| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
psheridan 
Bronze Level
Joined: 10 Apr 2016
Location: Omaha, Nebraska
Points: 104
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: help with my WC unstyled
Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 9:59am |
I am in the act of tearing down my 37 WC I want to clean up, sandblast and restore this tractor I would like to remove the engine and transmission how do I go about this feat can I remove the whole engine, transmission in one piece? any tips on this from folks that have restored a WC many thanks Paul
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
DaveKamp
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 6036
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 11:44am |
|
Hi Paul! Welcome to the group!
If I were you, the first thing I'd do was get my hands on a service manual- probably search and download one... any WC manual would be a really good start.
Next... if you're doing a restoration, you'll need to identify your goal, because there are some aspects that determine the most sensible method. Do you plan to dismantle it down to every last bolt, or just clean it up, sandblast, and repaint?
Does it have engine, transmission,clutch, or final drive problems? Does it have leaks, etc?
You can pull the whole engine and trans as one piece, or pull them separately... you could support it in pieces, and remove the side rails to get good access... you could put it on stands and roll the rearend out first... there's any number of ways to pull it apart... each with advantages, disadvantages, and risks.
Look at how the other guys have done it- there's quite a few pictures in the threads here.
|
|
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
|
|
psheridan
Bronze Level
Joined: 10 Apr 2016
Location: Omaha, Nebraska
Points: 104
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 2:55pm |
Dave Great reply My goal is to clean it up, remove all grease, paint and then repaint not having researched the site at all yet, I liked the idea of removing the side rails, but I had no idea it that could happen without a disaster I will start with a manual and then search the site for ideas I have a great shop, but not a overhead winch to support and remove parts this is a great site Paul
|
|
B26240
Orange Level
Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
Points: 3865
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 4:09pm |
|
I would first remove engine then loosen all frame rail bolts including two of the big bolts holding one of the rails to the rear end. Next remove front pedestal then the transmission,cultivator lift and the frame rail that you loosened the bolts that hold it to the rearend. At this point all you will have left is the rear end with one frame rail bolted to it. Expect to break off one or two bolts usually the ones that go into the steering pedestal, most of us have been there and done that. HTH Mark
|
|
KenBWisc
Orange Level
Joined: 15 Sep 2009
Location: Fall Creek, WI
Points: 1184
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 4:24pm |
|
The second question to answer is; "How much do I want to spend?" A complete restoration is very expensive! A partial not so much. If you send an engine out for a complete overhaul you can have a $2500 to 3000 bill. Already more than the tractor is worth. I did a complete, no bolt left unturned, restoration on my '34 with labor paid only on the engine overhaul and have $7,000 invested. Even with a "family heirloom" it's a hard pill to swallow for a cheap old fart like me!
|
|
'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
|
|
psheridan
Bronze Level
Joined: 10 Apr 2016
Location: Omaha, Nebraska
Points: 104
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 4:38pm |
Yes, there is no doubt that I would like to keep the dollars down This is a good straight tractor, sheet metal , radiator, and runs good I want to put her back on steel, and do a good job, one that I can be very proud of, yet not bust the bank My grandfather started by selling Model E, 2035s, then sold many WCs, taking horses in for trade. we turned the dealership back to Allis in the early 50s, then went to selling Massey , then farming in the 60s I have volumes of photographs of early Allis dealership in my home town of Sutton Nebraska. Is there a photo archive site that I can post photos? Paul
|
|
Gerald J.
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Hamilton Co, IA
Points: 5636
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Oct 2016 at 5:23pm |
|
You can post photos easily on this forum, just use the expanded post editor that comes up from the upper right arrow above the Quick Reply window. Please set your picture size to 480 high and 640 wide and make sure they are rotated for us PC users.
I have a WC shop manual that I downloaded from somewhere about 3 years ago. Its in 9 sections all but the first section are nearly 10 MB each so difficult to send as e-mail attachments. I suppose I could put them up on my server or mail a CD or return a thumb drive with them. It looks like its for a styled WC, it also covers WF and RC.
There are many vendors of manuals on line, but avoid the I&T manual. It expects you to have a degree in tractor mechanics and has just a few hints for a particular tractor. its not worth the paper its printed on.
Gerald J.
|
|
DaveKamp
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 6036
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 5:44pm |
|
One other thing that he MIGHT be able to do... I dunno, but others chime in...
What's the chances he could take off the tin, and unbolt just ONE frame rail, pressure wash, scrape, clean, blast, scrub, etc., then prime one side good, then put the rail back on, and repeat on the other side, and never dismount the engine, pedestal, or rear end?
It can be done on a WD (I did it with mine), and the nice thing is, it's still fairly easy to roll out into the driveway for a kiss from the pressure washer and air hose....
The WC differs from the WD, in that the WD engine, transmission, and transaxle castings are all bolted together. the WC has a section between the trans and axle that are not rigid...
|
|
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
|
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21529
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 7:11pm |
|
Put a jack under the flat spot of the clutch bell housing towards the side rail you want to remove. In other words, jack a few inches off center to hold it up. Sheet metal and radiator removed, yes.
|
|
psheridan
Bronze Level
Joined: 10 Apr 2016
Location: Omaha, Nebraska
Points: 104
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 7:45pm |
Boy, that is a great idea it would allow me to get her clean, and prep it nicely I feel like the engine needs to be propped up in this process Thanks a ton (literally) Paul
|
|
TomMN
Orange Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elbow Lake, MN
Points: 858
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 8:43pm |
I have three WC manuals on my web site you can copy what you need. They are toward the bottom of the front page: http://allis01.com/The mouse chewed manual smells a whole lot better when viewed on the Internet.
|
|
