stupid. Tightened everything up.
Pulled the 20-35 out of the barn with my little Allis C. Then hooked the two together with the belt pulley. Now was the time to see if the belt dressing was going to do the trick.
Began to turn the 20-35 over and Dad sprayed some belt dressing on the belt, that stuff is like magic! Belt softened right up even more and became "grippy" rubber. Nearly no more slippage. Awesome, I know I shouldn't be so amazed, but it is the little things in life that you learn sometimes.
Well, we have good grip, lets turn the engine over some and check things again. Spark is still not hooked up. Turn it over a bit and the oil tube is still leaking. Not quite as bad as before, but still bad nonetheless.
Take it back apart and scratch our heads what to try next. After some discussion decided to try making thin paper gasket washers the size of the copper washers. One for either side of the copper washer on all three places. All back together and turn the belt over some more. Very little to no leaks! Tighten things some more and try again. Appears to be not leaking now, great.
Also there is 25 lbs of oil pressure, and no bad noises, that's a good sign. Remove engine side covers and feel around bearings, nothing seems warm, so fairly confident everything is ok down there.
Time to figure out some spark. Get engine so #1 is at top dead center on compression. Fiddle with mag and get it where we think it needs to be and couple it with the water pump. Turn engine over again back to TDC on #1 and see if mag trips when it should. Nope, it don't. So we change things and try a few more times. Finally get it really close. With Dad looking at #1 piston with long piece of wire down spark plug hole I slowly turn over as he watches. As it gets to TDC or just a fuzz after the mag trips. Perfect, that should be good to go.
OK, we have spark, compression, and hopefully gas.
All systems appear to be good to go!
Add water to the cooling system. Several leaks in the various connections and in where top and bottom tank meet core on the radiator. Address these where we can. Holding enough for now, can revisit more leaks later.
It is getting late in the day and we still have not tried to start it yet.
Are we ready now? I think so. Are we forgetting anything? Probably but lets give it a go.
I hop on my C and Dad gets on the 20-35. Turn it over and it makes no attempt to start. Hummmmm...... Why not? What are we doing wrong? Scratch heads. Double check things. We are getting gas, yes. Spark timing is right, yes. Hummmm.....
Dad asks me "Are you sure you have the firing order correct?"
Well I hope so, let me look at the manual again and check how I put the wires in the cap.
Firing order is 1-3-4-2, that is correct, hummmmmm.....
But WAIT, I was using the diagram for a Clockwise mag, this is an Anti-Clockwise mag, I have the right firing order, just the wrong rotation! Swap two wires with each other and that is better.
Let's try again, almost time for supper. We each hop on a tractor again and this is what happened:
[TUBE]FqDazsq2tLc[/TUBE]
This is the honest to goodness first start, bad as it might be. As can be seen it was set wayyyy to rich initially, but once Dad started screwing down the adjustments you can hear it smooth right out and all the black smoke goes away.
It quickly ran out of gas, so we filled the little tank again and started it for the second time: [TUBE]GFK2swysWYQ[/TUBE]
[TUBE]8nb1pG8_AB0[/TUBE]
[TUBE]UL7KCwOQ5Mk[/TUBE]
In the interest of full disclosure, things were still not right at this point. I'll elaborate in a minute, but for now it was getting late and we figured we better call it a day. Still had to put everything away and head back for supper, which we were already late for.
Pulled it back into the barn under it's own power! [TUBE]OH1PeXNXJMs[/TUBE]
So we packed up and headed home. Emotions are mixed at this point. Obviously happy that the tractor finally is running after four years of work. Still shocked that it actually came to life. Adrenaline was pumping for sure that first fire! Fear as well, listening for bad noises, hoping nothing goes wrong, and that we didn't forget anything important. I think this is the worst for me, after all this time, I really don't want to wreck something.
It is kind of a roller coaster of emotions.
But talk about satisfaction! It has been a long road getting to this point.
After the excitement simmered down a bit, and we were home, we got to talking about how the throttle (governor) control didn't seem to be doing anything. And why that was?
I was a bit puzzled, so I called in the advice of a pro. I texted my friend Matt Folstad who within the last year or so has been through the exact same things on his tractor, which is the exact same tractor as I have. I told him what symptoms we were having. He said I probably had the spring for my carburetor butterfly wound the wrong way.
I looked through my pictures, and sure enough, on the finished carburetor pics the butterfly is shut, it should be open!
It rained all day Saturday. So we didn't go to the woods.
It rained and then SNOWED all day Sunday, so we didn't go again.
But come Monday, we were itching to get at it!
First thing I did was go out there and switch that spring around.
With the spring in the carb right, it actually started on the third hand crank Monday morning!
Still needs work, but here is the maiden voyage. [TUBE]9T9JuzU0mus[/TUBE]
Dad had an appointment with Mom that morning, so he met me out there about lunch time. By then I had gotten the carburetor fiddled with and fixed/adjusted/ done a few other things. Started flushing out the transmission with diesel.
So he took it for a ride then. [TUBE]AZHq2fJS6Z4[/TUBE]
As did I: [TUBE]1UZfUWP4H7Q[/TUBE]
So all in all it was a VERY good weekend. We worked on it some Tuesday, and then also worked on some other projects. I headed back to ND on Wednesday.
Still need to figure out why it doesn't want to idle down lower like I think it should?
Not sure if it is still a carb spring issue, or something else?
Well, that is enough story time for one night. I'll post more later.
But I do want to give a HUGE shout out to everyone who has helped me in any way with this project up to this point!!! I don't want to list names because I'd surely leave someone out, but I hope you all know who you are, and how much I do truly appreciate everything you have done to help! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!!
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 23 May 2019 at 10:11pm
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 7980
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 May 2019 at 10:27pm |
|
Congratulations !!!! Lotta work/hrs but rewarding!
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8167
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 May 2019 at 7:17am |
Jacob, Thanks very much for the update! Makes me want to go work on my Allis too! Love the roller coaster feeling of first start up comments. I will have that on my unit tooi! Great project for you and your Dad to work on together also. Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
savedallis1953
Bronze Level
Joined: 03 Jan 2018
Location: Florida
Points: 136
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 May 2019 at 10:30am |
|
Another Beautiful American made machine. Built to last 500 years easily.
|
|
1953 WD, 1953 WD, WD engine with WD-45 crankshaft.
|
|
Pat the Plumber CIL
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Springfield,Il
Points: 4677
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 May 2019 at 12:44pm |
|
Thanks for updating us and posting the videos / pictures . Congratulations on all of your hard work and persistence. You deserve a lot of credit for keeping after this all this time. Keep up the good work and keep us in the loop . Any chance of you bringing it to hutch in the future?
|
|
You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails
1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF.
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(1)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 May 2019 at 7:55pm |
Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words. It really is a big project, these old ones. Finding parts is harder, thought I LOVE the networking and meeting new like minded people along the way. And I know I have learned a LOT the last four years throughout this project. Much from guys like you! But I am far from done with this tractor. Hopefully by the time snow flies we can call it "kinda done", but tractors are never really done are they?
Pat, the goal is to bring this to Hutchinson MN for the Orange Spectacular, THIS year (2019). I'm not making that promise that it will happen quite yet though. The punch list of things that need to be done yet include: -Get some more leaks buttoned up. -Get the transmission checked and filled with some new goop. -At the very least grease up final drive bull gears/pinions, at best pull wheels off to see condition of bull gears. -Get the gas tank fixed and installed on tractor with new gas line and fuel bowl. -Figure out the carb and why it don't idle down quite as much as it should, I think it is a matter of that spring yet? -Straighten out hood and fenders a bit to make them a bit more presentable. -Decide what to put on the wheels to make it show friendly. At least blacktop and nice grass friendly, it would be nice to be able to bring in parade, etc... I have a couple ideas here that I am checking out. -Install other extension rim. -Install radiator fan shroud. We were waiting to do this to check out leaks. -Pin in steering wheel. -Pin in front axle. -Install hand crank clip.
And I'm sure there are a few more things I am forgetting. But since it has taken so long to get to this point we really want to get it out and USE it a bit and enjoy it before we tear into some things (like final drives) to assess/fix them.
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
mhankins
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Feb 2019
Location: Arkansas
Points: 134
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 25 May 2019 at 8:04am |
|
That was a big job! Kudos!
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 5:36pm |
Oh boy, it's been a couple months and I have not been keeping up on updating this thread. I'll try to get you all caught up again.
Since my last post I made a trip home for the long 4th of July weekend. That would be our last big push to get the bugs worked out of the system to have the tractor ready for the Orange Spectacular show in Hutchinson MN the weekend of July 26th 2019. That had been our goal for some time.
So we had brought the gas tank to a professional welder to have a new bottom put in, as the old one was rotten and very thin. Dad had done the prep work and cut the old tank bottom out, used a pneumatic tool to put a step in the tank for the patch to sit in. He cleaned up the inside of the tank. He also took apart the original sediment bowl fitting so it could be re-riveted and soldered to the new bottom. Brought all this to the welder to see of he could put it all back together. Welder said sure. This was a few weeks before I came home for the 4th, all Dad told him was that we needed it back before the 4th, no hurry, no problem.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jgcZ3EUiKbiNxndx7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QDxFk6KXt5Z3cBzv6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pKy1YAVU5CkBhofZ8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/v98tWTrhqjSJ5FkZ6
Jump ahead and I'm home for the 4th. Still no tank back, call him up and he'll have it done that day, stop by that next morning. Ok, so we did, and he was still working on it, sigh.... we told him we'd stop back that evening on our way back to town. We did, appeared ok, paid the man and went on our way.
So after all this, and us not trusting anyone these days it seems, we decided to test the tank ourselves when we got home (even though the welder told us he had tested it and it was not leaking anywhere). Did the old little bit of air pressure in tank and spray with soapy water trick. Leaks everywhere!
Sigh... not happy, but not about to bring it back to him after all of this. We were not 100% happy with how he had done things as it was. I'm not going to say who this welder is, because I have seen some of his other work and it is beautiful, fixing tanks is just not his thing I guess, and he had admitted he had never really done that before. Chalk it up to experience.
So we tried our hand at soldering up the leaks. Tried a propane torch and solder like doing a copper pipe first (as we both can do that no problem), and that was a fail, started warping the tank from the heat. Then we went to YouTube to look for ideas, after watching a few videos we tried plan B.
With a large old soldering iron, and a good heat gun to preheat the area we were working on, we were having success! Cleaned the area well, fluxed, heat with torch, then hit with soldering iron and solder, and with a little practice we were sealing them up. This may not be the right way, or the best way, but it worked with what we had to work with and our abilities, LOL!
After many tests with the soapy water we finally got to where it was leak free.
I apologize for not documenting this well, or at all for that matter. We were kind of frustrated, so I didn't stop to take any pics or videos.
Finally got the tank put back on the tractor, and rounded up the flair fittings and bent up a gas line. Hooked up the rebuilt fuel bowl, and gas line to the carb, put some gas in and.... more leaks, sigh.....
So the NEW fuel bowl casting was warped and the glass bowl was not sealing up. We made a softer cork gasket to get by that day, but later Dad took it off chucked it up in the lathe and trued it up, and that fixed the problem and once again we could use the nice rubber gasket.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BxcyTSeyc6uavggR7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/GkLLT6RatJfppjfm9
Not sure if I shared my rebuilding pics before? Took the parts of two original bowls and one new and made one good mostly original bowl assembly.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/s1vr7TKyJCsfscP67
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZfvE1pW5HerYnnVV7
And then after all this, ran it for a bit turned off the gas and it was still dripping and not shutting off, what the heck?! Ended up a piece of rusty crud from the tank got in the shut off seat and galled it up. So take it all back off and apart, touch up the seat and needle and put it all back together.
So the tank is back on the tractor, gas hooked up and good. We fiddled with the governor linkages, the carb butterfly spring, and whatnot and were making much improvement to how it was starting and idling down nicer.
Oh did I mention that the radiator had to come back apart and have the core patched in one place by the radiator guy? So once that was done Dad put the radiator back together and that is holding water now. In fact the entire cooling system is essentially leak free! Tiny drip from the radiator drain, but I actually have a new one coming to replace it as the lever is broken anyway. Again, we are not impressed by professional help, the professional radiator guy couldn't even get the overflow tube extended properly, it fell off in Dad's hand once he got it home, so Dad soldered it on himself correctly.
Jump back, I forgot to mention that Dad had gotten the transmission cleaned out and new 000 EP Grease dumped in before I got home. So we then put the new transmission cover gasket on, and installed the cover for good. Then we could bolt the firewall all back solid as that goes over the transmission cover.
Once that was done we turned our attention to straightening out the hood. Little body work to make it more presentable and we put that on the tractor for the first time and actually bolted it down.
Jump back again (trying to get stories caught up is tricky when you're this far behind, LOL!). I had ordered up a sign from Vistaprint. I designed it online and they print it on sign board which is thin aluminum over a plastic core. I'm impressed with it. I made up the stand from junk I had laying around. It folds up for transportation.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4zyUXRoGCyMiVUMCA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dEQgGBgc2sc5jhSg8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2Hqq7meoRiKw258d7
Then we turned our attention to putting the extension rim back on that had been off and fixed years ago at this point. And tightening up all the loose bolts on the other extension rim. And the loose bolts on the final drives. That was a work out! Getting them loose and tightened up on a hot July day, who needs a gym membership when you have old rusty iron to work on?!
And we spent some time doing some more "body work" on the bent up left fender. Still needs a lot of work, but considering how bent it was to start, it is MUCH better. More work can be done some day when that wheel comes off so we can actually swing a hammer inside the fender to tune it up better.
So we had the tractor about together and most of the bugs worked out by this point, it was high time for a test drive!
We took it all the way out to the road and back (maybe a mile), which was the farthest it had been thus far. Here is a short clip from that adventure.[TUBE]/q_Y3z5kVxh0[/TUBE]
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 10 Aug 2019 at 5:37pm
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 5:38pm |
So things were going pretty good, no major new problems were coming up, sure little ones, like chasing oil leaks etc... but that was minor in the big picture. We make the final decision that we would be bringing the tractor to Hutch, and I went back to ND.Then things went downhill fast.A week or so after I was back home Dad texts me that we have a major problem and probably shouldn't run the tractor any more. My heart sank to the pit of my stomach.He sent these pics.https://photos.app.goo.gl/XA1rpk1k8esDknXd7https://photos.app.goo.gl/VbJrnVGYYjPo6nJ28It is kind of hard to see, but the bottom edge of three of the lifters were chipping off. He was getting ready to give it an oil change and had pulled the side covers off to see how things looked and check for anything that may be wrong. It is a good thing he did!So to make a long story shorter, what happened again ties back to professionals not doing their job right, and us not knowing any better at the time. Very very frustrating.So go back 4 years or so, back to when we had initially broke down the engine and brought the parts to the machine shop to be re machined. They were to bore out the original sleeves to accept the new(old) 5" pistons, and assemble the rotating assembly of the block. All the bearings, etc... the short block as they say, and we would take it from there.Which is what happened.Back when we brought it to them we asked what should be done with the cam and lifters. They told us they would POLISH the cam and RESURFACE the lifters and we would be good to go. We said OK, that sounds good, as we didn't know any better and trusted them that they knew what they were talking about.Well it turns out that was a HUGE mistake. Everyone I talk to now says you always grind a cam and the lifters to match on this kind of a rebuild. If it was a running engine and just doing a freshening up might be a different story. But the machine shop knew this was not the case.So what was happening is the cam is BADLY worn (unbeknownst to us) and putting all the strain on the edge of the lifters, and possibly with failing lifters due to quality issues of the lifters themselves, everything started chipping.So we did bring it to Hutch, but only ran it minimally with magnets in the pan and did not run it on the belt pulley dyno like originally we were planning to do. It was still worth the trip, as a previous owner got to see the tractor run, and he had never seen it run before, as it was a project way back when he got it! He dang near teared up when it started up. And on two quarter turns like it should, so that made us look really good. Getting to show him really made us happy, and like I said, made all the effort worth while!https://photos.app.goo.gl/v7gSWnasrHoscHZ38https://photos.app.goo.gl/vAZWwbqu68p9WaKh9https://photos.app.goo.gl/agFKWJ3hJnPJDjx66https://photos.app.goo.gl/xseEuGRXwSSX4KBb6The good news is I got two umbrellas at the swap meet at Hutch, plan is to take the AC canvas and put it on the other stand, and with some repair and fab up a new holder have a nice vintage shade maker for the 20-35!https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZGLUDbVrMmwmUGnT9More bad news, we went to start it up for a friend Saturday afternoon, and it wouldn't start as the mag impulse quit working intermittently. It had never missed a click up until this point. So we got it running luckily, loaded it up on the trailer and pulled the mag off and gave it to my mag guy which happened to be at the show. He took it home and fixed it, and I just heard back today that it is ready to go again!So we limped it home from Hutch and got it rolled into the garage in the rain of course. The day before I had to go back to ND we tore the tractor back down to have the cam and lifters reworked. Went smoothly, as we knew how everything goes together by this point, LOL! Less than three hours we had it apart. https://photos.app.goo.gl/GNREtz2juX4MjqpA7https://photos.app.goo.gl/tA31PRkDESuPyxTG8https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZuazaoqeZ7nr4q5f8https://photos.app.goo.gl/iQeUm2vZfR7gjLsa6https://photos.app.goo.gl/quCXdXC5bkv1b7iNAAnd as long as things are open and apart, I snapped a pic up to see if I could see any casting numbers in the pistons. I knew they were 5", but then people were asking what KIND of 5" were they? And I didn't know.https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y86aYguyQQP8KzpRAwell, now I do. They all have number 209643 cast into them, and looking that number up in the parts book tells me they are the 5.2 ratio Gas Allis Chalmers pistons. Because there were other manufacturers of pistons aftermarket, for example "DeLux".So once we got the cam out we took a good look at it, and boy was it worn bad! Can't believe the machine shop would have OK'd anything like this. Won't be going back to them again.So the folks delivered the cam and another set of used lifters to Berry Cam in Lester Prairie MN. They went and picked them up today so things can start to go back together now.The plan is to have it up and running for our local show Northern Aged Iron in Highbridge WI September 21, 22 2019.http://www.northernagediron.com/Where we can hopefully actually work it and see what it can do!If you have nothing going on that weekend, we would love to see you there!
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
