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I need advise. Wd45 governor/throttle woes. |
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Feral Donkey ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 Dec 2018 Location: Wisconsin Points: 7 |
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Question. When the tractor is not running. Run the throttle low and it pulls on that spring under the governor cover up front. Should it be stretching the spring or should that spring act as solid linkage until the governor influences it? It stretches mine and doesn't move the bottom lever at all. I'm wondering if that cross over tube with the rotating linkage that goes under the fan is full of grunge? Or maybe the spring is old and weak? I pulled out the alternator/governor assembly and that all looks in good repair.
Rewind. Here's my situation. I got my first orange tractor a few weeks ago. Got a good deal on it. The guy I bought it from said the governor would loosten up and start working once I ran it more because it's been sitting a few years. Now when I was driving it around his driveway I could slow the throttle down at the control but not speed it up. Long story short, I took it home and used it and the throttle control does nothing. I set the throttle by putting the linkage on the carb side where I want it, climb on the tractor, and feather the clutch to keep it from killing when it's under a load. That got old and today I pulled it apart. ![]() ![]() |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21751 |
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Sitting in the seat, pull DOWN on the hand throttle. The internal governor spring should get stretched by being pulled upwards by the upper arm. At this time, you should be able to grab ahold of the vertical governor arm behind the generator/alternator and force it FORWARD towards the radiator about 1+ inch. This will be working against governor spring pressure. When you let go of the vertical governor arm it should snap back rearwards. This linkage has to be free and not binding anywhere. Can't be a cotter pin not installed properly at the carb end. The link rod to the carb goes close to the block with the cotter pin away from the block. Many novices install the link rod bass-ackwards.
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Feral Donkey ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 Dec 2018 Location: Wisconsin Points: 7 |
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Yup. Mine is bass ackwards. I just copied it the way it was when I got it. I'll look at it again in the morning. But I think the governor arm does go forward like an inch and snap back. Assuming it does, where do I look next?
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8457 |
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FD,
Dr Allis has given you some things to check. I see you have a picture. So you have removed the govenor/ distributor housing. I assume that the weights move freely? All the linkages can be suspect and worn at the joints too. I had one that had a mind of its own. Had to go through all the linkages and make adjustments and correct worn joints in the linkage system. Also there is a big spring under the tank on the right side. Make sure its hooked up correctly. Pictures can help us help you too.
Regards, Chris Edited by Sugarmaker - 05 Jan 2019 at 6:44pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Feral Donkey ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 Dec 2018 Location: Wisconsin Points: 7 |
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![]() Oh yeah. I went in baby steps taking it apart today. I did see the big spring under the tank. The linkage does not look especially worn. Now on the governor lever by the alternator there is a little clip should there be a spring on that? ![]() |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21751 |
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Whatever the he77 is strapped to the side of the vertical governor arm....GET IT OFF OF THERE !!
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Bill_MN ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Points: 1471 |
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There's nothing attached to that clamp on the governor arm is there? Because there shouldn't be anything there. Looks like a PO was jerry-rigging something to get around past problems with the gov. instead of fixing it properly, I would just take the clamp off. I see there's an alternator on it also, the elbow of that arm looks real close on that side, it's not hitting/binding on the bracket or alt body is it? Check the position of the arm for free movement throughout the range of the throttle lever.
Edited by Bill_MN - 05 Jan 2019 at 7:47pm |
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8457 |
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FD,
First thanks for the pictures. It may help as folks have already seen some things. For some reason and maybe its just the angle of the picture, but the govenor arm looks like it may have a bend in it? IIRC they are straight. that could be affecting the length of the throttle rod to the carb? Also in the first picture for some reason the governor spring looks twice as long as I remember? Could you get a close up of that? Please. Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 05 Jan 2019 at 9:11pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21751 |
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Just because the vertical governor arm is bent like that doesn't mean it's wrong. The key is the synchronization of the arm hole position to the carbs throttle shaft opening. Many arms have been bent like that and some the other way. Synching is key, not what it looks like.
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8457 |
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Dr Allis,
I agree, and based on your recommendations, I have tweeked the rod from there to the carb to get the right dimension and allow the governor to preform correctly. I think one of the books I read that bending that arm was the preferred method. I could never figure out how the get a hold on it and bend it without damaging something!:) So I usually put a kink in the rod to the carb. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Feral Donkey ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 Dec 2018 Location: Wisconsin Points: 7 |
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Sugarmaker, that is with the throttle all the way down. It just stretches the spring and does nothing else. Is that supposed to do that?
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Feral Donkey ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 Dec 2018 Location: Wisconsin Points: 7 |
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The governor arm barely clears the alternator. My friend stopped over and worked the arm some and we felt it free up. I kept squirting triflow in both ends and it got better and better. Now when I move the lever it moves the throttle on the carb. I'm putting it back together right now.
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Feral Donkey ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 Dec 2018 Location: Wisconsin Points: 7 |
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Does this stuff look correct?
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8457 |
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FD,
Sounds like you have persevered and have found your issue with the governor cross rod being tight. Also: Thanks for explaining the picture of the extended spring too. I thought that might be what I was seeing but had never seen it stretched I guess. Hope it runs much better. The rods and adjustments under the tank look about right. There is a adjustment that can be made if necessary to the length of the rod from the governor arm to the carb. Dr Allis and others are good at explaining how to check this. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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