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Jacob (WI,ND) 
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Location: Kenmare, ND
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 Topic: I'm working on a WD for our local Pioneer Village
Posted: 16 Jun 2013 at 3:29pm |
Hi all!
I haven't posted in a while, but I check in almost daily. I haven't had much time to work on my own projects lately. But I have a new project. I am helping our local Pioneer Village here in Kenmare, ND by fixing up a narrow front Allis WD they had donated to them.
It's actually a nice deal for both them and me. They get one of there tractors fixed up, and I get to get some time in working on my old rusty junk addiction! (I'm donating all my time, they are paying for parts)
Anyway, this WD needs lots of help. It technically was a "runner", but only by the loosest definitions of the word. The manifold gaskets were completely shot and the mating surfaces were really bad, so I pulled the head and cleaned it all up and had the mating surfaces machined flat. I cleaned up all the valves and checked everything over and lapped the valves. Put new soft plugs in the head, because they were shot, and antifreeze was starting to get in the engine. Drained the oil and put fresh in. Put the head back on this weekend. New thermostat and upper housing (old one was junk). New radiator hose, radiator cap, temperature gauge (old one was broke off and soldered shut. new oil fill cap (original shot).
New plugs and wires. new oil filter and oil pressure gauge.
I took off the gas tank and cleaned that out. Fished the chunk of wood out of the tank (always use a LONG stick to check the gas, so this dose not happen, LOL!). Removed the fuel filter bowl from tank and cleaned (plugged with rust flakes) new brass screen installed and all put back together good as new. Put tank back on tractor with new welting below.
I took apart and cleaned the carb. All looked good so I'm not going to get a complete rebuild kit just yet.
Ordered a new battery box (none on tractor). Got a new battery and cables.
Took the shifting tower off (was stuck in gear, ended up being the tranny stuck which I got freed up, not the shifter) and cleaned and re installed. All looked good, but the tranny and wet clutch are bad looking. There was basically no oil, just water in both (there was no shift boot, there is now).
The shift collar in the wet clutch is shot, and I will need to find one of these. and the bearing between the wet clutch and the transmission compartments is in need of replacement. Not sure I want to split this tractor just yet though, that is a big job.
The wet clutch is completely stuck together. I'm hoping once I get some oil in there and drive her around some I may get lucky and it will free up. Probably not, but it's worth a shot.
I went to put on the manifold that I had machined flat, only to discover that it must have been done before and there is not enough clearance between the manifold and the water manifold (piece that thermostat is in). That and the manifold gaskets wont work because the manifold is too "Fat" from being surfaced. So I ordered a new manifold.
And if you're still reading, great!
Now I have some questions:
The shaft that goes through the front end that the hand crank goes on is binding on the top of the steering gear that goes down through the front end. I know this is the problem because when I jack the front end of the tractor up off the ground (so there is no strain on the front axle) the crank turns free as it should. What is the problem? Bad bearing on the bottom? Is there any chance there is just some adjustment that can be made? Help me here, this is something that I have not done before.
I also want to give a shout out to Jim D at OK Tractor. I ordered a bunch of parts from him (and actually just ordered a bunch more) and everything came as they should. Thanks!
I also need a few parts for this WD:
If you can help me, please PM me or Email me with what you have and price (Please remember this is for a volunteer project, so any discounts are much appreciated)
I need the engine clutch pedal lock lever. The little lever that flips down to lock the clutch pedal when crank starting the tractor. It is missing on this tractor. like this:
As I mentioned earler, I need the transmission clutch (wet clutch) shifter collar. This is the two piece collar that bolts together with a pin on both sides. The one on the tractor is completely worn through on one side and is no longer held on the shifter piece. like this:
I'm sure there will be more, but for now that should get me going! Thanks again for all the help in advance! I truly appreciate it, this site and all the people on it are the best!
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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norm[ind]
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Posted: 16 Jun 2013 at 7:02pm |
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we have the collars 1-574-342-4545 can ship usps priority mail
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Location: Kenmare, ND
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Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 7:27pm |
Ok, so in addition to the front end problem question, I have another:
And I know it's silly, but I'm not sure the correct way...
Can someone post a picture of how the two clips mount to store the hand crank on the fender of this WD?
I've come up with many possibilities, and don't know which is correct, LOL! And my manuals don't show a little detail like that, which everyone is SUPPOSED to know.... It does reference the circle clip (that the spinner handle goes into) is for the front and the "z" shaped one is for the rear.
I feel so dumb for having to ask this. Thanks!
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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omahagreg
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Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 7:51pm |
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Greg Kroeker
1950 WD with wide front and Freeman trip loader
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 10:46pm |
Perfect Greg! Thank you! I can put it on correctly now!
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 11:38pm |
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Been too many years sine I was in the narrow front. I think it used a tapered roller facing up. Something has worn whether the cone race or the cup race.Dad (local mechanic) used to shim em back down with large washers. Look at breakdown in agcopartsbooks.com as guest vewier.
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Redwood
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Posted: 19 Jun 2013 at 7:33am |
Our WC narrow front end had multi shims and was welded up on top of the spindle casting(for additional shimming) attached to the bottom of the front end casting, even then it wore enough in it's many years of use to be hitting the key in the shaft. The constant hammering on the end of the key mushroomed the key until there was enough force to the groove in the verticle shaft. 
This is also as a result of there being to much wear at the spindle casting as well as pushing up the top gear. The shaft just drops in if you take the spindle casting off it will just pull out.
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 19 Jun 2013 at 7:44pm |
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Yes, I have the manual so I see what is in the front end, I was just looking for some advice or tricks from someone that has been though it before, before I took it apart. I guess I just have to tear into it to find the problem. Thanks all, I'll let you know what I find....
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 4:44pm |
So a little update from today:
I got all the engine stuff put back together and got it running last night until it was up to temperature for a minute.
This morning I went back and re torqued the head and manifold bolts. They didn't move nearly as much as the ones on my WD did when I redid that one. So I'm thinking I'll check them again after I run it some more.
So I got it running again, and it seemed to be running decent, so I took it out of the barn and up and down the frontage road a few times for its maiden voyage. It still was runnning ok (not great), so I figured I'd take it over to where I work (across the highway, maybe two blocks away) and hook up to the drag and drag the gravel parking lot a little to see how she ran with a little load. Well, things went downhill from there....
It just was gutless. Full throttle it stumbled and lacked power just pulling a medium sized drag (which should be no problem for a WD). I fiddled with the power jet t handle on the bottom of the carb, with little result. About the only thing it did was kill the tractor If I turned it in too far.
Then it died all together. Crap I was thinking, how am I going to get this back across the highway and into the barn. Ok check the basics. I opened the drain valve on the bottom of the carb, only a dribble then nothing.
OK, I got no gas. Check tank. Empty. Stupid me..... (I had put some in, but obviously not as much as I had thought) Fill her up.
Get her going again. It still is not starting right off like it should. I'm not sure why. I'll have to check carb shaft seals, they might be leaking.
I figgure I better not press my luck and limp it back across the highway and into the barn, still not running worth a crap. I can take the throttle linkage by the carb and move it by hand to rev it up, and it just bogs down really bad before it reves up like it should.
What do you all think? I cleaned out the carb, but I'm thinking that there must be a passage plugged up again?
There is gas getting to the carb, I'm fairly confident that is not the problem.
Looks like I'll order a proper carb rebuild kit and go from there. But that is the next question: what type of carb do I have? It's a Marvel I know that, but there are no tag or numbers on it like there should be. It does not have the correct size opening where the air comes in, it is much bigger. The new air cleaner hose is way to small for this carb, but it is correct, it works on the air cleaner.
Is this a carb for a WD45? Did they have a bigger opening? Or something else?
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 5:42pm |
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WD had smaller air cleaner than 45.When dad put 45 manifold and carb on his WD,he used the bigger 45 hose and slipped a piece of hose over the WD cleaner for a bushing of sorts.
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 6:04pm |
Ok experts, correct me if I'm wrong here...
for marvel carbs there are basically two types. The TSX 159 style for the WD's and the TSX 464 for the WD45's.
So I'd want the carb kit for the TSX 464 since my carb must have been from a 45 originally. (again, since the tags are gone on this particular carb)
Do I have that correct? Or am I over simplifying it?
And thanks Steve, I'll have to do something like that.
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 02 Sep 2018 at 7:40pm |
Anyone remember this thread? LOL, it's an oldie, but I dug it up again.
I've been working on this WD again recently. I had not touched it since about 2013 when I last posted, as life tends to get in the way of these projects sometimes, but they were recently asking me about it, so I told them I'd come show them what I had done to it, and maybe work on it a bit more for them.
So, my goal was to get it running again for them, and fix a few more of the things I know it needed. So back to the basics, cleaned gas tank, cleaned fuel bowl and put a new rubber gasket in it. Took the carb off and cleaned it out, though it was pretty good from before when I had cleaned it out. But if you remember it was running poorly back in 2013 so a cleaning was in order anyway. I made up a new gas line. Got another new battery, as the one I had put in it back then was already shot, from not being used or maintained. I'll show them how to maintain it this time, put it on a trickle charger over winter so it lasts.
Got it to turn over great, but would NOT fire! Not even a try to run, one pop at best. What the heck, this ain't my first rodeo, so it was making me mad! After trying everything under the sun, took the carb back off AGAIN, and cleaned it all out top to bottom, took all the seats out, etc... wire through passages, blew out with air, the works. Put it all back together and she started, so there must have been a tiny bit of crud in there somewhere, I'm thinking in the idle circuit. Man is that frustrating.
But it gave me a good excuse to use my set of gasket hole punches I got a while back. Boy do they work slick, I highly recommend you get yourself a set if you don't have one already. Here is a Pic:
But it still was running not great. So I was fiddling with the plug wires, seeing if that made a difference, and yeah they had the rubber 90* plug ends on that were grounding out to the head. Could feel a little zaps when you touched them and see sparks.
Welp, there is the problem. Got a new set of straight end plug wires, and she smoothed right out, huge improvement!
Working on cleaning out the air cleaner, so I can get that back on the tractor.
Then I turned my attention to the breaks. I have since bought the break pin puller from Gary Agrimson but had yet to use it. So this was a good excuse to get it out.
The right side came out as expected. Not easy by any means, but not too terribly bad. The puller works like a champ, again highly recommended. Here are some pics:
Then I tried to left side. Not so good. You know how they say that Gary's puller will pull the head off the pin before the puller will break? Yeah, they are right. Pulled the head off, crap. Pic:
SOoooooo..... that side is on hold for now. Not sure what my next plan of attack is.
Here is a video of the tractor running: [TUBE]rhfsNbWSles[/TUBE]
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 02 Sep 2018 at 7:41pm
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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deadeye
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Posted: 02 Sep 2018 at 9:09pm |
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Sounds pretty good, nice to see it has a magneto like it came from the factory, most of the ones I have seen have been changed to a Delco distributor.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 7:12am |
Jacob, Old thread revived: You had stated problems with the front end:
I replaced the lower bearing and both seals in several of these tractors. and have seen improvement. Hand crank shaft was hitting steering gear as you mentioned. I think I didnt put all my shims back in? May have to recheck that too. Regards, Chris
Your question below:
"The shaft that goes through the front end that the hand crank goes on is binding on the top of the steering gear that goes down through the front end. I know this is the problem because when I jack the front end of the tractor up off the ground (so there is no strain on the front axle) the crank turns free as it should. What is the problem? Bad bearing on the bottom? Is there any chance there is just some adjustment that can be made? Help me here, this is something that I have not done before."
Edited by Sugarmaker - 03 Sep 2018 at 7:25am
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 7:24am |
Jacob, I should at some point in my Allis life, replace a set of brakes too! Its on the list of things. Those stuck pins look to be the challenge! Sounds like you might have to cut that broken pin out?? The WD your working on looks pretty good. Better than some I drag home. Very nice your working on it for the Church too! You always have good documentation and pictures! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 8:53am |
Chris, yes, this is still an issue. I had done some reading of old threads about rebuilding the narrow front ends, and kept running into people saying that the bearing down there had unusual "barrel shaped" rollers and was either obsolete or very hard to find. So back then I decided to not tear into that. I may do it yet. It sure would be nice to be able to use the hand crank. Where did you get the bearing and seals? I have a feeling this really shouldn't be that bad of a job, but I don't want to bite off more than I can chew, and rack up too huge of a parts bill for them, for a tractor that in reality never gets used. It's a tough situation, I want to fix it all up for them, but I know they could go buy a restored one cheaper than completely redoing this one. Sigh... the realities of fixing these things. Any advice and info on rebuilding the font end is appreciated!
 Sugarmaker wrote:
Jacob,Old thread revived: You had stated problems with the front end:
I replaced the lower bearing and both seals in several of these tractors. and have seen improvement. Hand crank shaft was hitting steering gear as you mentioned. I think I didnt put all my shims back in? May have to recheck that too. Regards, Chris
Your question below:
"The shaft that goes through the front end that the hand crank goes on is binding on the top of the steering gear that goes down through the front end. I know this is the problem because when I jack the front end of the tractor up off the ground (so there is no strain on the front axle) the crank turns free as it should. What is the problem? Bad bearing on the bottom? Is there any chance there is just some adjustment that can be made? Help me here, this is something that I have not done before."
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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garden_guy
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Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 9:04am |
Jacob (WI,ND) wrote:
I had done some reading of old threads about rebuilding the narrow front ends, and kept running into people saying that the bearing down there had unusual "barrel shaped" rollers and was either obsolete or very hard to find. So back then I decided to not tear into that. I may do it yet. It sure would be nice to be able to use the hand crank. |
Oh man, I read the same stuff, so I never tore into mine either. If I could find the right bearing and race, I would snap it up quick. I've heard people say AGCO can still source it, but it's $$$.
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 9:08am |
yeah, this is the first I have personally done a complete break job on this model tractor as well. I have done the little B/C sized ones, and adjusted the WD style before, but never completely taken them out. If that bottom pin comes out, it is a piece of cake to do! Both shoes easily come up out of the top to rebuild once the pin is out.
But getting that pin out is the hard part. The puller is a must. I am thinking of having a friend weld a nut onto the end of the pin, and see if we can get it rotating then work it out. I don't have a welder at my disposal here, and getting the tractor out of the barn would call for moving a few other things out of the way. But it may come to that. I could cut the pin off from the bottom, and drive the outer part in and get it out through the bottom. Some guys end up doing that. But how does one get the innermost half of the pin out then??
Just to correct, this is not a Church, but a Pioneer Village. Think historical society set up with buildings to show history, like blacksmith shop, barber shop, old bank, claim shacks, etc... Tourist stop kinda thing. They have a lot of neat stuff there if you are into history stuff, as I am.
This tractor is pretty rough. It was used hard and not maintained, and put away wet. But I am slowly getting it at least mechanically fixed.
Sugarmaker wrote:
Jacob, I should at some point in my Allis life, replace a set of brakes too! Its on the list of things. Those stuck pins look to be the challenge! Sounds like you might have to cut that broken pin out?? The WD your working on looks pretty good. Better than some I drag home. Very nice your working on it for the Church too! You always have good documentation and pictures! Regards, Chris
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 5:45pm |
Jacob, The Pioneer village has found a good helper. I agree that most of the time you can buy tractors cheaper than you can build them. On the bearing for the front. I probably didn't get the correct barrel shaped version. I just measured the size, and or maybe used the old part number on the bearing? Anyway here are the parts I used. The first tractor I did it greatly improved it. The WD45 I am working on need some more attention. I did find the shims today, and will be taking it apart again and reviewing that again.
Old bearing in WD45 front pedastal:
New bearing, race and two seals, sorry for the blurry pic.
Trial of the lower seal:
Hope this helps. Also would be good to know if this bearing will not work properly for some reason too. Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 03 Sep 2018 at 8:42pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 5:49pm |
So I spent more hours than I care to think about today trying to get that blasted pin to move. No luck. I did take the adjusting nuts off the top end and wiggle each of the brake shoes to free them up from the pin. They were stuck, so I'm sure that will help free the pin up a bit. The actuating rod broke off while trying to remove it, so now I am forced to get the bottom pin out to fix that along with the brakes. The pin must be at least case hardened, as I can not get a pipe wrench, vise grips, etc... to get a bite on it. I tried to go the drill it out to tap it for a bolt for the puller again route, but because it is hard, the drill bits wouldn't touch it. I think I have exhausted my options short of bringing the tractor to someone to weld a nut on the pin approach. With all the beating and cussing, I did move the pin IN just a bit, so hopefully that means it is less stuck than it was before I started.
Sigh, the tractor won this battle.... A bit frustrating.
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 6:08pm |
Hey Chris, thanks for the info on the bearings and seals! If anyone else knows more about them I'd like to know before I tear into that project. Keep me posted on what you find when you tackle the WD45.
edit: you might have to type out the part numbers for me, I can't quite make out that top one, thanks
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 03 Sep 2018 at 6:10pm
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 7:32pm |
Jacob, After I posted the picture, I knew you would ask. The small upper seal is: RMK 172373BHRM
I forgot to mention: Budget around $100 for the bearing race and seals.
Two suggestions on the brake pin that I have heard of; 1. apply lots of side force to the stuck pin with a air hammer and a custom end to allow many repeated blows, which along with your favorite penatrate, may loosen the rust. This may work much better prior to the head of the pin being broke off? 2. The torch out a section and drive a section through. This seems like a tough project. upside down with a torch in a greasy orange cavity! Lot of folks have wrestled with these. I am not the expert. I think someone like Don (MO) would be a good person to ask.
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 03 Sep 2018 at 7:37pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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garden_guy
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Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 7:50pm |
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Sugarmaker -- Oh splendid, I have been looking for that exact thing myself! How about the shims? I read somewhere that you have to add them so that when you re-assemble, the bearing gets pressed up into the race by the pedestal?
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 8:15pm |
garden_guy wrote:
Sugarmaker -- Oh splendid, I have been looking for that exact thing myself! How about the shims? I read somewhere that you have to add them so that when you re-assemble, the bearing gets pressed up into the race by the pedestal?
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Don't mistake me for someone that knows anything about these! I just fumble around and try to make some improvements.:) The shims I am speaking of go on the bolt that comes up from the bottom I think. So not sure if we are talking about the same shims? I guess I did not find any other shims. Again I have not looked at a service manual on this front pedestal assembly in a while or maybe ever?
(My dad always told me don't be afraid to take it apart! Someone had to build it. You can figure out how to get it back together. Most of the time this works!)
Humm "bearing getting pressed into the race by the pedestal"? Well you got me there that just hasn't sunk in yet! I took the old race out. Then, if I remember correctly, ground about .03 off the O.D. of the old race and used it to "seat" the new race by tapping it up into place. Again I cant remember what I had for breakfast so dont hold me to it!
Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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garden_guy
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Joined: 05 Jul 2013
Location: Illinois
Points: 1150
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Posted: 06 Sep 2018 at 6:23pm |
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Sounds like there is an adventure to be had working on the spindle. Oh boy! Both my WDs have some serious wobble and slop in their front ends, so guess I need to start working through 'em piece by piece until they snug up again.
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
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Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 8:25pm |
So I have a few more updates on the old WD. I have been cleaning out the filthy air cleaner this past week. I made a custom cleaning tool, a piece of flat stock with a couple bends on the ends to scrape the big junk out of the narrow passage around the sides of the cleaner. I also took out all the steel wool rolls from the center section and cleaned them all out. I then submerged the entire air cleaner in a barrel of water and full strength simple green mixture, and a couple of big squirts of Dawn dish soap. I'd let it soak for a half day, then take it out and run the hose through all the passages and flush all the crap I could out, then place it back in the barrel to soak some more. I repeated this several times, and when I though I had most of the gunk out, I took the air compressor and blew around all the nooks and crannies until no more crud was coming out. I feel it is fairly clean now. A more caustic solution (lacquer thinner, etc...) would have worked better, but I wanted to be able to just dump out the barrel once finished without having to worry about disposing of more harsh chemicals.
I also put the mixer on the drill to swirl things around a bit in the barrel every once in a while.
Here are some pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ACP8B1g8rxzS39X9
I gave the air cleaner a coat of primer, and a coat of paint today. Only a few sags, sigh... so I'll wait for it to fully dry and I'll sand them a bit and give one more coat of paint. Then it can all go back together and back on the tractor!
I found a chunk of radiator hose at Napa today to go from the air cleaner to the carb.
I then went back to the stuck brake pin. I came up with one last idea to try before bringing it to a friend to weld a nut on the end of the pin (which would be tricky to get it out of the barn at this point in time, other things are parked in front of it for the winter already and winterized). I took a cutoff wheel in the angle grinder, and carefully ground two flats on what was left of the pin sticking out. This was enough to be able to actually get a bite on the pin and get it to rotate JUST a BIT!! But once I felt it rotate ever so slightly, I knew I had it licked! I worked it back and forth tiny bit by tiny bit, just taking my time and keeping soaking it down with PB Blaster. And it slowly began to move a bit more with each wiggle. Eventually I got a full rotation on it and just kept working it around and around and spraying the heck out of it. After a long while of fiddling with it, it finally came out, but it sure put up a fight!
Of course the shoes came out the top easily once the pin was out. I then took a shop vac and long screwdriver and cleaned out all the mice habitat from around the brake drums.
I also took a round wire brush the size of the pin hole, and chucked it in the drill and ran it through the bore until everything was shined up. I'll slather it with never-seez when I put it back together and the next guy should have a much easier time!
I ordered up some break linings tonight. Are there any tricks to installing the linings in the shoes? I think it is pretty self explanatory, but I'm not ashamed to ask an occasional dumb question.
Here are a few more pics of the process and parts:
Sure feels good to have that dumb pin out, man was that a chore, LOL!
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 14 Sep 2018 at 8:27pm
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 16 Sep 2018 at 1:53pm |
Jacob, nice job getting that pin out! Your pictures are not loading up on here? Maybe that was your intent? Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
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Posted: 16 Sep 2018 at 2:29pm |
Sugarmaker wrote:
Jacob, nice job getting that pin out! Your pictures are not loading up on here? Maybe that was your intent? Regards, Chris |
Thanks, it was a bugger to get out. Yes, the pics will not show up here, I have been using Google Photos to store and share my pics online. The only down side to using it is that you can link to the pics to be viewed (as I am doing here) but not embed them directly on other sites like this. I am willing to make that trade off because Google Photos is free and had no adds and garbage like other photo hosting sites have. Just click on my links to view pics.
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
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Posted: 29 Sep 2018 at 9:52pm |
So I got the old shoes cleaned up and the new linings riveted on. I put the new springs on as well. I have a friend welding up one of the break rods, a new head on one of the break pins, and making one new part where the break rod threads into. One side was in poor shape from years of mice habitat. Stupid mice.
Here are the links to the pics of the relined shoes:
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Sugarmaker
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Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 30 Sep 2018 at 9:26am |
Jacob, Thanks for the pictures! Makes me want to go out and tear into the brakes on my 45 too. I think this is one of those projects that needs to be done every 50 years! Maybe I should just go soak the pins with blaster first!:) I assume you have a riveting tool? Pictures of that would be good. Have not done that. Your work and documentation is good. BTW I know your using Google for the pictures I am using a Imgur software no adds and free too, at least of now. I like it. Probably have 500 + pictures on it since Christmas. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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