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Injection Line Sealing Washers:

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Codger View Drop Down
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Joined: 23 Dec 2020
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    Posted: 13 May 2022 at 6:52am
On my 11B series tractor with a DC series Roosa-Master pump, I have a consistent line to pump connection leak on the #1 cylinder fuel pipe. There is no compromise to the fitting or it's mechanical connection to the line, banjo bolt, or threads in the hydraulic head I can see, but this damned thing refuses to not drip fuel. The pump is rebuilt and was put back on the engine with everything torqued proper according to specs. This leak is at the seal between the Banjo bolt head underside, and the injection line seal where the banjo bolt passes through to the hydraulic head. It does not leak where the seal between the line and hydraulic head compress together.

I've used two different types of seals which are Stanadyne parts and am ready to try the  copper variant this go round. The originals were steel, but it never leaked fuel prior to the pump being sent in for rebuild. I have looked closely at the area of the injection line where the banjo bolt sealing washers sandwich against, and cannot see anything that would preclude a seal. As a start, I'm going to install a new banjo bolt the pump shop has readily available. 

Regardless, this thing is either a "drip" of fuel, or a thin pencil stream spray and neither is tolerable. Wanting to bring the tractor home in the next couple of weeks and get to working with it.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2022 at 9:02am
We always used copper washers because the are SOFT and will squeeze a little.. Not steel.... One trick when the copper got HARD due to cold working them, was to heat them up with a torch and let them cool to anneal.... Not that you need that, but the idea was to make them SOFT.... and we would polish the banjo fitting and face flat by rubbing on a fine sandpaper on the table... if needed.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tad Wicks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2022 at 10:31am
Be very sure what ever you do, there has to be a washer top and bottom of the banjo, if not, the bolt will screw in to far and distort the the head and the rotor will seize and twist off the pump drive shaft.  Ask me how I know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2022 at 6:59pm
This was the first pump setup I'd seen the steel washers used in. I maintained standby generator sets for many years and they were always "dead soft" copper washers in the application. Never were reused and really don't remember any leakage from these at all. 

I called the pump shop and asked about which was better and the gent said he sends both types out with rebuilt pumps so I discern it's personal preference in a lot of uses?  Five of the six are sealed but the #1 cylinder line is giving fits. Torque is proper @ 420 inch pounds with a calibrated wrench/tool. As we mentioned I'm going to remove the line and "polish" the sealing surfaces of the banjo fitting. I know they've not been off the engine through several iterations of the pump being on, and off the engine. Twice they rolled the front drive seals not having the correct tool..... No damage to the engine fortunately as it was noticed to be making oil.  


Edited by Codger - 14 May 2022 at 7:10am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 7:13am
The banjo fitting to the steel line solder joint is compromised. Whether this is a resultant of being roughhoused, or a normal broken part from continuous vibration I cannot ascertain, but I called down for a replacement line to be sent me. I picked up new sealing washers yesterday but discovered a "trace" where fuel spray originated and getting a close look with a magnifying glass revealed a small break in this interconnection. I assume the connection is silver soldered but regardless I'll replace the line itself from a donor tractor. 
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