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Long sitting Allis |
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soundman502 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Aug 2011 Location: Spencer, IN Points: 23 |
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I'll take the good camera with me next time and get some shots of the other equipment. There's also a disc out there that I may be able to grab as well. We'll see. I love old equipment as well. I was happy at the thought of getting a WD45, but getting this '45 WC tops that just a bit. It will look nice next to the '79 Bronco in the driveway :)
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DaveKamp ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 6077 |
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That is definately a '45 WC... 4spd transmission (shifter WILL be 'floppy', so you'll guess-your-gear, but hey- it's fun!)... there's a straight rod that points up at the family jewels, that's called a DRIVELINE DISCONNECT... that does just what it says- disconnects the rear axle just after the mechanical lift... so you can stop the tractor, flip the disconnect lever, release the clutch, and the mechanical lift will operate without the tractor having to move. Make sure it's in the disconnect position (I think that's DOWN) before you pull, so one less thing to worry about holdin' 'ya back.
The brakes are hand-levers, make sure they're not locked on and held with the parking-brake cams... and make sure the lever IS in NEUTRAL... gonna be tricky to feel it, I'm betting. Sheetmetal looks to be in very good shape- won't take much to make that pretty... but I think you're gonna wanna pop that motor out and drop in a known-good-runner. It'll give you opportunity to 'work on' the clutch, too, as well as hand-spin the transmission shaft and make sure there's no serious problems there. While you have the engine out, it's an excellent time to clean up the bearing surfaces of the steering, blast the crud out of the insides of the frame rails, and if the tranny needs TLC, it's right there. But you CAN set this on WC steel (without the cleats on, of course) and it'll be easy to work on. Those rear rims might be good enough to blast, paint, and re-use. If the valve-stem holes are all rotted, but the metal is thick enough, grind the holes back 'till there's good metal, cut little disks and MIG'em into the holes, then polish it all smooth with a flapper-wheel, and drill new holes in another place on the rim. Git'r pulled out... stop at the car-wash, hose it down with degreaser, then blast as much crud off as you can, then roll it into the shop, where you can get a cherry-picker rolled under. Be gentle with the shroud, radiator, fuel tank, and tinwork, move it to safe storage location, then pull the carb, voltage regulator, generator, and put 'em in boxes for later. rig and lift the engine out, set it aside for now, then block up the rear axle and give the transmission and final drive an assessment. |
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Dusty MI ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Charlotte, Mi Points: 5059 |
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It's had some up-dates, After market seat, battery ignition, voltage regulator. Plus what Dave Kemp talked about. And like he said try to get the transmission in neutral or the drive line disconnect. It could be the reason it didn't want to move is because it is in gear and the engine is stuck.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Orange Blood ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053 |
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To answer your question.
If you have the piece of the block that broke out, it is fixable, if you have a really good welding shop around. However as cheap as these blocks are, and as easy to find as they are, I would go get another one, as mentioned before.
As for running her with the hole, it can be done for around a minute is all no load, until she cools back down again, but yes it can be run without water for a very short time
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
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Sandknob ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oblong, IL Points: 2456 |
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Scott,
I have a WC tire and rim that you can have. It has a little rust around the valve stem, and the tire is an older recap, but I have no use for it. I would like the fluid out of it though. Tire shop said $25 to pump the fluid into another tire.
Let me know if your interested.
Located in Oblong, Illinois
Adam
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soundman502 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Aug 2011 Location: Spencer, IN Points: 23 |
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Sandknob, I am interested, though it could be a bit before I could come after it. Thanks for the offer!
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soundman502 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Aug 2011 Location: Spencer, IN Points: 23 |
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Well guys, I hate to do this, but apparently my plans are on hold for a while. Leave it to family squabbling to screw up perfectly good plans. Perhaps I can located another AC soon and just restore it. Thank you all for your help and wisdom, it won't go unused.
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DaveKamp ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 6077 |
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Hmm... sounds like someone in the family thinks it's worth big, big money, and has no realistic understanding of what it will deteriorate into.
Don't worry- they're around... we'll find 'ya something. |
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TedBuiskerN.IL. ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Davis, IL. Points: 1959 |
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Most 1945 WC's I've seen have the steel rear end housing, I think the cast ones are unusual.
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Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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