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Model C Rear Main Seal, etc.

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Les Kerf View Drop Down
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Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
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    Posted: 22 Jan 2022 at 8:35am
I recently split my 1949 Model C  to fix a massive rear main seal leak. I have not yet ordered any parts as I have several questions.

I do not wish to use the oil wick; what is the best way to plug the hole?

This tractor has a pilot bushing; in order to use a sealed pilot bearing it appears that the flywheel would require machining. Is there a suitable oilite bushing available for this application that would not require machining?

The clutch was working fine but I intend to renew it 'just because'. The current disc is an 8.5" solid type; I see there are both solid and spring-type discs available. Is there any reason to prefer one type over the other?

Thanks for the help Smile
 
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PaulB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2022 at 11:35am
Opinions may vary and there are a couple of options. I myself will never use one of those supposedly will fit CORK versions of the rear main seal. The felt seal will do a fairly decent job, however there will be some weep even when the felt is proper oiled before installation. Back in the day of NON-detergent oils, the crud would build up and help the felt retain the oil inside of the engine with the use of the spiral cut into the crankshaft.  If you wish to absolutely seal up the rear main. Get the retainer from a newer small D series engine and lip type seal and install a Speedi-Sleeve over the spiral groove.  While you're doing the rear main, you might as well do the same to the front main.
  As for removing the crank wick, I remove the wick and drive a piece of slightly tapered brass into the hole. The flywheel will not accept a ball bearing without machining and I doubt there is enough material to have a ball bearing pilot bearing. I have sometimes used a needle bearing for the pilot bearing, however the factory bronze bushing works just fine with a finger full of grease smeared in it before putting the tractor back together.
  The older solid 8-1/2" discs were designed to use alternating think and thin clutch disc segments to help smooth out engagement, with the theory that only half of the facing would contact upon initial engagement, nowadays just use the spring loaded center disc for smoother engagement.  I put solid discs in pullers and spring loaded centers in farm tractors. 
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Les Kerf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2022 at 8:55am
Originally posted by PaulB PaulB wrote:


...however the factory bronze bushing works just fine with a finger full of grease smeared in it before putting the tractor back together.
 
 ...  I put solid discs in pullers and spring loaded centers in farm tractors. 


Thank you Paul, that is exactly the information I needed Smile
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