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Hydraulic transmission oil level for CA

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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 12:28pm
When do you take the reading on the dipstick that shows low and Rams fully extended?
Do I take the level with the dipstick screwed all the way down and tractor and PTO engaged or tractor off Rams fully extended?
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 3:18pm
Rams extended, engine off, fill to full mark when dipstick is locked in.



Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 04 Apr 2020 at 3:19pm
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 9:13pm
Should be a topic covered in the shop manual: Or the operator's manual.

http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf 

Gerald J.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 6:41am
Ok,so what is the reason for having the cylinders full of hydraulic fluid when checking?(there's another thread on here of three point CA and this makes me believe that my three point system-cylinders included-were factory installed because they would have to know the volume of the cylinders for all that to work out as full on the dipstick correct?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 7:13am
Hydraulic oil level affects transmission oil level, so it appears they wanted to ensure enough oil in the transmission if the tractor was run for an extended time with the rams up. Also if a remote cylinder was used and the lift rams not "locked down", the lift cylinders will normally go full up before the remote cylinder will stroke, so the oil level could drop too low. Yes, they could have said rams down and put the full mark higher on the stick; but they didn't. A tractor without lift cylinders didn't need the extra oil, so this method of checking and dipstick marking covered tractors with or without rams. Just my thoughts on it.



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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 7:41am
Ok, so when I install/run my trip loader bucket on the ca, I'll have to connect the cylinders into the rear axillary port.
How do I "lock out" the rear lift Rams so when I operate the front bucket the rear lift cylinders don't go up and down at the same time?

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 05 Apr 2020 at 7:42am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 8:17am
I never saw a CA without the lift arms and cylinders. I don't think there was a factory option to delete them.
 Yes your cylinders were factory installed, but no CA ever had a factory installed 3 point hitch.
 As far as using a loader and having the 3 point hitch separate, you will have to buy a diverter valve. Use only one source from the hydraulic pump, to supply the diverter, then connect both lift arms to one output, and your loader, or remote to the other output.
 On my 45, I removed all connections to the hydraulic valve, plugged 2 of them and ran the other to my add on valve. Both lift arms connected to one side, and the loader rams connected to the other.
 I can raise the lift arms with the blade on, flip the valve forward and use the loader, while keeping the blade up. Stop the loader at about 3 feet high and flip it back, and the lift arms are used while the loader is held up.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 8:33am
Sorry, I was thinking of the original style drawbar where the cylinders were unhooked from the lift arms, arms swung down and connected to the drawbar. Then cylinders were then pinned into different holes in the arms. Won't work with your 3 point. A diverter valve as CTuckerNWIL posted would be best, as then you can use either by changing the valve position.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 8:37am
Great,(another project)🤔thanks for the info
Can someone share there pictures of how ctucker is talking about?
I'd also need to know where I can get all the parts( AGCO?)

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 05 Apr 2020 at 8:48am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 8:48am
Be sure ALL the extra plumbing is rated for 5000# !! Old A-Cs use a 3500# system unlie the modern stuff. Heck 'PAris' here had REGULAR pipe T in the 'diverter' plumbing !!!
It was the FIRST thing that 'found a new home'....

3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 8:59am
Hmmmm, did not know that it was that high psi.thanks Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 9:46am
A quick sketch of what Charlie is suggesting. You can get the parts many places; TSC, a hydraulic shop, Surplus Center, Baum, etc. And as Jay pointed out you are dealing with about 3500 PSI when it hits relief pressure.

2020-04-05_104038.pdf
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 11:05am
Man, thats exactly what I needed to see
Thanks much for taking the time!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 11:55am

If I were to be in a pinch and connect the front loader via the silver quick connect on the left side of my picture, would the front loader still work (I know the rear would be going up and down at the same time but I just don't know if I have time to get into repiping and buying the material for the diverter right now...)

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 05 Apr 2020 at 11:56am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 12:23pm
Yes, it would work, raise and lower using your tractor's existing valve. Does your loader have a control valve on it? Doesn't need one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 12:40pm
The only control that I have is the one coming directly out of the pump in the right side of the picture
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 1:03pm
That's good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 1:04pm
Ok, thanks
For now I guess I'm just going to have to use it this way until I can get a diverter installed into the system.
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