Ian's D14 project and questions.

2 days after i brought it home.



So as she sits now.  I bought it last august. Got it home.  Parked it in the barn. played with it the next day for about 20 minutes, checked the oil...white.  So pulled the hood and valvecover, full of water.  Not sure if it was because the grommets around the bolts were gone and the hood was smashed into a bucket shape directing all the rain into the motor or its got bad freeze/plugs or head gasket.  I bought a gasket kit, got ready to tear it down, and my truck blew up.  Priorities...
So 5 months later, the truck is fixed, a couple other projects are getting finished so I'm starting to tinker with the allis again.  I've beaten most of the dents out of the grill and screen, however the hood panels may be too far gone for my sheetmetal repair skills...which are somewhat limited.  So my question there is, are d15 hood panels the same as a d14? I'm having trouble even finding D14 metal for sale.

It does have 14.9x24 tires on, one decent and one gone , so I'll need some new rubber sometime soon, there's car tires on the front that I dont know how they hold air, but they do. 

Mechanically it ran good and drove ok in 1,2, and 3.  I never tried 4th.  The PD worked but it never went into Neutral.  Clutch felt good and brakes worked. The first of my two biggest concerns I have are that the hydraulics didn't work at all, I've heard that the lobes on the shaft have been known to wipe off and are very pricey.  I'm crossing my fingers It's something else.  The second concern is that while it's sat, ALL, it seems of the transmission/PD/PTO fluid has leaked out.  I'm not sure where it's coming from.  The seal around the PTO shaft is leaking but the bell for the Snap coupler is covered as well.  I have not investigated much yet at all either of these problems.  Only looking for suggestions on where to start really.  I'm an auto mechanic, but am new to working on big tractors, past normal maintenance and basic operation so any help or guidance is appriciated.  The hydraulic system is the real mystery to me, as I don't have much experience at all in that, so wish me luck.

Plan to use it mainly as a mower and working tractor around the property, light dirt grading and maybe garden plowing.  Been fun tinkering so far, plus the neighbors all have John Deere CUTs so kinda looking forward to parading around on a 50 year old bright orange Allis :)  I'll post some more pictures and ask more questions I'm sure as I go along, Loving the site. 

It's actually gear oil that's leaking, I believe.  I assumed it was the transmission fluid, is it the same? I have a service manual for it, and have been reading but i guess I'm having trouble seeing exactly how all the different systems interact.  The hydraulics mainly.  I know the pump is behind the bottom cover of the torque tube. and the control valve is in there as well.  I assumed it had a seperate resorvoir for the hydraulics from everything else.  Unfortunately I've only become familiar with the sheet metal so far.  I have yet to dive into anything mechanical past the engine.

I've been on the lookout for a set of PAWs either 26 or 28.  I would like to stick with the wider tires seeing as it will see mostly yard duty, and that seems to be the hard/expensive part.

Fill it back up and see if the hydraulics work then check for leaks and as Charlie said check all the fluid levels again to see if one goes down and the other goes up.

WD or WD45 or D17/D15 rims tires will all interchange for rear tires.   My D15 came with 28" rims and I later found the correct D14/D15 rims/tires and sold the other ones.   I believe the D15 sheet metal is wider then the D14 sheet metal.   Watch ebay, from time to time someone will part out a d14.     I myself would deal with all the mechanical issues first and then worry about sheetmetal/tires.   Somewhere along the way you may or may not find something terminal and then at least you didn't spend money on tires etc before you got all the major stuff fixed.

The rear remote is plumbed parallel with the rear lift cylinder, the hydraulics will lift the easiest one 1st then the other. You would need to disconnect the supply line to the rear lift cylinder (before the rear remote) and attach the supply line to your test cylinder to determine if the pump functions. To get at the hyd cyl that operates the rear lift arm you need to remove the rear pumpkin; the cylinder and hos to it are inside. Not too difficult if you have a cherry picker hoist to pick the pumpkin.

hello everybody

i have a question about a d14 i was reading the posts on the hose leaking to the ram and my question is. is the line that feeds the ram internal to the tractor or is it external? the reason why i ask is i have to split my tractor to fix the pto drive and i know the pump is up front and the ram is in the middle towards the back so i was wondering if there is anything i should be carefull about when i split the tractor i will be splitting at the power director? and one other quick question when i split at the power director does that just slide off a spine shaft or will i have to disconnect anything inside before i side it apart. the manual is not to clear

Got the engine torn down to find out my coolant/oil mixture problem.  The freeze plugs in the head seem to be intact, the two outer most ones look newer though.  I'm going to replace all of them in any case.  What type are better, steel or brass? I would think brass would corrode less easily.  My other concern is that the head gasket doesn't seem to show signs of leaking which leaves the liners.  How often do the liner orings go bad?  and can you get them without the liner itself?  I'm leaning towards buying an entire overhaul kit at this point.  I found 3 cracked rocker towers, held together with hose clamps from a previous owner.  I need a water pump for sure. 
I do have a question about the overhaul kits.  They mostly are listed as overbore 3 and 9/16" and for the d14 as well as the d15.   with this and a governor spring make this essentially a d15 motor?



Edited by Ian - 12 Mar 2012 at 10:29pm

Also I use the brass freeze plugs.

I planned on making my own but I couldn't get access to a mill. If you do make your own make sure you put in the oil galley and hole for it. Good luck, if you have any questions I would be more than happy to help.

Allis you do have to take the lift arm housing off.  You don't have to mess with it to split it further foward though, I don't believe.  I've never split mine so I'm not entirely sure.  Hopefully someone else can chime in.  The line is rubber.  and if you unbolt the remote ontop of the housing and pull it up you'll see where it goes into the bottom of that.  you can't get to the ram side with the housing on though.  hope this helps!

Jeff I did see the oil notch thankfully, but is there a seperate feed hole I missed?  I just looked breifly tonight but haven't started making anything yet. Im sure it would be detrimental if it were omitted :)

Thanks for the help.

Allis yes, the external line that runs from under the gas tank to the remote block will need to come off to split it. I had the same thoughts when I started into this.  I thought the external line fed only the remote hookup, and there was an internal line.  But others helped steer me here.  the service manual does have it in there but its hard to see.  once you know what you're looking at you'll see it.  That's how it happened for me anyways.  Help from others on here and once I got into it and took it apart it all became clear lol.  Well as clear as it can be for me I guess. :)

Ian, now that I think about it, I think there is just the through hole for the stud and a horizontal oil notch, that notch is just a drain to drain the oil from the rocker arm shaft. Make sure you do have both ends of the shaft plugged, they used cork originally. The oil is supposed to drain from those notches to provide proper lubrication to the rocker arms. You then have a tube that goes from the head to the rocker arm shaft.

What you can do for the oil lines is just replace them with steel brake line. You may be able to replace them with stainless steel but am not sure if you would be able to flare it properly. If they look okay, I just clean them out and to a pressure test on them by plugging the end and putting a few pounds of air through em.

Edited by JeffMOnt - 15 Mar 2012 at 8:21am