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Tractorbeam 
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Joined: 13 Apr 2017
Location: SouthONCanada
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 Topic: I want to buy an Allis B,C
Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 9:17am |
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Good morning, This is my first post and I hope I'm doing this properly. I'm finally at a point in my life where I'm ready to own a real tractor. I need one to maintain 5 or 600 feet of gravel drive, mow a couple of acres, and move snow in the horrible season we call winter. For whatever reason I've had a crush on the Allis B, C tractors for a while. I'm ready to take the plunge since prices have dropped dramatically in the last few years around here. I guess its because the new generation doesn't like old equipment as much as we do, or just doesn't have the experience or tools needed to maintain a 50 plus year old machine. I love the simplicity and the no frills approach of old machines. LOVE IT!!!! All the wires and computer controls on newer machines puts a lump in my throat. What should I look for when I go shopping? Any known problem areas? Common (expensive) problems with these models? Although its become more difficult lately, I like getting my old hands dirty, and I know enough to muddle through most repairs. I'm excited, but nervous about buying a lemon. My budget can't absorb an expensive mistake. Thank you for your time, and thank you in advance for you help. Jeff
Edited by Tractorbeam - 14 Apr 2017 at 9:51am
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CAL(KS)
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Chapman, KS
Points: 3800
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 9:30am |
welcome. You have come to the right place.
The B and C were 1 and 2 row tractors respectively and are quite similiar. The model A is a very coveted and collectable standard behemoth compared to the B and C. at 1200 units produced and approx 60 hp it was billed as the thresherman's special and is out of reach for most of us enthusiasts.
If the engine runs and doesnt smoke excessively and the transmission shifts and drives correctly, the biggest issue you will run into is tires. A good machine with junk tires, while better in the long run because the tires can be easily replaced, can run up costs. unless you decide that you want a fixer upper, be sure to drive the machine, listen for odd noises and signs of excessive wear and ensure that the cooling and electrical systems are functioning properly.
The b and C also use AC proprietary implements and are not factory 3pt equipped so keep that in mind.
Edited by CAL(KS) - 14 Apr 2017 at 9:35am
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Tractorbeam
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 9:47am |
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Thank you. I just realized I typed ABC and it should have only been B and C. I guess I flashed back to learning the alphabet LOL. Not sure how to remove the A part of my post. OOPS.
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Tractorbeam
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 9:50am |
Thanks Cal figured out the edit button.
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DaveSB
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 10:33am |
The B and C are both great tractors, I have a C that I have owned for over 30 years, have used it to mainly to mow with and light garden work and a few other chores. A great little tractor. However, if your wanting to maintain a driveway and use a rear blade with it, I would recommend a CA over the B or the C because most CA's came with a snap coupler which could be easily converted to 3 point use, or you could locate the original snap coupler blade to use behind it and other snap coupler equipment. The CA is almost the same tractor as the C except for a 4 speed transmission, snap coupler or pin hitch, spin out wheels, and it has traction boost which is great for plowing. There could be other differences that I'm missing, but there pretty similar tractors, to me anyway, the CA just has some nice newer features. Now, please don't take me wrong, the B and C will do what you want it to, you may just have to convert it to 3 point to use a blade or modern implements. They both have plenty of power to do the task you mentioned and are fun to operate. I love my C to mow with, and actually prefer it to my zero turn mower that I also have. When looking at perspective tractors, just make sure they run good, no knocking or smoking, the brakes hold, the governors respond when you apply the brakes hard. Check all fluids, make sure the oil is clean, no water contamination in engine oil is the big thing. Antifreeze should look good and clean. Also tires are expensive, so good tires are a plus. Check charging system, to make sure it works, and lights are nice, a lot of tractors are missing them, and nice original looking ones cost around $100 for a set, and the original switch, if 6 volt can easily run another $50, so small things can add up. Listen for noises in the transmission, and rear end, I've never heard of a B or a C jumping out of gear like some of the later Allis tractors but be sure to drive it in all gears, and remember to make sure PTO works and that it has one, as that some B's didn't have PTO's. Might want to check inside fuel tank and look for any excessive rust also, never know, don't want any surprises. Good luck in your search, any of these little tractors are sweet machines and will surprise you in how much work they will do. I'm sure you will enjoy which ever one you buy.
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1948 C, 1953 CA, 1948 WD, 1961 D-17 Series 2 Diesel, 1939 WC, 1957 D14
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Tractorbeam
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 2:26pm |
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Thanks very much DaveSB. I'm pretty comfortable with the inner workings of an engine so spotting the basics hopefully won't be to much of an issue. Its nice to know that there hasn't been any particular part that is a known problem. I know nobody can know for sure what problems may be lurking inside the engine or trans , especially after half a century or more , but I'll try my best. Interesting information on the 3 point. I'll do some more research before I start scheduling viewing times. Kind of exciting to finally start looking. My first real job as a young man was running tractors with sickle bar mowers , cutting grass and weeds, fence line to fence line along the highways and rural roads for the county. I had no idea I'd grow up to miss the sound of that clattering sickle mower and the feel of a hot vinyl seat stuck to my butt. After a couple of years on those things I got pretty familiar with keeping them reliable. I also got pretty good at telling when the tractor was about to roll over back then. Watch your right front tire, when she stops turning, turn left (down hill) as fast as you can and floor the throttle. Kinda had to with no seatbelts or ROP. Hard to believe we would get in trouble for rolling those old girls. Looking at some of those hills I used to run parallel on, I have no idea how I even survived. Young and fearless. Different times for sure. Funny what you miss later in life. Have a good day. Jeff
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tadams(OH)
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 2:41pm |
A CA will give you more options as far as what you can do. You can put 3 point adapter on a CA and use more equipment
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sparky
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 3:04pm |
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CA's live PTO is handy when mowing also.
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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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B26240
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 4:06pm |
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I'm all in with the CA suggestion, as it has a four speed transmission with a good road speed in high gear.
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ac fleet
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 7:07pm |
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Ca will cost triple OR more of what a good B or C will, and are no better tractor, --just cost more.----I have several C and B tractors, and like them just fine!! thanks; ac fleet
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 7:20pm |
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My vote would be for a CA also, if you can find a decent one in your price range. The 4 speed transmission gives you better choices for different jobs as far as ground speed. The hydraulics is a step above the BC system and has traction boost when set properly.
Don't rule out a D14 if you come across one because they have 2 speeds for each gear, which CAN come in real handy at times and the "hand clutch" is much more reliable, in my opinion, than the CA.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 7:44pm |
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A D14 or CA is definitely better tractor, but I have several "B" and love them.. FIRST you have to decide how you are going to cut grass and blade with the same tractor. You can put a 3 point on a B, or you can use a Beam pinned under the tractor and lift with the rock shaft. I have a blade made from a plow beam and it works good.. Now how are you going to cut grass? Belly mower or rear 3 point, or bushhog ? I have a couple tractors with belly mowers that run off a rear pully... kind of labor intensive to remove and install a blade, etc ........ I have decided to have several tractors and each dedicated to a specific task.... If you have a 3 point, that makes switching easier.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 7:50pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 7:54pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 7:58pm |
Now I have an IB that sets lower and I built a 3 point for it.. It is my work horse.. Plow, disc, blade, rear bucket, trailer puller... more versatile
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Bill Long
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 8:28pm |
First, Welcome to the Unofficial Allis Chalmers Forum. As you can see there is a wealth of information here. I am very partial to the B. With my father I was pleased to sell the B - C - CA for the life of the unit. They are very depandable tractor with a suprising amount of power. That said I have to agree with the comments above about the CA. It has more features that you will enjoy, however, they are hard to find. Let me wish you good fortune on your search. Please keep in touch and let us know what you find. Thanks for keeping the Allis Chalmers name alive. Good Luck! Bill Long
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Dads 45
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Posted: 14 Apr 2017 at 10:23pm |
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There`s a WC with newer rubber in western PA and it runs good! $600 too.
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Tractorbeam
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Posted: 15 Apr 2017 at 6:05am |
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Found some C's and a CA in my price range. Hopefully the hunt begins tomorrow. Thanks to everyone who welcomed me, shared their ideas, opinions, and cool photos. One question I can't seem to find an answer to is, ***Can a CA be lowered???*** I can't tell from the pics I've found if you can clock the final drives like on a B or C. For my intended usage and my problems with my joints, lower is better, and even a few inches shorter, makes my storage options much easier. Jeff
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Bill Long
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Posted: 15 Apr 2017 at 2:43pm |
As much as I love the B I would have problem getting on it without a mounted implement for a step. I was on a C for a plow day last year and thank heaven it had the plow beam on it for a step. Also, there are steps available to make getting on much easier. Good Luck! Bill Long
ps: SteveIll, you have some real nice looking B's. Especially the IB
Edited by Bill Long - 15 Apr 2017 at 2:45pm
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AC720Man
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Posted: 15 Apr 2017 at 7:47pm |
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Dad has a CA with a 6 ft Woods belly mower on it. Does a great job, plenty of power, and the hand clutch allows live pro. So you can slowly go around objects while mowing. As long as your moving steering isn't an issue. But keep in mind none of these have power steering. He has cultivators, sickle mid mower, and 3 point for it so it can utilize lots of implements. Of the 3, its hands down my choice.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Mikez
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Posted: 15 Apr 2017 at 7:51pm |
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We have two project Bs for sale. Near Albany New York
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dt1050
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Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 3:40am |
love the b's, c's, etc. but have to agree with the ca comments, the live pto is great when mowing. I've seen a lot of b's converted to 3pt hitch, this helps with attachments. I like my tractors lower as well since I live on a side hill. I recently got a d14 and getting on and off is easy, unlike my wd 45 or other tractors that I had to crawl over the back of the machine. what I used to do is start the tractor, stand on what ever implement I had hooked up, raise the 3pt hitch and ride it up like an elevator. probly not supposed to, but when your gimped up ya learn to adapt. 
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Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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WF owner
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Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 6:04am |
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Where are you in Southern Ontario (I'm just across the river from Cornwall, Ontario)?
Check Kijiji.com . There are several CA's listed right now. A couple in south western Ontario are very reasonably priced.
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Dan Hauter
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Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 9:49pm |
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Welcome to the forum. I have a B so understand the attraction. Others have already given you some excellent advice. The only thing I can add is to take your time when looking over a tractor and try to spot visible problems like rusted out wheels, breaks/welds in the torque tube (I missed that when I bought my B.), cracked manifold, beat up sheet metal, missing parts like pieces of the battery box, hitch, etc. If the seller tries to rush you just remember that there will always be another used tractor for sale. Definitely drive it. I agree with new things being too complicated. Recently picked up a booklet for an F-250 at the Ford dealer. I don't think I'm smart enough to drive it!
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CrestonM
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Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 10:07pm |
 ac fleet wrote:
Ca will cost triple OR more of what a good B or C will, and are no better tractor, --just cost more.---- |
They're no better???? Um....more power, more transmission gears, live PTO clutch, power adjust rims, snap coupler, etc.
I vote CA all the way! Even though I do have a B, and I do enjoy it quite a bit.
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Tractorbeam
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Posted: 17 Apr 2017 at 2:33pm |
WF owner wrote:
Where are you in Southern Ontario (I'm just across the river from Cornwall, Ontario)?
Check Kijiji.com . There are several CA's listed right now. A couple in south western Ontario are very reasonably priced. |
Been monitoring Kijiji. I think a lot of people just leave ads up. I can't get a response from most. Im a little west of London Ontario. Didn't have enough characters to put my whole address. Looked at another turd today. Basically two halves of a tractor poorly welded together at some time. Major major major case damage. Magically wouldn't start for the first time ever according to the owner. Claimed to have owned it forever but never noticed the giant poorly done leaking welds all over the rearend and trans. He also couldn't figure out the throttle or find the light switch that enabled the ignition. Funny since he's owned it so long. No thankyou. Discouraging but, the search continues....... no rush. Thanks again to everybody.
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