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DanC911 
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Joined: 22 Jul 2014
Location: CT, USA
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 Topic: hydraulic stop leak
Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 10:19am |
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Has anyone used a hydraulic stop leak additive?
I have been chasing a hydraulic leak in my WD for a while. I had the pump and PTO gearbox rebuild and that slowed it somewhat. I thought it was the connection for the rear remote so I plugged that but no luck. It has all new hoses and fittings.
It is more than an in inconvenience and bordering on annoying. I think it is why the lift arms drift if I leave them up but it leaks when they are down too. The hold valve is dry and went to Sandy Lake on the pump when I sent it out.
I ordered some dye to see if I can find it and saw the stop leak and thought I would ask for opinions. I am leery of quick fixes because they tend to hide a bigger problem.
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24337
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 11:13am |
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I would NEVER use a 'stop leak' product for hydraulics. It is NOT necessary if you totally go through the ENTIRE system.
When you say 'it leaks'. WHERE does it leak? Where does it dribble out from ?
I'm not a WD guy, know the pumps are different from the D-14s, but hydraulics is hydraulics...
reservoir,pump,hoses, rams....
I know you need to clean 100% of the system at the same time otherwise a speck of crud can 'float' around the system, that's where extra eyeballs help, strong lights and lots of 'flushing'( maybe 5-7 times).
Need more information and I KNOW there's a LOT od WD guys here that can help.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Joe(TX)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Weatherford. TX
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 11:21am |
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Have you tried rebuilding the lift cylinders?
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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DanC911
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Joined: 22 Jul 2014
Location: CT, USA
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 11:26am |
 jaybmiller wrote:
I would NEVER use a 'stop leak' product for hydraulics. It is NOT necessary if you totally go through the ENTIRE system.
When you say 'it leaks'. WHERE does it leak? Where does it dribble out from ?
I'm not a WD guy, know the pumps are different from the D-14s, but hydraulics is hydraulics...
reservoir,pump,hoses, rams....
I know you need to clean 100% of the system at the same time otherwise a speck of crud can 'float' around the system, that's where extra eyeballs help, strong lights and lots of 'flushing'( maybe 5-7 times).
Need more information and I KNOW there's a LOT od WD guys here that can help.
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The drip is coming off the drain plug on the bottom of the valve on the pump. (Not my pump, I borrowed a pic online. I think it's Sugarmaker's.) It is tight but I don't see any thread sealant on it and I don't think it is coming from there anyway. It is just the low point that it is dripping off.  The left side is moist about half way down so I think it is coming from above but I do not see any drips. That's why I am going to try the dye.
Edited by DanC911 - 09 Oct 2017 at 11:27am
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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Stan IL&TN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 11:27am |
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You need to give the old girl a good bath to clean away the crud so you can see where the leak is coming from. That would be my first step.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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DanC911
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Joined: 22 Jul 2014
Location: CT, USA
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 11:28am |
Joe(TX) wrote:
Have you tried rebuilding the lift cylinders? |
Bought rebuilt cylinders from a site member and replaced all of the hoses and fittings.
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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Bill Long
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 12:18pm |
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You may want to remove the plug and check to be certain the threads on the plug match the threads on the pump housing.
We did this once with a B oil pan. It was leaking so we put in a pipe plug. Bad idea. Wrong threads and leaked.
Drained the oil. Re-did the threads with a proper tap. Put in plug with matching threads and sealed with number one permatex (that is what we used in the 50's - I am certain there is better now)
Worked!
Hope this may help.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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CrestonM
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Location: Oklahoma
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 12:35pm |
Stan IL&TN wrote:
You need to give the old girl a good bath to clean away the crud so you can see where the leak is coming from. That would be my first step. |
Yep! From my experiences, cleaning a tractor is a sure-fire way to find leaks and resuscitate old ones. Lol
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DanC911
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 12:42pm |
CrestonM wrote:
Stan IL&TN wrote:
You need to give the old girl a good bath to clean away the crud so you can see where the leak is coming from. That would be my first step. |
Yep! From my experiences, cleaning a tractor is a sure-fire way to find leaks and resuscitate old ones. Lol |
That is why I am hesitant to pressure wash it.
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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Allis dave
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 12:53pm |
Agree with everyone. Need to find where it's leaking. COuld be several places gasket between the pump and torque tube. It's difficult to install the pump and not damage the gasket. oring between hold valve and pump. lines going into the hold valve. These are the mostly likely if Sandy lake rebuilt it. My money is on the pump to torque tube gasket
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darrel in ND
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 1:06pm |
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I wouldn't shy away from trying some lucas hydraulic booster in it. Darre
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DanC911
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 1:33pm |
darrel in ND wrote:
I wouldn't shy away from trying some lucas hydraulic booster in it. Darre |
So you would try it? Have you used it before? What was your experience?
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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m16ty
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 5:52pm |
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You're just going to have to clean the area and dry it really well and trace where it's coming from. If you develop new leaks from cleaning it, they needed addressing anyway so I wouldn't worry about that.
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Ed (Ont)
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 7:27pm |
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Some dye in the system is a good way to go. Do you have uv light and the glasses to go with it? Clean everything before you start. Run it a bit and start looking - indoors if at all possible. Very hard to see anything outside.
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DanC911
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 8:49pm |
Ed (Ont) wrote:
Some dye in the system is a good way to go. Do you have uv light and the glasses to go with it? Clean everything before you start. Run it a bit and start looking - indoors if at all possible. Very hard to see anything outside. |
I have the dye on order and the light and glasses from some UV adhesive I used to make redneck wine glasses from mason jars and candlesticks. They were a hit as Christmas gifts full of candy but I digress.
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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HD6GTOM
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Posted: 09 Oct 2017 at 8:55pm |
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Dan I have a hydra Mac skid loader that has o rings in blocks to seal the hydraulics. The Hydra Mac dealer told me they always leak. My hydraulic system holds somewhere between 20--30 gallon of oil. I put a gallon of Lucas hydraulic stop leak in the system Once a year. It slows the leaking down to where it is tolerable. I was apprehensive about using it, I use the loader in the winter to feed hay, wondered if it would plug filters. Hasn't adversely effected anything, need to put in another gallon soon.
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B26240
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Posted: 10 Oct 2017 at 6:11am |
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The way I do it is as follows, clean area of dirt and grease then spray starting fluid on it and blow dry with compressed air. Leak will be easy to see with good lite. I have never used stop leak and see it as "snake oil".
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Ted J
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Posted: 10 Oct 2017 at 8:30am |
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I agree with Allis dave, more than likely it's the gasket at the torque tube.
CAREFULLY try to tighten the bolts that hold the pump on. They COULD be loose, I've had it happen. And if someone pulled the pump and did some work on it, I'd bet money that the gasket got torn when putting it back in. It's VERY EASY TO DO, tear the gasket.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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CaseyCreek
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Posted: 11 Oct 2017 at 2:15pm |
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I have used Blue Devil stop leak in my Ford 7700 steering arm. Worked pretty well. I had just spent 180 dollars having it rebuilt and it leaked again almost as soon as I installed it. I threw some Blue Devil in it (about three ounces). So far, I prefer it to the hydraulic shop that rebuilt the cylinder.
On pretty much everything else, I agree that avoiding the miracle cure section of the auto parts store is a good rule of thumb.
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D17 Series III,D17 Series IV, 185
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DanC911
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Posted: 12 Oct 2017 at 9:55pm |
I put some UV dye in the hydraulic fluid and saw a leak from the hand
clutch cover. So I took off the battery box and the cover to find no
gasket and what looks like silicone calk. Just translucent or clear
caulk.  I made a gasket put it back together and started looking for other leaks. This
is the leak I have been chasing. Leaking from the bold on the right
and dripping off the drain plug on the bottom of the pump. Lights up
like a neon sign under UV light. I couldn't have found this one without
the dye.  Any suggestions for an easy fix? I really don't want to pull the pump again. Hytran is getting expensive!!
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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DrAllis
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Posted: 12 Oct 2017 at 10:40pm |
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If the gasket behind that right bolt head was installed without any sealer or goo, it will probably leak.
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DanC911
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Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 12:54pm |
DrAllis wrote:
If the gasket behind that right bolt head was installed without any sealer or goo, it will probably leak. |
Thanks Dr. Allis, That may be the problem. I think I have a temporary fix by using some thread sealant on the bolt and a fuel resistant o-ring behind the bolt. Leak seams to have stopped for now. Let's see what happens when I run it doing firewood this weekend.
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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