Hitch Size

We drilled out the draw bars and old wagon hitches to a 1" hole. Got tired of picking up a hitch pin only to find out it was to large.

Bolt a plate to Drawbars with a hole just behind Drawbars big enough for your hitch ball.    MACK

Thanks for the quick reply's here is a picture of my Wd45.

Both my Wd45s have 1" draw bar holes. One came that way. The other was worn so much that it took a few minutes with a die grinder to finish rounding it out s I could put a hitch ball on it. Even my C had a 1" hole in the SAE extension. No reason you couldnt dril it to 1". When you buy a convert a ball make sure you get the 1" shank one the 3/4" shank one can't except a 2 5/16" ball. I have trailers with all three size hitches and you can't beat the convert a ball for convenience.


Edited by Dakota Dave - 20 Nov 2017 at 10:21pm

If you have a 3pt then buy or build a 3pt receiver. Then you can pull 1 7/8, 2, 2 5/16, pin on, or pintle. Very handy piece

I bought a couple of these 8" long , 2" receivers for $8 each. They're designed to accept any 2" sleeve/ball combo.
I welded one onto my 'carryall' for my D-14s as I never,ever use the orignal drawbars. I have several sleeve/ball combos as well as  a 'blank '. That I use as a drawbar.
The other I welded into a 'slide on' adapter that I slide onto the left fork of my A-C forklift. It normally has a 2" ball in it. GREAT for moving trailers around here, well, once you get the hang of the 'offset' of the trailer from forklift center !

A 'drawbar' version of my forklift receiver would be easy to make, bolt on and  IDEAL for pulling that 'free trailer' outta the bush.....Sometimes simple tools make life easy , well easier....
I'd get a piece of C-channel that slide-fits over the drawbar, bore hole to attach, weld a spacer bar on top( to clear bolt head), then weld 8" receiver to that. Dang I could have made one in the time it took me to type all this....

Naw, them eccentrics are fine!


If you ever need a replacement I have 8 for sale, plus two centers if one should get messed up! 



When you tighten them, start with the one that is at the lowest.then the next two lowest and then the top one.  At least that's how I did mine and they seem to work fine!  I have a 1/2" breaker bar that is about 2 1/2' long,  works great.


Edited by john(MI) - 21 Nov 2017 at 9:22am

It’s just welded to the frame rail

This setup and combination of receivers works great on my 190XP, WD 35/45, and the 'G'. It only takes a few moments to switch from one to the other. The front mount, on the WD, has to be switched to the G by moving the bolt-on backer plate. Inexpensive to make and flexible. Sorry if the sizing is too big. Ross

Ross D. I like your setup and I might have to build that in the future but I think for now we’re going to cut the shank off of a 2 5/16” ball and weld a bolt on that will fit the drawbar.

Not much damage could have happened I don't think.  But like I said, it puts TOO much stress on the lock and you will probably shear it off.  Could also swing back and forth and the eccentrics could get really stuck on the rails.  I've never seen it happen, but a rail could break off.
WORST thing is the sway of the tires COULD THROW YOU OFF the tractor and under it.  That HAS HAPPENED.

It's a good practice to once a year take the eccentrics loose and move the rims and then put them back again, starting at the bottom and work toward the top.  That way when you really HAVE to move them, it's pretty easy.  Otherwise they WILL rust in place!!  I KNOW!!

I second what Ted said about bolting a receiver to the drawbar . Buy an inexpensive one and drill holes to match the ones in the drawbar . I did one and it works well for pulling trailers around .