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Just bought a 6140, I think...

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TimCNY View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 Jul 2015 at 1:22pm
At least that's what it's supposed to be. The seller bought it from his friend, the tractor used to belong to his friend's father, the father died, family sold everything. Before the father died, the sons used the tractor for plowing the driveway. The snowplow they put on it wouldn't allow the hood to swing forward to open, so they removed the hood and used it that way. When it came time to sell, no one could recall what happened to that hood, so the buyer (seller to me) made a pretty much dead-on replica of the hood. But, just remove the two bolts acting as hinge pins and remove the hood; however, it's heavy and not a practical matter.

The tractor runs and drives fine, I have a list of things that need fixing and a list of things that would be nice to put back together properly but aren't a problem now. For what I paid, including having it delivered to farm 87 miles away, I felt really guilty. But I'm pretty well over it already. :D Went out yesterday afternoon, by 6:15 it was at the farm and being groomed and inspected like a mountain gorilla.

First off, the reason I say "I think" I bought a 6140 is because I only have the seller's word and a few old phone photos on his phone to go by. According to Tractordata the serial number is supposed to be on the left side of the fuel tank - but, nothing's there.

My first order of business is to get a manual (no one seemed to remember where that was, either), but - for a 6140, or -- ? Anyways, I have to get some photos to post and then maybe someone can chime in on what to look for, etc.

As for the lift arm balls, they're missing. Along with the retainers. Suggestions? Thank you!

- Tim
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DiyDave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2015 at 6:19pm
I don't remember for sure, But I think they were compatible with E series Hinmoto tractors.  (Some parts interchange...)  you might try the tractorbynet forums, they have a page for each imported tractor...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unit3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2015 at 6:40pm
Congratulations! Question on them. Who built them for Allis?
2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2015 at 10:31pm
Made in Japan by Hinimoto I believe.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2015 at 11:33pm
Tractordata says manufactured by Allis Chalmers, engine by Toyosha, and on more than one casting I saw "TOYODA" - does that mean it's Yoda's Toy in Yoda-speak??? OK sorry about that one. :) But the castings do read TOYODA. Not Toyosha, not Toyota. Toyoda. Things that make you go "hmmmm..."

Not much data that I can find. Massey Ferguson had a model of the same number and that's what clogs the searches I've tried.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2015 at 12:15am
OK, I'm pretty much convinced that it's a 6140. I've found enough stuff online that corroborates what I've seen on the tractor. Manual will be ordered asap. I'll get photos posted, and I'll have a lot of questions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2015 at 4:56am
Massey equivalent was the 10 series, 1010 1020 1030
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2015 at 8:50am
Well maybe I didn't word that right, I thought I did but here goes the correction: Yes, I know the Massey 6140 is nowhere NEAR the equivalent of the Allis Chalmers 6140, I was pointing out that whenever, each and every time, I do any kind of a search for "ALLIS 6140," the results are cluttered up with the far more popular (and eminently LARGER) "MASSEY FERGUSON 6140." I didn't think I at all implied that the two were related. Sorry for that confusion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 9:17pm
DiyDave, thanks for the Massey equivalent reference, I've seen those models as well as the 1040 and 1045 models referred to as "equivalents" too, but they're all different engine sizes/HP ranging from 0.9L/16HP to 2.0L/35HP. But, the Allis 6140 is a 2.3L/45 (or 47, or 50HP depending on which charts you're looking at). It's confusing to me sometimes. Thanks again for that.

I got the Operator's Manual for it, it shows the serial number on the stamped plate located on the clutch housing, I found it and it's a 1982, and it's after the change from Cat I to Cat II 3-point hitch.

The only issues that it has:

1. The PTO clutch cable is missing. It LOOKS like I can get away with a heavy throttle or choke cable and route it properly, can someone confirm that? I can't find any kind of replacement online.

2. The Differential Lock Pedal... um, there is NOTHING, not a single word, in the Manual about it other than an illustration with a caption for it. It was/is in the upper (I presume disengaged) position, it took a LOT of force to move it down and then I had to use a prybar to move it back up. Inside, it seemed to be fine, just the external surface seemed to be the problem. I have no idea about it other than my guesses. It actually seems like there should be a (HEAVY! lol) spring to keep it in the up position unless depressed by my foot, I can't imagine having to reach down and pull it up every time it's no longer needed.

3. The biggie, maybe: The Draft Control Rod Assembly/Overtravel Spring... I can take pics, but - in a nutshell, the end that connects to the tab attached to the 3-point hitch toplink attachment (assembly?) is broken off, and the other end that goes into the lift arm tower is just loose, the rod that goes into the housing can slide a little in and out. I'm not sure how to describe it other than that. maybe photos will clear it up. I'm not sure how big a deal it is to lose draft control...???

4. Missing hitch balls... it was supposed to come with two sets, one for Cat I and one for Cat II to interchange, but of course they're long gone along with the original hood. I can't find anything online anywhere for replacements. I'm thinking I'll have to get either weld-on's or weld-on repair ends. Any thoughts on a better way?

Also, as for fluids:

- I know it states to use a diesel engine oil, straight 30 weight, all-caps "DO NOT use multi-viscosity oils" in it. I plan on following that unless there's a reason not to.

- For the Transmission & Hydraulic (and, given that is takes 42.3 quarts, I presume the differential as well?), it says to use Allis-Chalmers Power Fluid 821, what are other equivalents for this? Anything generic, or should I try to find a dealer if this brand is still available? The same is also recommended for the power steering.

I know, maybe too many questions. I'm really hoping you guys can help.

Thanks for putting up with my whining and frustration!
- Tim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EricPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 9:23pm
Tractor supply has fluid labeled for 821
Life is tough,but it's tougher when you're stupid. - John Wayne
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 9:25pm
Oops, I forgot - the lights... I don't know how much wiring is still there. The headlights disappeared with the hood. But, the back lights are missing too. Recommended replacements & sources?

Thanks again!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 9:27pm
OK, thanks EricPA. I haven't checked out anything other than the tractor so far lol, the manual came in yesterday's mail and due to baby showers, high school reunion (40th?!?!?! NOT POSSIBLE!!!), etc., I didn't get the mail until late last night. And it wasn't until this evening that I got up to look at the things on the tractor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 9:38pm
Tim, take a look at similar HP kubotas, they have a similar draft linkage, as you describe.  You might be able to bodge something up out of one of them.  As to the PTo Linkage, search vernier control cables, I used one I got from Granger's for a throttle cable to replace a bogus linkage that my grey market Kubota had and failed.  Cost me all of about $11.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 10:20pm
Terrific, that sounds great. I hope I can get it to work. It's otherwise a great running little tractor. Thanks, Dave!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ross D. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2015 at 9:37am
Good morning.    May we see some pictures of this tractor?   Ross.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2015 at 10:35am
Just in for lunch, Ross, got to get back out. Hopefully I'll be up there later this afternoon and get some photos. Keep in mind that the original hood/lights could not be found, the seller fabricated this hood (did a nice enough job, too!), so there are no decals or anything of the sort to identify it. It is a 6140 for certain, the serial # makes it a 1982.

I'm going to also ask for help in getting proper (and CURRENT!) numbers for the air cleaner element, hydraulic return line filter element, oil filter, fuel filter, and hydraulic oil filter. This old girl needs all fluids and filters changed. I called NAPA, they were too busy to look it all up so they asked for my name/# so they can call me back later today, but I'm pretty sure I'll be calling them back again tomorrow. I figure you guys might be a lot faster than them.

Thank you,
- Tim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EricPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2015 at 11:45am
My NAPA numbers for the S126 engine are
Oil 1034
Fuel 3390
Donaldson air filter P181050
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2015 at 9:02am
Hi Eric, thanks - I got some numbers for the fuel, air, and engine oil filters. Hydraulic filters are elements and I'm not ready for opening the housings just yet.

Mostly, this is for any future people looking for information on a 6140; there's really very little out there for this orphan.

Oil:
AGCO 72118857 (on it when changed)
NAPA 1346 (what I used)
Baldwin BT353 (from online cross reference)
Fram PH2870A (ditto)
Wix 51346(ditto)

Fuel:
FIL 101 (from online cross reference)
Baldwin BF825 (ditto)
Fleetguard FF167 (ditto)
Wix 33166MP (ditto)
Fram P7512 (what's on there now, maybe the number changed)
Fram C1191A (from online cross reference)
NAPA - haven't checked yet.

Air:
Donaldson SMP18-1052 (what's on there now; followed by "APR 88C")
Baldwin PA2380-FN (from online cross reference)
NAPA - haven't checked yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2015 at 9:12am
For Ross:







You can see the broken draft control rod below the right lift shaft and on the right of side of the lift shaft housing:


What I meant about the lift arm balls/sockets:






The hour meter does work:


That's it for now! Thanks again for all help.
- Tim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2015 at 9:16am
GEEEZ LOUISE!!! Why are the pics so huge?!?!?! SORRY!!!

And yes, the tires are truck tires and have to be replaced, lol; the hood is, as I said, NOT original (homemade by the seller but not too bad, it swings open now that I took the plow frame off), and the muffler is not "right." Probably more modifications/additions/deletions that I'll find along the way, too. But it's a good machine for what I need.

And those are a crop of green beans for the late season here. It's hard to tell perspective but that front field is only a little more than 7-acres.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2015 at 9:19am
And yes, he painted it up... I really don't like when that's done, my opinion is that it's usually done to hide something. Kind of like putting lipstick on a pig. But meh, that'll do, pig...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2015 at 6:59pm
Today I found a dealer about 30 miles from me that carries Allis Chalmers parts. Unfortunately, the hitch balls for this model are obsolete (no, really?!?!), no longer available, and no match to any other model. So, I'll be getting some weld-on lift arm ends and get that done asap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtanut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jul 2015 at 7:01am
My uncle has a 4000 ford and if i remember right the hitch balls he takes out when not in use and puts them in tool box. you might be able to look into something like that
I have a 185 Allis, 6060 Allis, Model K gleaner, SMTA ferg 35, ferg 20 (paps first tractor, Allis B (wife's)John Deere 240 skid loader and a bunch of the usual farm stuff.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jul 2015 at 6:48pm
Right you are, mtanut, that's what I was trying to do but those are no longer available with this model. The replacement ends are cheap enough, and I have a machine shop that has already said they'd cut the old ends off and weld the new ones in for -- FREE! I like that.
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