HD6EP

Some HD6EP pics for warren Lucas.

Might as well add 2 more to complete the line up of models

Final drive seal leaking cant find the seal kits !
Part number for the seal kit are 1973 HD6EP part# 70096278 early are part# 096278 HD6 20 spline shaft 5 - 13/16" ID  and earlier part # 096158 They are all the same seal all the way up in the the 1974 model Fiat Allis built them in the the Case dozer and some Fait Hitachi which where made into John Deere models. John at Tractorparts .com has ones for the smaller 6 spline 5" ID Part # 080954   and part # 073762 but nothing to fit the 20 spline which is the heavy duty spline the G7 bucket loader . I don't know if home headquarters  Fiat Allis in Brazil can help.

I tried a p/n search on google, found a complete 70096278 package for my 7G at Fresno Tractor last month, Fresno CA.  I do not know if they have another but worth a try.

Thanks! Any idea how much of job it is and how to pull the sprocket off of the spline ?
I just take out he grease fittings for the track adjusters push in the adjusters then block it up to pull off the tracks. The outer housing should pull off just by un bolting it. I might need to heat the sprocket nut up to get it to turn off then heat up the  sprocket hub housing.  Can I jack off of the side housing to push the sprocket off or will this damage the finial drive gears or will i need a puller.

DMiller wrote: I am fixing to do this very thing but on a 7G, it is a bit more complicated for my machine.  You will need to remove the entire truck frame for the track and I HIGHLY recommend a service manual as to how this all removes/reassembles.  The sprocket nut is torqued or is supposed to be torqued to 2000+ pounds, the spline is tapered and you want to pull sprocket from shaft not the shaft from the housing so set a puller accordingly.   This is what my replacement parts look like:   My speocket ran loose with the nut completely off, the splines are worn too far to tighten the sprocket where it will not shift so I am changing the assembly.

 Note to self: check my sprocket nuts tomorrow. lol

I found a manual that's on line for HD5 which is the same procedure as the HD6
http://www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/HD5FINALDRIVESERVICE.pdf

They say you need to remove sprocket spindle to service the seal. You can't just remove the sprocket and leave the spindle in place and remove the seal over the spindle and re install the seal back over the spindle and seat in place with hard rubber hammer the install the sprocket !   

I paid 400.00 for 2 seals. It seems like a lot of work but this dozer has only 200 hours on it and it basically new ! I woulld like to level some dirt while it in one peace. Do you think that the seals would close up if I moved it around and used it. The original owner bought it from  Marshall Machinery new and was going to build a house on top of a hill he built the road and a Idler grease seal blew out and he just parked it. I was looking at his backhoe that he was selling and put money down on it to and while I was checking it out the this Dozer was park with moss and weeds growing out of it and timber rattlers had shed their  skins all over it. He was going to send it to the scrap yard and I jump in transferring my deposit towards the Allis Chalmers  and had it landoll to my home. I have serviced the hole machine and started to sand blast it down to bare metal. I bought a Carco Model E winch for with controls any tips on operation of this. I looking for a set of used Limb Risers 3" OD for it. I'm planning to build a 10 acre pond, few roads, and some logging.  The twin disk hydro trans is vary power full and I not sure how to steer it.  I has the steering lever and foot brakes and a decelerator petal. Do you pull the steering levers and hit the breaks to turn it or just use the breaks. It has a shuttle shift High and low . I not to familiar with the operation of HD6EP Dozer any Ideas what I should do and should not do tips on what operation I should do on cutting, running on a slope, and final grade . Their on one around my parts that has ever run a power shift Allis !

You might want to find a local cat operator (any make of crawler) to come and show you the ropes. It will make you a better operator and more efficient and help prolong the life of your machine.

Hi Merv

here it is; I hope !   pic taken this year after a engine job and a repaint

Good grief, are we working on a 2012 problem or a present problem? Anyway good suggestions I think. Now, if it is leaking because it has sat and the seals have hardened or dried, put a pint of brake fluid per two gallons of oil in whatever is leaking. Trans. final drive, or what have you. It will make seals swell and quit leaking a lot of times. I found out accidentaly when I put brake fluid in my PS and the slow leak stopped. Have since used it in auto. trans. Worked there too. I won't guarantee it's a permanent fix but it doesn't cost that much to try.