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marvel schebler carb tsx 154 |
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peterh ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 07 Dec 2011 Location: Raleigh, NC Points: 315 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 07 Dec 2011 at 3:32pm |
Can anyone help me troubleshoot a minor gas leak issue with an MS TSX 154 carb? It is from my 1947 Model C. I took it apart last week, soaked it in Chem Dip, replaced all the needles and gaskets, but now it has a very slow leak around the gasket that joins the two main pieces together. I noticed the gasket overlaps it ever so slighlty in one place. I wasn't sure if that might be it. I also thought once I ran the engine a time or two it would become more "solidified" and all the pieces would bond again. maybe wishful thinking? any advice would be appreciated. thank you.
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John (C-IL) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Illinois Points: 1654 |
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I'd say that first you should reset your float level a little lower, there shouldn't be any gas at the gasket level.
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22822 |
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Reset you float level and set the drop also. Many people don't think about how far the float drops, but there is an adjustment for that. I have had floats drop too far and get caught on the sides of the bowl, causing the bowl to overfill and flood the tractor.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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peterh ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 07 Dec 2011 Location: Raleigh, NC Points: 315 |
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thank you both for your advice. It does seem that the float may be getting stuck slightly. You said to "set the drop." How would I do that exactly? thanks for the help.
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22822 |
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Put the float in position as if you were going to assemble the carb. Hold the top half up and let the float drop. Measure the distance from the gasket face. If that measurement is equal to or grater than the depth of the bowl, it can hang up. On the back side of the float is a little tang. That is what stops it from dropping further. Adjust the tang so the float stops dropping an 1/8 inch or so short of the bottom of the bowl. I don't know the proper settings, I just adjust it so it cannot reach the bottom or go far enough to contact the radius in the bottom of the bowl. Maybe some experts can jump in here if this doesn't explain it properly.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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peterh ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 07 Dec 2011 Location: Raleigh, NC Points: 315 |
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Ok, I will check that out this weekend. Thanks again for taking the time to provide me with your advice.
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Rickbillingsley ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 14 May 2021 Location: NC Points: 2 |
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I also have a MS TSX 154 but considering buying a zenith. Are zeniths better than the MS? Also, I need help on a miss, I rebuilt my old carburetor and replaced the points, cap, condenser, and tuned it up. Now I have a miss. Would the points make it miss?
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mdm1 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2671 |
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Never heard of adjusting the drop. Good info. Thanks from me!
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85814 |
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Rick, there is not a "good" or "bad" carb... Both work fine if they are clean and set right.
A carburetor normally does not give a "miss".... normally that is an electrical problem. Since it occured AFTER you installed the point, condenser and cap, that may be related. You need the wires to all SEAT properly into the cap. You need the point to be CLEAN on the face and have the proper clearance.. Some new condensers are known to be "bad" right out of the box... Normally they are GOOD or BAD... not momentary, but its possible..look at the new CAP and make sure there are no hairline cracks between the wire contacts.... Also a miss can be a bad spark plug, wire not seated properly on the plug, wire bare or bad insulation at one area and arcing thru the rubber to the engine block... etc..... You can also have a weak COIL.... but since it happened right after the UPDATE, i would look at those items, and what you moved during installation. If all else fails, change the CAP back to original and see if the problem goes away... Then change the condenser and test... etc.
Edited by steve(ill) - 21 Dec 2021 at 1:09pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11926 |
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If you just put a rebuild kit in the Carburetor, on occasions, the needle may have a little tiny burr on the brass part of the needle. Sometimes a little 0000 steel wool (super fine) will polish up that brass area, and keep the needle from hanging up in the seat bore. It doesn't take much to hang that needle up. I do that automatically with every rebuild I do on customer Carburetors. Zenith or M/S. HTH As far as the miss is concerned, if you used Champion Spark Plugs, take them out, throw em' away and put a real set Spark Plugs in it like NGK's or Autolites. I've talked to so many customer's with "miss" issues, and it winds up being them Chimpanze Spark Plugs causing the issues. Quick plug change. Miss gone! Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Alberta Phil ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3882 |
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Check your plug wires for correct firing order. 1,2,4,3. One out of place will seem like a miss.
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