L3 Overheating

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   Our L3 usually doesn't overheat badly, but when we're cutting, the temp needle usually sits right on the line between green and red, or just a hair under. Every once and a while it will dip into the red, but when I go unload and throttle the engine down for a bit, it will cool off and go into the green again, until I engage the separator and throttle up. Then after a little bit it gets hot again. Should I be concerned? What's a good remedy? Radiator doesn't get plugged up, and I blow it out every day to make sure it doesn't plug up. A friend has two M2's and a green stripe L3, and none of them run as hot as our L3. He doesn't even blow them out every day. Maybe once a season. 
Thanks

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CrestonM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8457	Post Options Post Reply Quote CrestonM Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: L3 Overheating Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 12:26pm
	Our L3 usually doesn't overheat badly, but when we're cutting, the temp needle usually sits right on the line between green and red, or just a hair under. Every once and a while it will dip into the red, but when I go unload and throttle the engine down for a bit, it will cool off and go into the green again, until I engage the separator and throttle up. Then after a little bit it gets hot again. Should I be concerned? What's a good remedy? Radiator doesn't get plugged up, and I blow it out every day to make sure it doesn't plug up. A friend has two M2's and a green stripe L3, and none of them run as hot as our L3. He doesn't even blow them out every day. Maybe once a season. Thanks

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farmboy520 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 22 Jun 2016 Location: Beason, IL Points: 553	Post Options Post Reply Quote farmboy520 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 1:39pm
	You might want to try changing the temp sender on the motor to see if that has any affect or take reading some how of the temp when it is that warm

Mike Kroupa Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 02 Oct 2009 Location: pierce, ne Points: 337	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mike Kroupa Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 2:49pm
	You radiator cores might be starting to corrode and are restricting the flow somewhat, causing it to run warm. If it was mine I'd pull it and have it gone through, then you know what you have. Easy removal compared to R-76. It would appear that your temp. sender and gauge are ok. Also when you are there check the waterpump pulley for excessive wear. Newest style pulley is cast verses the stamped steel one. If you guys have another wheat crop like last year you will be glad you cleaned it! Good Luck, Mike

tbran Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3539	Post Options Post Reply Quote tbran Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 4:09pm
	I would say even though you think the radiator is clean, it is partially plugged around the edges. Remove, swing away the rotary screen and see if you can see thru every flu. Late model had a lot wider flu spacing than did earlier models. A problem other than this , the temp would go over into the red. You have just enough thermal rejection capability to get by with. A partially plugged radiator will do just as yours, cool down while unloading..
	When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..

fastallis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 13 Nov 2010 Location: Avilla indiana Points: 172	Post Options Post Reply Quote fastallis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 4:30pm
	My L3 began doing the same thing this fall 3/4 of the way through bean harvest. I pressure washed the radiator really good. The gauge stayed right in the middle for 3 hoppers full of beans then began creepping up on the gauge again. The beans were very dusty this fall. I need to clean the radiator out really well before next harvest.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22080	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 4:54pm
	Think of a radiator as a bass-ackwards furnace. It takes so many BTU's of heat rejection to keep the engine cool enough. Any part of the radiators core that is blocked/plugged(internally or externally) will start to overheat on warm days, and if you have a day that is 20 degrees cooler, it will also tend to run cooler.

jiminnd Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Rutland ND Points: 2307	Post Options Post Reply Quote jiminnd Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 5:15pm
	Like said, check the pulleys, had to replace the ones on my M2 and that fixed it.
	1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner)

MACK Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664	Post Options Post Reply Quote MACK Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 9:20pm
	My F2 would do same thing. Belt was running to bottom of water pump pulley. Replaced pulley, no more problems. MACK

groundhog55 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 26 Apr 2011 Location: nw in Points: 217	Post Options Post Reply Quote groundhog55 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 11:47am
	Check the thermostat it could be broke. Have had that happen on a cat engine.

Ray54 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Paso Robles, Ca Points: 4759	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ray54 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 3:22pm
	Have been around a number of MH's from a 75 to 83 year models and lots of 100+ degree days. Always cleaned the core every day,all had Murphy auto shut down switches on oil,and water. Some D3500 and D2900 engines, the 2900's had water pump that can loose bearing with no warning the reason all got the Murphy's. The rubber weather striping is very important in keeping the core clean. But considering the age if you have not put a new radiator or a core in the old tanks it is time to have the inside cleaned out. You can do some good with acid products you put in yourself or pull it and have a radiator shop do it. If there is any amount of lime in your water it probably would benefit from a rodding out,taking the radiator apart and using a rod or flat bar to remove the build up lime and other scale in each tube. With the soldered tank you need a professional unless you want to learn to solder like a professional. So with the price of labor to day may mean a new radiator is the way to go.(One reason I love old Caterpillars,cast iron tanks bolted together to core. Can take them apart and rod myself.) Also if you us the acid treatment don't be shocked if the tubes are getting thin and it starts leaking after all the old scale has been removed that had kept it from leaking before(the old opening a can of worms). If you get into a new radiators or cores make sure the tube spacing is as wide as the old ones. The common cores used with trucks are narrower and will plug MUCH FASTER with chaff. Been there done that,DON"T DO IT. Yes it will cost more,but compare to cleaning radiator more than once a day. Start with the cheap stuff and pull rotary screen and make sure you can see thru all the core. Then one of the milder acid flushes from the parts store,remember how big the system is and use a appropriate amount. Nothing like cutting on a hot day,in a cool cab when everything is working. Thing sucks like breaking down on a hot day and working on the machine when everything you touch is to hot to touch. Good luck with your harvest. Edited by Ray54 - 20 Jan 2017 at 3:29pm

TREVMAN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Regina,Sask,Can Points: 1635	Post Options Post Reply Quote TREVMAN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 8:43pm
	My buddy called me in the fall, he was not a happy camper. He has two 2188 cih units one a 94, one a 95 with about 3000 hours each. Both starting to want to heat, not a crisis but needing attention. Blown out with lots of pressure/volume as part of regular maintenance. Upon very close inspection, each "slot" or "fin" or whatever the proper term is, in the rad, had "dirt" in it. None were blocked. The only way he could clean the rads out was mechanically, using large zip ties. The ribs on the zip ties were deep enough to remove the dust/dirt which was quite hard, but the plastic did not damage the fins. I forget how many individual slots he flossed clean in the two rads, but it was in the thousands. First the tops, then the bottoms. Took about 4 days, he had very sore hands when done. But, he reports those 505's have not run as cool in at least 15 years. Maybe something to look at, hope this helps, Trev.

victoryallis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 15 Apr 2010 Location: Ludington mi Points: 2878	Post Options Post Reply Quote victoryallis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Jan 2017 at 12:03am
	My 8030 had overheating issues radiator looked clean got to the point I had to do something so I pulled it and carefully pressure washed it. Ends up it was much dirtier than I thought. Had no issues keeping it cool after that.
	8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760

Amos Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario Points: 1318	Post Options Post Reply Quote Amos Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Jan 2017 at 4:27am
	Had a similar problem with my 4W305 transmission cooler. Blew air from blow gun on it very little came out. Still ran warmer than I liked it to run. Took the cooler out and straightened out the bent fins (this in itself took two of us about 3 hours). the decided I would blat t with the blow gun. When I was finished with the blow I gun I swept up and filled one 5 gallon pail and half of another one with what came out of that cooler. It is amazing how much can get packed into the rads and coolers if you do not take enough time to clean them completely each and every time you blow them out. It is like Trevman says, it can pack in where the blow gun just won't get too it, especially if a little oil gets into it. Sometimes you can clean them with a hot water pressure washer, but it can also blow holes right into a not before leaking rad even when you are being careful../

fastallis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 13 Nov 2010 Location: Avilla indiana Points: 172	Post Options Post Reply Quote fastallis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Sep 2017 at 7:23pm
	I pressure washed my radiator out with water form the hot water heater it is set at 125degrees for about an hour today. Wow I got alot of stuff out of it. I also replaced the water pump pulley. It was very worn. I took some pictures of thme so you can see the wear. I will see if I remember how to post pictures.