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Looking for advice WD Governor

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snowman(MI) View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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    Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 6:17am
Question regarding governors on a WD.  While using the tractor and throttle as I slowly add more throttle, I can move the throttle lever slow for about the first 2/3 of the quadrant, and then all of the sudden I get the reaction of increased throttle all to once.  Don't know if something came loose or is sticking.  Removed the very front cover but can't see much without removing the hood, nose cone and radiator which might be Saturday's project.  Tractor runs OK otherwise but is somewhat of a nuisance when you are trying to regulate your speed.  Just looking for some advice as to what to look for.  Trying to fix before taking this on the ride at the GOTO next week.

snowman(MI) 
1950 WD, 1966 D-10 III, 1961 D-10 II, 1966 D-15 II Gas, A-C Minibike, 917 Hydro Mower, 917 Hydro Blower w/cab, West Michigan "Allis Express"
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PaulB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 6:19am
Make the proper adjustment on the cross arm.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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snowman(MI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowman(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 7:16am
Could you explain in greater detail, or is this something that is referenced in any of the service manuals??
1950 WD, 1966 D-10 III, 1961 D-10 II, 1966 D-15 II Gas, A-C Minibike, 917 Hydro Mower, 917 Hydro Blower w/cab, West Michigan "Allis Express"
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 7:18am
snowman,
I have seen several where the rod ends and pivot points get very worn and sloppy. These can be repaired by welding/ grinding or replaced. The vertical governor arm and the rod going to the carb can be adjusted by bending to get the correct distance. I have had to do that on several WD series tractors. The length of that rod  to the carb usually had to be shortened on the ones I have done. I put a "s" bend in it. I would have to look up the procedure for adjustment. Try search feature. 
If your governor weights are actually bad (worn out) then more dissassembly is required.
Those do go bad. I found the remnents of the weights lodged in the front cover on one WD.
You will be satisfied that you took the time to fix it. They have very responsive governors and run well when all the things are correct.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 7:22am
Shorten link between carburetor and governor arm by bending it down until it works right.       MACK
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 8:31am
Sounds to me like the throttle plate is sticking inside the carb throat when idled down and it takes more throttle lever movement to get it to unstick. If the carb has been recently worked on, the throttle plate didn't get centered properly causing this. Also make sure the cotter pin at the carb is cut short and wrapped tightly so it can't hang out and cause a binding of the governor link rod. The governor link rod need to be installed correctly and not bass-ackwards. On the carb end the cotter pin is away from the engine block.
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snowman(MI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowman(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 8:33pm
Dr. you may have what it was, I pulled the carb and in moving the butterfly throttle it did tend to bind, wanting to stick a bit.  I loosened up the two screws a bit, activated the throttle shaft and retighten the screws.  Battery needed a charge or I could have tried it out this evening.  First thing on the Saturday things to do in the morning is fire the old girl up.  I have hopes this was the problem as about a year ago I did send the carb out for a rebuild and haven't run the tractor much since then.  Will let you know how things turn out tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice!

Don Snow
1950 WD, 1966 D-10 III, 1961 D-10 II, 1966 D-15 II Gas, A-C Minibike, 917 Hydro Mower, 917 Hydro Blower w/cab, West Michigan "Allis Express"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 8:47pm
Hope that takes care of it. Proper centering of the throttle plate is done with the idle speed screw backed out all the way and forcing the throttle shaft closed with the two butterfly screws loose and then tighten them.  Return idle speed screw to where it way. I normally count turns out and just tighten the same number of turns.
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snowman(MI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowman(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2019 at 5:54am
Dr. Allis, #1 I need to apologize for not getting back with you on how this turned out.  You were spot on with the throttle plate wanting to stick.  This took care of the problem and saved me from going after something in the governor as a light came on in my head that I had sent this carb out for a rebuild two years ago and hadn't run the tractor much since then.  Thank you for all the responses and looking forward to attending the GOTO later this week.

snowman(MI)
1950 WD, 1966 D-10 III, 1961 D-10 II, 1966 D-15 II Gas, A-C Minibike, 917 Hydro Mower, 917 Hydro Blower w/cab, West Michigan "Allis Express"
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