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Hydraulic fluid into transmission |
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Freewheeling ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Nov 2017 Location: Wisconsin Points: 152 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 05 Nov 2017 at 3:19pm |
My hydraulic cylinders were leaking so I've been adding fluid periodically. When I checked the transmission, a lot of fluid flowed out of the filler and appears to be where the hydraulic fluid was going. I use universal hydraulic fluid in the hydraulics and 85-140 in the trans & differential. There is no gear lube in the hydraulic fluid. Since I see where some are using only universal fluid in the trans and differential I assume it hasn't caused a problem being mixed in with the gear lube. What's the point of failure and how big a job is it to fix? Thanks.
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Freewheeling ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Nov 2017 Location: Wisconsin Points: 152 |
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Tractor is a WD
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Gary(VA) ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Troutville, VA Points: 337 |
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There is a seal between the hydraulic reservoir and hand clutch that needs to be replaced. Tractor needs to be split in three sections to get the shaft out and change seal. You may want to change any other leaking seals in pto and hydraulic pump/valve while its apart.
It's not that hard if you have proper setup to split. Edited by Gary(VA) - 05 Nov 2017 at 4:03pm |
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Freewheeling ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Nov 2017 Location: Wisconsin Points: 152 |
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Thanks. What's the proper setup?
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Stan R ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Location: MA Points: 969 |
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(heated) garage (with concrete floor to roll jack, tractor), floor jack, chain fall, wood blocking, tools (wrenches) and a helper
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Freewheeling ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Nov 2017 Location: Wisconsin Points: 152 |
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I've split my C before so I kinda know the drill.. I assume it's best to work from front to back?
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Gary(VA) ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Troutville, VA Points: 337 |
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I unbolted the transmission from the center section(torque tube) and rolled it back away. Then used engine lift to remove center section from front. If you send me your email I might have some photos saved I can email you.
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Freewheeling ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Nov 2017 Location: Wisconsin Points: 152 |
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Bill Long ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bel Air, MD Points: 4556 |
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That was a common problem with the early WD tractors. We replaced seals and it seemed to work but the real solution came later when the seal was replaced with a double seal. One basically facing each way. That seal did the job. No problems after that.
I know you have better equipment today but we used the level floor with a good floor jack to raise and move in the hydraulic housing. Put waxed paper on the shaft end to save the seal to the clutch Course that was almost 70 years ago. I know you have better equipment today. Might try Sandy Lake and see if they have the proper seal Good Luck! Bill Long |
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Freewheeling ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Nov 2017 Location: Wisconsin Points: 152 |
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Thanks Bill. I'm going to be using the same kind of equipment you used. Old school all the way..
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southwindson ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 02 Nov 2017 Location: Kansas Points: 24 |
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Can this happen on other models as well?
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Bill Long ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bel Air, MD Points: 4556 |
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After the double seal there was no problem with the WD's. Course the WD-45 had the double seal too. As to other units I really don't think so. At least the models I sold - up to the early D Series (D-10 - D-17) The configuration of the housings was different at that time. Someone will have to chime in with experience on AC models afteer 1962. Good Luck! Bill Long
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