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Hydraulic Motors and WD45 ?? |
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Steve M C/IL
Orange Level Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Location: shelbyville IL Points: 691 |
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Posted: 08 Nov 2010 at 9:27pm |
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Been too long since Ive been around a 60 or a 90 but they figured a way to power the 90 reel off of live shaft some where.Might be able to engineer a kit similar to add on.
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TomYaz
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: PA Points: 10319 |
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I agree with you sentiments...Tahts why I was trying to figure out a relatively "easy way" to do it. Got a lot of suggestions but many not worth the trouble for the expense involved. I think the simplist thing would be to tie in with the draper drive pulley. We shall see...Im not doing this so much for myself, but rather something that could be offered to my customers.
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Steve M C/IL
Orange Level Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Location: shelbyville IL Points: 691 |
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My 2 cents."Peeing in the wind".I've dreamt up many improvement ideas over the years because it would be "neat" but the reality was always the same.To what end?Don't want to spend any money to do it right but difficult to figure out anything less.Bottom line is,it worked well enough "back in the day".If your not moving,the reel doesn't need to either.Don't misunderstand,I've been where you are but sometimes it just ain't worth it.When my dad went from a 60 to a 90 I thought that continuous reel was cool but I don't know that it made a real difference.When I had my A2 I thought a variable reel would be great!Have it on my F2 and it's just okay.Seldom need to use it. Anyway,take a chill pill and relax.Life is too short to sweat the small stuff.
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TomYaz
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: PA Points: 10319 |
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Chas,
Dont want to drive anything off the ground...trying to get away from that so that I can always have the reel spinning regardless if ground wheel turning. The variable part is a nice to have; not a need to have.
Thanks anyway!
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CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22810 |
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Tom, you could very easily make a variable speed drive for the reel out of the variable sheaves from a Ranch King or MTD lawn mower. Drive off the ground wheel and add the variable sheave in between driver and driven just like on the lawn mower. Run a control rod to within reach of the tractor seat. All you would need to add would be a notched plate to hold position or a friction set up to hold position. Charlie
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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ALinIL
Orange Level Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Frankfort, IL Points: 316 |
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Tom - I assume you are looking to be able to independently adjust reel speed. Does this need to be done from the tractor seat? If reel speed needs to only be adjusted from the combine, then why not put a modified salisbury clutch(Comet) setup on and run from the draper drive. This is the clutch type used on minibikes. - AL
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JohnThomas
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Traverse City Points: 332 |
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Because that would be too easy!!! Was looking at a hydraulic
solution as faster way to get there and provide variable speed option
Mount a step pulley..3 speeds? |
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Life is short...Make haste to be kind
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Gerald J.
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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Ground drive as it came from the factory has some advantage automatiically varying as your ground speed varies. Seems to me that keeping the reel running with very slow forward or no motion just gives the grain reason to drop to the ground when tapped or urged by the reel towards the sickle, but when it can't move.
Gerald J. |
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TomYaz
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: PA Points: 10319 |
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Nope not really determied to drive it w/hydraulics, just determined to drive it with something besides the wheel..But if the combine isnt moving, wouldnt that pump not be working? If so, I'm no better off. Edited by TomYaz - 05 Nov 2010 at 12:42pm |
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John (C-IL)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Illinois Points: 1654 |
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Here's my 2 cents worth.
If you are determined to hydraulic drive the reel, why not ground drive a poitive displacement pump and run your reel motor with that? I'm not good enough with hydraulics to tell you what pump/motor combination will work, but it will work.
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TomYaz
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: PA Points: 10319 |
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Well if correct, that changes things...and I was just looking at smugglers suggestion:
Problem is, dont think I can get 75 AMP out of the slow running alternator to power this... and 40 RPM may be too fast...
*sigh* never easy is it?
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Gerald J.
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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Either of those motors would come close to working. Yes, you divide inch pounds by 12 to get foot pounds. 50 inch pounds is about how hard you can turn a screwdriver handle. 4 foot pounds.
You can protect a motor from over pressure with a pressure relief valve in parallel with the motor. I'm sure surplus center sells one suitable for that purpose. In their 2007 catalog which is the first one I found this week, look at 9-6597, 9-4127, 9-1556, 9-7375 or 9-4492 or search for relief valve. For that matter, all open center control valves unclude a pressure relief valve. Not having run a combine, I'm not sure of the reel speed, but I'd think like my mower conditioner you'd want the peripheral speed to be just a hair faster than the ground speed so as to push the crop into the sickle and drop it on the belt top first. ON my PT-10 mower conditioner there's a bar above the sickle and in front of the reel that leans the crop away from the sickle so the reel flips it up to the conditioner rolls cut butt first so it goes through best. And you want that a little bit faster than ground speed to keep from there being a build up of crop over the sickle. You don't want the reel swatting the crop to knock seed off the straw, that's the job of the innards of the combine where that flying seed gets caught. So you probably harvest at something like 3 mph and the reel is 5 feet in diameter. Makes it 15.7 feet circumference. 3 mph is 15,840 feet per hour, 264 feet per minute, 16.8 RPM. So you probably want about 20 rpm. 50 rpm is good for feeding the birds, not putting crop in the hopper. Gerald J. |
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smuggler
Silver Level Joined: 23 Dec 2009 Location: western ny Points: 325 |
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Tom surplus center has 12volt motors , item number 5-1719 or 5-1720. 40 rpms , hp rateing is pretty low tho the 5-1720 is rated at 1.2 hp 1890 in lbs of torque,
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TomYaz
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: PA Points: 10319 |
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Russ (and Roddo)
Thanks for the info. Well, sounds like for a WD45 its going to be more BS than I want. I suppose on a modern hydraulic system this would be a slam dunk. I want to develop something simple and realtively cheap and incorporate on a rebuild. Maybe if/when I get a modern tractor I can revisit this and develop something for modern hydraulic systems. Till then I am going to go with a extra pulley/belt get up.
Edited by TomYaz - 05 Nov 2010 at 10:04am |
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Russ-neia
Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NE Iowa Points: 489 |
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Several problems with using WD hydraulic system which have been mentioned. Another would be the need for a radiator to dissipate heat as the tractor was not designed for continuous flow of oil.
I suggest you look into the self-contained system mounted on the combine like Kev mentioned. If you can, go look at a grain header for a Gleaner conventional (and some rotary) combine from the late 70's through early 90's. They had a chain driven pump, reservoir, and motor all mounted on the header. Some of these heads are obsolete or trashed, but still have good hydraulic systems. Best of all, there is an electric control hooked to the pump so you can vary the speed with a rocker switch. JimIA has about 4 of these heads sitting in the weeds out back. He could probably help you out.
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The innovators offer what others will imitate.
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Roddo
Orange Level Joined: 16 Jul 2010 Location: Brant, Ontario Points: 466 |
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Do you intend to have the reel driven by the motor directly or via a chain or belt? If you connected a gear reduction to a motor you would increase its torque and decrease its RPMs. That means that a smaller motor could do the job. |
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TomYaz
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: PA Points: 10319 |
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Yes I would plumb a line back to the hydraulic tank. There is a hyd tank drain plug if I am not mistaken. Would use that as my return port.
Electric would be an option too...but try finding a 12v DC motor that runs at 50 or under RPM's.. I suspect I would need additional hardware to do it his way....I dont want to get too complicated here. Perhaps just adding a belt from the draper drive would work.
Here is a electric motor I found:
Not enough torque it appears... Edited by TomYaz - 05 Nov 2010 at 9:25am |
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TomYaz
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: PA Points: 10319 |
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My remote valve has a shutoff. Set desired header height, shut the valve closed. Then I can adjust hydraulic power to get the reel motor at the desired speed without affecting the header height. Of course if I need to change the header height, I would have to stop operations, open that remote valve and adjust height accordingly.
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Dave Richards (WV)
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Fairmont, WV Points: 877 |
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Tom, I may have missed the solution here somewhere. The onboard Hydraulic system on the 45 is one way out and gravity push back through the same line. For a motor you need constant out and constant back. Two lines. i have seen this done with a makeshift return line to the hydraulic filler port. If you are just looking for independent reel rotation, go electric from the tractor's battery system.
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CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22810 |
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How would you use the remote on the lift for the combine if you are going to use it for the reel? You could use a diverter valve, but you would have one or the other working. If the only time you need the lift was on the end of the field it might not be a problem. Set your head height, divert to the reel and go through the field. When you get to the end, switch back to the remote and the reel would stop, and raise the head.
If RPM's don't work out right , you could always reduce the reel speed from the motor by use of a belt and pulleys. Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 05 Nov 2010 at 8:35am |
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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wdmstr
Bronze Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: ne mo Points: 13 |
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when hooket to wd45
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BILL
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wdmstr
Bronze Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: ne mo Points: 13 |
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you want to very careful as the housing can break and hurt anyone close by btdt |
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BILL
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TomYaz
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: PA Points: 10319 |
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Because that would be too easy!!! Was looking at a hydraulic solution as faster way to get there and provide variable speed option...but Im afraid I cant get enough torque needed at such a low RPM......So I may do what you say...
So another question....What is a good RPM speed for a 60/66 Reel. Im guessing 50RPM? But that may be too fast...
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JohnThomas
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Traverse City Points: 332 |
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Why not just put a Vee pulley & belt to the reel on the end of another drive pulley on combine? Why need a hyd pump?
Dad put one on the end of the cylinder I'm thinking or one very near it. But that was back in the 40's. Dunno which combine it was but it WAS an Allis. |
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Life is short...Make haste to be kind
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TomYaz
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: PA Points: 10319 |
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Bah! the torque is listed as inch pounds..can I divide by 12 to get foot pounds?
Double Bah! Dont think these will work....not enough foot pounds when slowing down the RPMs.....
Edited by TomYaz - 05 Nov 2010 at 7:23am |
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TomYaz
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: PA Points: 10319 |
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Creative but Rube Goldbergish!! LOL! Of course the untrained eye might say that about the whole combine!
Yeah if I can avoid a pump, all the better. Dont ever forsee having a tractor without a pump
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TomYaz
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: PA Points: 10319 |
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Thanks Guys for the education...
Now as a Test to see if I understood any of this; would this be better:
On this one I would have to be careful about the PSI....
This one might be better...can handle higher PSI:
Edited by TomYaz - 05 Nov 2010 at 7:05am |
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Gerald J.
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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No, you read it wrong.
.95 gal /1000 rpm so at 100 rpm it would need .095 gal/min. 35 inch pounds at 1000 psi so it would have a torque of 70 inch pounds or 6 foot pounds at 2000 psi. Just about what a strong hand can turn a screwdriver handle. I don't think that's enough to overcome friction or inertia to start a reel. You really need something in a motor with ten times the displacement, say 2.5 cubic inches that would run 100 rpm at about 1 gpm, and would produce 700 inch pounds or 60 foot pounds at 1000 psi. Maybe a compromise 1.5 cubic inches, so to run 100 rpm at 0.6 gpm and produce 420 inch pounds or 35 foot pounds torque at 1000 psi. Gerald J. |
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D-17_Dave
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mocksville NC Points: 990 |
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The speed of a hydraulic motor is determined by the flow from the pump=GPM divided by the displacement of the motor=cubic inches. There are tons of displacement variations. The larger the displacement, the slower the rpm. But, the larger the displacement the more torque output the motor has. The key to all this is you build little to no pressure until you load the hydraulic circut and build back pressure against the applied load. This can be done up to near the max pump output pressure. Now then, the variables are for every HP you put into the oil there must be a HP drawn out or the power turns to heat. Since there is no 100 percent hydraulic circuts known to man they build heat fast under a lot of pressure. Just some things to understand.
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Dave in il
Orange Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Manville Il Points: 1748 |
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Well I said I'm no AllCrop expert. LOL! I wasn't aware of the ground driven reel on the older machines.
I think Kev is on the right track, you could run the pump off of one of the combines drives with a belt or chain, use a resivor like an old air tank from a semi and drive the real with a small hyd motor everything would be self contained on the machine.
You could run it with a tractor with no hydraulics like a WC.
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