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Lovejoy style coupling,,,??? |
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desertjoe
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Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Location: New mexico Points: 13769 |
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Posted: 15 Mar 2016 at 5:55pm |
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Hey Joe in Manty,,,gosh,,yheys a lot of Joes on here,,,but thas good,,,I think Ole Fred in Pa has the hub and the 13" shaft. I'll PM you. |
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Joe in Manty
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Joined: 08 Apr 2014 Location: Manitowoc, WI Points: 48 |
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Posted: 14 Mar 2016 at 10:32pm |
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Joe, I've been following this post to see what you are doing and what will work for me. My D15 has the loader running off the tractor's hydraulics. I've looked at Surplus Center, Baum Hydraulics, and others to find the parts I'll need to convert it over to live hydraulics. I am leaning towards a double chain coupler over the lovejoy for more reliability. I've also read the postings about the splined coupling on the crankshaft pulley.
All good information as others are going through the process as well.
Joe
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DWC17
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Joined: 05 Aug 2010 Location: N.W.Ohio Points: 55 |
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Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 6:27pm |
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I think it is a 3/4" shaft.
Dan |
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DWC17
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Joined: 05 Aug 2010 Location: N.W.Ohio Points: 55 |
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Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 6:24pm |
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Anderson Tractor in Bluffton, Ohio.
Dan |
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Dan73
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6061 |
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Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 10:00am |
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Joe at the time I set up my systems I debated adding a pullie driven hydraulic pump to the d17 from the perspective that without the loader on the tractor it wouldn't be sticking out the front. I decided I wanted both tractors the same so I dropped the idea but I still think a pump mounted line an alternator would look nicer.
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Dan73
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6061 |
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Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 9:49am |
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Joe mine had the 1 inch shaft new. I wanted to go that route myself but I wasn't about to pay the $1000 I was quoted by my now out of business then agco dealer. Can't guess why that dealer closed a few years back.
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desertjoe
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Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Location: New mexico Points: 13769 |
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Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 9:46am |
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Yeah Dan,,,I got that all wrote down and may have to go same route you went,,but still lookin for a set up with the 1" shaft. Most everybody has the set-up with the 3/4" shaft. I guess my set-up must of been the only'ist one they built with the 1" shaft,,,PFFffft,,!! Hey DWC17 where did you get the set-up you installed on yours and is it a 1" shaft,?? |
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Dan73
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6061 |
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Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 9:36am |
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Joe scroll up and follow the links in my posting above it will take you to the 3 parts I bought. But the shaft was too short.
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desertjoe
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Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Location: New mexico Points: 13769 |
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Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 9:26am |
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Hey Dan,,Do you remember where you got the drive shaft and the hub for your loader,,?? |
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DWC17
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Joined: 05 Aug 2010 Location: N.W.Ohio Points: 55 |
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Posted: 02 Feb 2016 at 5:58pm |
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I'm using a pump off of a F gleaner combine for my loader. I don't have a lot of hrs. on the set up (maybe 150 hrs.), but it works just fine.
Dan |
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Dan73
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6061 |
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Posted: 02 Feb 2016 at 5:35pm |
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I bought the pump from surplus center. The bracket I had made by a local shop I am sure if you called a salvage yard they would have one off an individual loader tractor.
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jeickman
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Joined: 19 Jan 2016 Location: Madison MS Points: 20 |
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Posted: 02 Feb 2016 at 5:32pm |
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What about sources for the pump mounting bracket and pump for a D17 Series III?
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Fred in Pa
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Hanover Pa. Points: 9210 |
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 6:24am |
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Edited by Fred in Pa - 15 Mar 2016 at 7:03am |
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He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead. If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED. |
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Gary
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Peterborough,On Points: 5911 |
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 5:33am |
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Hey Joe Steiner also has the 13" Shaft Their P/N is 1820 $30.75 Gary http://www.steinertractor.com/ABC1820-front-hydraulic-pump-drive-shaft |
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Play Farmer
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Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732 |
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Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 5:23am |
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Take a look at a TB Woods Duraflex coupling. I don't have the chart in front of me but will have later today. They take a fair amount of movement and are very easy to install.
If you need any help sizing any coupling feel free to ask, part of my real job is selling them. |
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Dan73
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6061 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 11:50pm |
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Joe my train of thought is that the motor vibration related to the counter weight is measurable and the splines provide a place for that to be taken out so the front seal on the pump doesn't take the abuse. On my pump it is just a press in seal with a snap ring to hold it in place nuts like all the other shaft seals you see all over these old tractors. I am just guessing but it looked to me like you need the splines. Oh and check out your sprocket set before you reassemble mine was worn to little tiny points and needed to be replaced anyway.
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desertjoe
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Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Location: New mexico Points: 13769 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 11:13pm |
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Hey Dan,,,well that's an idea bout mating the sprocket/shaft end to this new 3/4" shaft/hub and I had NOT measured for a possible solid coupling yet but do know there ain't a heck of a lot of extra room there,,,, I don't know what kind of sealing assy there is on the pump but if it is a mechanical seal, there shouldn't be any end play movement or the faces separate and the pumpage will leak and prolly ruin the seal. I might be wrong,,but I really think the reason the Mfgrs used this type of coupling arrangement for these pumps is so that either the pump/shaft/hub/ could be replaced with out having to remove engine.,,,,????? Dang,,why do these simple things got to be so complicated,,,??????
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Dan73
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6061 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 10:42pm |
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Oh one other post I just remembered there is not enough room between the shaft and the counter weight and radiator to add a rigid coupler with set screws I tried that to while I was working on mine couldn't figure out how to make it fit.
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Dan73
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 10:39pm |
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I think if you don't allow the coupling to slide towards the motor a little with the spline shaft you will wipe out the front seal in the pump. I know my old shaft showed ware that pointed out it was sliding in and out over time I am assuming this is important to protect the pump.
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Dan73
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6061 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 10:36pm |
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Joe why not buy the shaft setup I showed and then when you have it extended just weld on the end you need to match you current double roller chain? It was the only option I could find about 3 years ago. And yes the same setup from crank pullie out with different lengths of the shaft are on my d15 with a 160 engine and the d17 with a 226 not sure if the 149 is the same or not.
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desertjoe
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Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Location: New mexico Points: 13769 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 10:29pm |
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DANG,,,lots of great info ,,,,The shaft on this tractor is 1",,,13" long with a 1/4" keyway and a sprocket at pump end. The crankshaft end is a 4 bolt hub that is 4" OD and bolt spacing at 2 3/4" with 3/8" bolts (7/16" bore),,,and according to one of the Guys is same as a D17,,,??? If I switch to the 3/4" shaft,,I will have to buy the hub, shaft and a new 3/4" sprocket,and prolly the dang chain as well!!!,,,,may have to but I'm still lookin,,,,,, In lookin at the Baum Industrial catalog that Brian mentioned,, there is a weld-on spline bore,,,but the OD is too big and would get into the bolt holes of the hub,,,,CHIT,,,,,there is also a square bore weld-on that might be promising but I could not find the chart that listed the dimensions,,,,, I'm also thinkin,,, and let me throw this out there for the GURUs,,,,,How bout I machine out the splines in the hub and make a short "stub shaft" with 4 flats and weld this into the hub,,,,,then,,,machine 4 flats on the shaft,,,and make a rigid coupler bout 4" long with 4 allens at each end,,,,??? TEN FOUR,,,???? Keep bringin in these ideas and I'll leave Ya'll alone,,,,,,,,,yeah right,,,!!!
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Orange Tractors
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Butler, MO Points: 172 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 10:01pm |
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The trick to machining rubber is to freeze it first, then be quick. I learned this putting recoil pads on rifle stocks.
Robert |
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truckerfarmer
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Joined: 26 Jan 2013 Location: Watertown, SD Points: 3312 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 9:55pm |
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Back in the '90s I ran a feed mill on a turkey farm. The feed grinder had a 30hp 3 phase motor with a Lovejoy coupler. As I recall, only replaced the rubber once in 2 yrs. Just gotta get the right size for the HP.
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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it! |
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Brian G. NY
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2278 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 1:40pm |
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Like this one.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-NAA-600-601-800-801-900-2000-6-SPLINE-HYDRAULIC-DRIVE-HUB-ADAPTER-54C2055-/151916236975?hash=item235ee9d0af:g:SLUAAOxyUrZSt0Iq
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Brian G. NY
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2278 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 1:19pm |
![]() I bought the 13" X 3/4" shaft which had 6 splines on one end and a keyway on the other along with the crankshaft adapter from e-bay about 3 years ago for my D-17.The holes are 7/16" and the spacing is 2-3/4" which is a direct bolt-on to the D-17 crankshaft pulley. Both items together cost me $66.04 including S & H.
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Gerald J.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 12:36pm |
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Spline shafting is a pain to make in the machine shop. Spline couplers are a much more difficult task. Section S of the Baum Hydraulics catalog has a selection of splined shafts and couplers in PTO and other sizes. They don't seem to have flanged spline couplers but they do have splined weld a hubs that could be welded into a sprocket with holes added for bolting to the engine pulley. I think I found a hub that bolted to the pulley on my MF-135 with Continental engine long ago when I switched the loader from a PTO pump to a front mounted pump.
Gerald J. Edited by Gerald J. - 31 Jan 2016 at 10:03pm |
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Dan73
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6061 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 12:34pm |
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crank pullie
front pump drive hub shaft That is the set you want but the shaft is too short. It was cheaper for me to buy the short shaft and have it extended don't know why but no one I talked to a few years wanted to cut the splines. |
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Gary
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Peterborough,On Points: 5911 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 12:06pm |
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Is this what you are looking for ? I have these links saved in my 'favourites' Gary ........................................ Hub: http://www.steinertractor.com/ABC1809-front-hydraulic-pump-drive-hub-adapter ............................................. Shaft http://www.steinertractor.com/ABC1814-front-hydraulic-pump-drive-shaft?&TF=8EF74A6D4D48 |
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AaronSEIA
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mt Pleasant, IA Points: 2584 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 11:24am |
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I looked at a Lovejoy when setting up the front pump on my D17. Didn't have enough room for it after I had the pump mounts made. A double chain coupler is just as good and takes up a lot less space.
AaronSEIA |
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Dan73
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6061 |
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Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 11:21am |
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Joe when you call stiners ask if you can get Rachel to make a video with you on hooking up a front mounted hydraulic pump on a d serries tractor it would be really helpful as this doesn't seem straight forward.....
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