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How to remove Gleaner L3 clean grain elevator boot

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CrestonM View Drop Down
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    Posted: 22 May 2017 at 7:14pm
This is about the clean grain auger that runs under the shoe. I'm pretty sure it's bent, as when you turn the shaft, it scraped along part of the trough. Also, if you shake the auger side to side, it will bang against the trough. However, rotate the shaft 1/4 turn and it will no longer hit. That's why I think it may be bent.

I've got everything about tore apart to get the shaft out, but I'm about 1/4" away from getting the boot at the bottom of the clean grain elevator off. How do you remove that? I unbolted all the bolts that hold the boot on the elevator and tried to tilt the boot forward, but I'm still having issues getting it off. Any advice appreciated, as I'd like to get everything figured out tomorrow. Thanks!

Edited by CrestonM - 22 May 2017 at 7:44pm
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2017 at 9:14pm
Use a little more force.    MACK
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2017 at 9:19pm
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

Use a little more force.    MACK

We've tried prying, bending, hitting the edges with a punch, etc, and we have the right side almost low enough to clear the elevator housing, but the left has barely moved, being on that tube.
Even so, once it clears the elevator, the wood divider still sticks down another couple inches, so that's clearly not going to work.
Do I need to loosen something at the top of the elevator and try to push up on it some, or what?
Thanks!

I'm thinking a worthwhile farmer mod would be to make a removeable plate on the right side of the boot that's a bit bigger than the auger's diameter...save a lot of headache.

Edited by CrestonM - 22 May 2017 at 9:26pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2017 at 9:44pm
I am thinking you there is a slot on the off side. You take the bear cage off and turn the fliting out the slot,just enough to make room. Then the boot can be droped down. 

It is over 30 years ago and a MH as well. So I could wrong this one time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 7:19am
Drill out the rivets on the outer wall and remove it instead of the whole boot. Replace rivets with 1/4" bolts and lock nuts.
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 8:10am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:


Drill out the rivets on the outer wall and remove it instead of the whole boot. Replace rivets with 1/4" bolts and lock nuts.

Duh! Thanks Doc! I feel stupid now lol
I'll run outside and take a look, and if I still have trouble, I'll let you know!
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 2:02pm
Ok Doc, I got that off and the auger out. Now, I'm looking at the auger trying to figure out why the auger scrapes the forward side of the auger trough when you spin the auger quickly. You can turn it slow all day long with no problems, but when you give it a quick whirl with your hand, it makes a terrible banging noise. The shaft isn't broke or anything, and if it was bent, wouldn't it hit the trough no matter how fast or slow you turn it? I'm totally confused!
Granddad and I tried moving the right bearing housing up and to the rear, in hopes that would raise the auger up so it would no longer hit, but even moving it 1/4" didn't help at all.
Any advice now? Thanks!
Also, one side of the fighting all the way across the length of the auger, except for about 1' on each end is kinda eat up from where it's been banging the trough. There are some pretty large burrs there. And I know it hits the forward side of the trough because I can see the auger marks every few inches on the trough where the flighting hits it every revolution.

Edited by CrestonM - 23 May 2017 at 2:06pm
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 2:30pm
Roll the auger on a flat concrete surface and see if it's bent. (roll it fast and slow)
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 8:11pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:


Roll the auger on a flat concrete surface and see if it's bent. (roll it fast and slow)

Yep, we tried that. We couldn't see anything, so we put the shaft back in and spun it with a tri-square held against it. We could hear the shaft scraping, missing, and scraping over and over, so it has to be bent a tiny amount, it's just near impossible to see. Also, the faster you spin the shaft, the more wobble the shaft ends have. When you spin it fast in the combine, you can clearly see it's wobbling, but not when you turn it slow.

I'm not sure what to think...it's behaving kinda like a governor....when it turns slow, not much happens, but as it speeds up, the auger must bend out some to scrape the trough....
We tried moving the whole auger up to raise it further off the trough, and that didn't work. We tried grinding some off the flighting, and that didn't work. My uncles said heck with it, so we put everything back together. I still think it needs a new shaft. Bearings are good, btw.
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dans 7080 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 8:37pm
Centripical force will flex the auger just enough, even though it doesn't turn real fast. Had an F2 do the same thing. Still running the same auger with a new one waiting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leon B MO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 9:13pm
Creston, we had that shaft break two havests ago, just inboard of the chain. The shaft, flighting ass. is available through AGCO, and I rebuilt the boot myself. I don't remember having that much trouble getting the boot off but our shaft was broke. Don't feel like the lone ranger here, even the new ones have to be tended also. We had a main shaft bearing and housing explode last year, had to remove the return  just to get to it. At least its not 100 degrees for you, yet.
Good luck
Leon B MO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 9:22pm
Originally posted by Dans 7080 Dans 7080 wrote:

Centripical force will flex the auger just enough, even though it doesn't turn real fast.

That's what I'm thinking, although I don't know what's causing it to do that. It didn't do it prior to 2015 (the last year we used it)
I wondered....grain augers used for filling trucks/bins make a lot of racket when they run empty, until you get grain in them. I wonder if this would be the same way?
Even if that does quieten it down, it's obviously been eating on it for a while because it's peeling thin slivers of metal off the flighting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 9:25pm
Originally posted by Leon B MO Leon B MO wrote:

Creston, we had that shaft break two havests ago, just inboard of the chain. The shaft, flighting ass. is available through AGCO, and I rebuilt the boot myself. I don't remember having that much trouble getting the boot off but our shaft was broke. Don't feel like the lone ranger here, even the new ones have to be tended also. We had a main shaft bearing and housing explode last year, had to remove the return  just to get to it. At least its not 100 degrees for you, yet.
Good luck
Leon B MO

Yep! It was 70 degrees today, and I'm glad it's not 100 yet!
I'm thinking a new shaft would fix the problem, but my uncles aren't ready to do that yet.

Could a heavy load on the auger cause this? One year it threw the chain driving the auger, and before we noticed it grain was spilling out of the inspection hole behind the fan, so there was quite a bit of grain on that auger then.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 11:00pm
next time you have the shaft out.put a brg on each end and set them on blocks.Then you will see how bad off center it really is.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2017 at 9:55pm
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:


next time you have the shaft out.put a brg on each end and set them on blocks.Then you will see how bad off center it really is.

We put it in the combine and took the sieves out to look straight down on it. Doesn't seem too far off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2017 at 11:10pm
Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:


Yep! It was 70 degrees today, and I'm glad it's not 100 yet!
I'm thinking a new shaft would fix the problem, but my uncles aren't ready to do that yet.

Could a heavy load on the auger cause this? One year it threw the chain driving the auger, and before we noticed it grain was spilling out of the inspection hole behind the fan, so there was quite a bit of grain on that auger then.


Rubbing is definitely not normal, I would say its tweaked.

Have you verified proper slip clutch operation?

I am afraid the clutch has essentially been bypassed by overtightening, and rather than slip, it threw the chain. Not after twisting the auger slightly.

If a new one is out of budget, I would call and see what Mike's Equipment, Buhler KS has for good used.

make sure and inspect your bin fill auger, if its wore out it puts added stress on the system.


Edited by GM Guy - 24 May 2017 at 11:14pm
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 10:12am
Originally posted by GM Guy GM Guy wrote:

Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:


Yep! It was 70 degrees today, and I'm glad it's not 100 yet!
I'm thinking a new shaft would fix the problem, but my uncles aren't ready to do that yet.

Could a heavy load on the auger cause this? One year it threw the chain driving the auger, and before we noticed it grain was spilling out of the inspection hole behind the fan, so there was quite a bit of grain on that auger then.



Rubbing is definitely not normal, I would say its tweaked.

Have you verified proper slip clutch operation?

I am afraid the clutch has essentially been bypassed by overtightening, and rather than slip, it threw the chain. Not after twisting the auger slightly.

If a new one is out of budget, I would call and see what Mike's Equipment, Buhler KS has for good used.

make sure and inspect your bin fill auger, if its wore out it puts added stress on the system.



Bingo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 9:01pm
Is the tube bent just a little? The auger could run straight and true and only rub on one spot as the flight passes that spot. Normally if the tube was bent, it would make noise all the time, but if it is just slightly distorted and the shaft flexes with higher rpm, it could rub at higher speed and not at a slow speed.
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